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Technical ***May 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Great Shop Weather***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 1, 2021.

  1. Daniel,
    yes, that is a G28 no doubt. The oiling system has a steel pipe under the lifter floor next to the cam.
    If you drop the pan you will see it. If I recall correctly, the exterior plug below the side cover is the port that feeds the internal pipe. Must remove pump to see behind it. There should be another plug inside on a vertical port directly below the pipe.
    John
     
    97, barrnone50, TWSTR and 2 others like this.
  2. TWSTR
    Joined: Mar 25, 2016
    Posts: 29

    TWSTR

    John, thank you so much for your input.
    I checked my old pictures and found the pipe you're talking about. So far so good.

    Today I tried to figure out if the oil pump feed the pipe/cam/crank correctly. I removed the distributor cap, spark plugs and pulled the starter several times. While I was doing that I filmed the valve train. But after all no oil flow was visible.

    The engine was build by a professional engine shop some months ago. They mounted a high volume pump from Bill Stipes. And made a short test run.

    My worry - the G28 oil pump got a recess on the top. I'm wondering if the shop machined these recess in the high volume pump?

    Is there any chance to check the oiling system without dropping the pan? The G28 pan is huge and I'm not able to drop w/o removing the wishbone...

    Shouldn't I see some kind of oilflow around the valve lifter after pulling the starter 3 or 4 times in a row?

    I'll try to attache some more pictures for clarification and entertainment :)

    IMG_20210327_103048.jpeg

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. TWSTR
    Joined: Mar 25, 2016
    Posts: 29

    TWSTR

  4. Daniel,
    I don't think you will see any oil up in the galley just from a little cranking.
    If I remember correctly, the lifters are hollow on the cam side. This allows for the natural pumping action to push oil up to the top of the lifter, there should be a small hole in the side of the lifter exposed when the valve opened.
    That may be a problem since the lifters have been changed to adjustable.

    You may be able to see a relief cut in the top of the pump housing if you take the plug out of the side of the block.


    John
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  5. The front engine mount was made by Max
     
  6. TWSTR
    Joined: Mar 25, 2016
    Posts: 29

    TWSTR

    New day - new observations.

    Tried to find out if there's a relief or not without dropping the pan.

    Managed to light up my borescope and unscrewed the pump holding screw on the side of the block. After many tries I made some pictures. Hopefully you can see the billet pump housing and the brass "triangle".

    I couldn't see if there's an relief or not.
    So I tried to poke with some 90 degree bend wire. On top and bottom I was able do insert the wire completely ~5/16" (green area) . On the left and right side was impossible (red area).

    So what is the conclusion now? Am I good? Got my engine oil pressure? Should I fire it up for running in? Questions over Questions IMG_20210529_212503.jpeg IMG_20210529_120932.jpeg IMG_20210529_212548.jpeg

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. Finally starting 8745CEB3-4B11-4628-BB47-52B829EA634F.jpeg
     
  8. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 399

    Jiminy
    Member

  9. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 658

    railcarmover

    I 20210529_111157.jpg

    Sport Coupe? Yeah,do one,so you can say you did one...dont mind if they give you that look..just tell them stupid is as stupid does..
     
    Jet96 and Old Dawg like this.
  10. Thanks Jiminy
    I posted from fone sideways, as I drive
     
  11. Daniel
    I was thinking about it today
    The real answer is to drop the pan and verify
    They may have drilled a hole on the back side of the pump to feed oil
    Can you ask the shop who put it together

    best of luck John
     
    Old Dawg and winduptoy like this.
  12. hardtimesainit
    Joined: Jan 24, 2009
    Posts: 603

    hardtimesainit
    Member

    My opinion.....
    If she has developed serious interest, make sure that you involve her in ALL aspects of the equipment she likes. Dont get too technical, without her knowing specs and how they compare with other makes of similar equipment!
    The more interest she shows, all the better.
    Maybe she will show interest in one style car than others. She may be interested in building her own car... with your knowledge and help !!
    Id encourage her interest asap.
     
    Jet96, Old Dawg, RCB1 and 1 other person like this.
  13. Barrelnose pickup
    Joined: Aug 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,316

    Barrelnose pickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    46889E3C-656F-45A8-85F5-60008D15DBBD.jpeg Would you banger guys call this terminal? I’ve read all about stitching as a repair, just not sure what you could get away with. #3 exhaust valve,, living in hope.
     
  14. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,024

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    I wouldn't automatically condemn the block. 70 years ago when every junk yard had a pile of worn out A and B engines you couldn't see over was a different story.

    I owned a commercial welding shop in the 90's and repaired quite a few more modern engines with a TIG rod from Rockmount that was fantastic. It was machinable and very easy to weld with, never had any cracking of the base metal alongside the weld bead and didn't require a lot of preheat. That was almost 30 years ago, so I'm sure there are even better products available now.

    I would find a good welding shop and get it repaired.
     
    Old Dawg and winduptoy like this.
  15. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 2,512

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Need to see how far it goes under the valve but it is doable....depending how it looks under the valve.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  16. guitarguy
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 555

    guitarguy
    Member

    Id be curious where it really begins and ends. Does it get into the cylinder? Hard to tell just looking, but it could.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  17. Barrelnose pickup
    Joined: Aug 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,316

    Barrelnose pickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the replies, I will go to my engine machine shop and see what they say.
    The block and caps plus big end Babbitt is in great condition, it has large inlet valves and a B crank fitted hence the concern .
    If it was a standard block it would not matter so much but with the work that was put into this makes it worth saving if possible.
    Just replacing the block isn’t an option.
     
  18. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 658

    railcarmover

    Put a seat on the valve and sleeve the cylinder..pin the crack..pretty common with B blocks
     
    winduptoy and Old Dawg like this.
  19. G_Don
    Joined: Feb 17, 2017
    Posts: 24

    G_Don

    Anyone know of anyone that fabricates an intake/exhaust for a 181 mercruiser 3.0L motor? I do not own a welder, nor can I adapt it to fit the outlet in my rental property. I heard offenhauser and clifford used to make them. Clifford still makes the 153.

    Can the 153 chevy ii intakes work on the mercruiser? I heard the ports are bigger on the mercruiser.

    Anyone holding onto an offenhauser or clifford intake for a 181? :rolleyes:
     
  20. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 399

    Jiminy
    Member

    You might want to ask in the 4 cylinder mercruiser-engined cars thread
    Jim
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  21. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 399

    Jiminy
    Member

  22. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 744

    Tribalmonkey
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Anyone recognize this head? Seems to have a raised stamped area that is different. I still can’t make out the letters/numbers. I think it may say “MADE IN USA”.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,199

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    not an expert in any way , but could be stock head
     
  24. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 744

    Tribalmonkey
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah. I don’t know. I have a few other Model A heads that I thought were stock and they don’t have that raised area.
    Wonder about the weird light green color.
     
  25. Here's something I've found.

    MF 1 1930s aftermarket head
    4 stud water pump
    Marked "MF 1", and "Made in USA" on top
    Compression Ratio N/A

    F1 MF 1930s aftermarket head
    4 stud water pump
    Marked "F1", "MF", and "Made in USA" on top
    4.2 :1

    A6050A 1940s aftermarket head
    4 stud water pump
    Marked "A6050A" and "Made in USA" on top
    4.2 :1

    F2 MF 1930s aftermarket head
    4 stud water pump
    Marked "F2", "MF", and "Made in USA" on top
    5.2 :1
     
  26. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 744

    Tribalmonkey
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Retson! I didn’t see any F2s or MFs but there is another tag.
     

    Attached Files:

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  27. Is there any marks underneath the waterpump area?
     
  28. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 744

    Tribalmonkey
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No. But once I started scrubbing a bit the paint wiped right off. Easier to see the the one tag now. 4-9-40
     

    Attached Files:

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  29. Tribalmonkey
    Joined: Feb 17, 2019
    Posts: 744

    Tribalmonkey
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There is also this stamp near the passenger firewall.
     

    Attached Files:

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  30. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,947

    97
    Member

    Welcome to Banger Meet , all sounds great to me.
    Sure it is , it is exactly the idea behind the Banger Meet. Everybody can learn from everybody else, in fact that was the aim of the whole WWW. There are diverse aims and opportunities here and every one of them is relevant.
     
    Jet96 and Dustyp489 like this.

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