SDRA Dragster For The Coast Build Thread

[Old28]

Dick, I don't see a problem on a SDRA car as long as it meets the 52" tread. I don't think there are any decent stock housings that will get you down to 52". It will be a stock rear end that has been narrowed, not a fabricated rear end. Big look and dollar difference.

What about it Tulsa guys?

I'll run you, just get to building!

[CrkInsp]

It's a lot easier and cheaper to just use wheels from a front wheel drive car.

[Old28]

CrkInsp -- I still do not think a 9" with those front wheels would bring it down to 52" tread, I may be wrong. What rims are you using for a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern that are 6" wide?

With the shop and machinery that "ThingyM" has it should only take a few hours and cost almost nothing.

Narrowing like they did it in the 30's/40's/50's to make it work.

[Joe Hamby]

Old 28, that tread width is measured to the centers of both tires, and is a minumum only, you can have them as much wider as you wish.

[Old28]

Joe Hamby -- Joe, I understand the measurement but as an example my Ford Mustang 8.8 rear I have mounted is 58 1/2" outside drum to outside drum. I just don't think putting FWD rims on will make my setup that much narrower than it is now (57" center/center on the tires). I want to step up to a Ford 9" during the year and want to narrow it so the end results is 52" tire center when done.

My question was is this within the rules? It is not a fabricated rear, only a narrowed one.

Again can anyone tell me what FWD rim they would use on a Ford 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern to get close to the 52" number?

[CrkInsp]

Old28 - SDRA rule #10 - Chassis. "Stock width rear ends preferred."
With that said, if you want to narrow it, go for it. Just keep in mind the 52" Tread.
Keep us up todate on your progress.

[Old28]

CrkInsp -- I think the key word is preferred and just keep it to 52" C/C tire rule. I've got an old 9" from a 52 Ford pickup that I would like to install down the road with the 292 motor.

Until then I will use my Ford 8.8 rear end with my mighty 194. A lot to be said for those "Little Dudes".

Can't seem to get an answer on what FWD rims will work with a normal Ford 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Is it a "Trade Secret"!

[Old28]

Well I got a few more things done the last couple of days. Most of the work was on Battery Box, Electric cut off switch, Volt meter, Required tail light. Today I completed plumbing the brake system and got them working.

Started work on the dash unit, hope to have it done tonight.

[Old28]

Well I got the dash cut out and notched for the steering quick connect. Switches, water temp & oil pressure gages mounted.

Today was the first time that I was able to get in the car and see how hard it is with the new front roll cage bar. I will say that with the dash, cowl cover and the new bars it was a little harder than before. Ain't that easy to get these old bones working again.

I will say that it sure felt good after 4 months recovery (still have a ways to go)just to sit in the car again. I feel good sitting in seat, the new front cage bar is a solid 3" from my helmet face front. I am a little tight in the leg/foot area and will have to redo the brake peddle and move it forward. I will be cutting another 1 1/2" off the dash bottom for a little more clearance.

Was able to get my measurements for the driveshaft and my shifter mount today, so I can start working on that stuff next week.

[Old6rodder]

I didn't hear a "vroom, vroom" from you, give the Governor a "vroom, vroom" ...... right now.
You better watch your ass, Mister.

With apologies to Mel Brooks.

That's looking great, Sir. You'll be "vroom, vroom"in' for real, pretty soon, by the looks of it.

[Old28]

I'll tell you there are a lot of small things that all take time before it's first "Burnout Video", but we just keep moving forward.

Dick, I do have a concern about the way the brakes are functioning. I've setup a lot of dragster & hot rods and never had this problem come up before. You can look at the past two picture sets to see the setup. The rear end is an 8.8 that I completely redid the backing plates, drums, shoes and all springs, new wheel cylinders. Master cylinder is new also.

I have no brake peddle free play, no more than 3/4". I went back in today and set the brake shoes to the smallest diameter hoping it would take a little more peddle to fully open the shoes. Tested them with no real change. I know that there is not a lot of extra Clarence with all new stuff inside, but I still think I should have more play.

What say guys?????

[Old6rodder]

Is your master cylinder's piston returning far enough to uncover the bleed-off vent inside? That'll keep a pedal hard. In other words, are you getting the (shoe springs driven) "fountain" inside on the back stroke?

[Old28]

Dick, I will check it again in the morning. I think I saw the return to the fluid cup, but I will check. When I did have the drums off I checked to make sure the wheel cylinder were opening and expanding the shoes and all was OK. Will test in AM. Thanks, Tom

[OBFB HA/GR]

Hey Tom, did you know that there is some "Aussie" magic in that there Chevy. Just ask Dick about it.

[bobw]

Tom, The Grape Car is coming along nicely. Glad you have healed enough to get in it.

Yeah, I'm having a bit of difficulty hauling my old bones out of my rig too. Maybe we can get the rules changed so we can put in a door???

[ThingyM]

Tom... Did you install a 2# residual valve on the master cylinder.. If the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders, You will need one probably.. JM2cW... BTW. Tom.. They didn't have a 9" in 52....Do you mean 62.???

[Old28]

bobw -- Bob a door would be real nice, but then NHRA would put us under door car rules and want a 12 piint cage! I better just loss that 50#'s I need to so we can stick with our 5 & 6 point cages. It's coming along, today I changed the brake peddle setup and cut an 1 1/2" off the bottom of the dash for a little more leg room. Working on securing the floor boards and getting the gas peddle mounted. Thanks for the good word.

ThingyM -- Dick, I used those residual valve on the 29 RPU I built but I have never used them on my race cars and they all had the master cylinder below the wheel cylinders. I spent 3 hrs today going through the system and I can not find any problem. If you pump the peddle and open the bleeders the master goes to the bottom like it should (lines are all full). Because all the brake system is new and I only have a total of about 80" total of line this may be how it is going to operate. I closed the shoes all the way down and then opened both 8 notches and the brakes stop the tires with no problem, just not much free peddle.

My daughter came up this weekend and brought the drive shaft, it had the trans yoke on it and it slides right into the glide, just need to shorten it to 13 1/8" C/C. If you want me to pickup that 300 motor from rocky, give him a call and make sure it is what you want as I may be in Fresno on April 8 for an antique action with Dixie and I will pick it up.

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by Old28

bobw -- Bob a door would be real nice, but then NHRA would put us under door car rules and want a 12 piint cage! I better just loss that 50#'s I need to so we can stick with our 5 & 6 point cages. It's coming along, today I changed the brake peddle setup and cut an 1 1/2" off the bottom of the dash for a little more leg room. Working on securing the floor boards and getting the gas peddle mounted. Thanks for the good word.

ThingyM -- Dick, I used those residual valve on the 29 RPU I built but I have never used them on my race cars and they all had the master cylinder below the wheel cylinders. I spent 3 hrs today going through the system and I can not find any problem. If you pump the peddle and open the bleeders the master goes to the bottom like it should (lines are all full). Because all the brake system is new and I only have a total of about 80" total of line this may be how it is going to operate. I closed the shoes all the way down and then opened both 8 notches and the brakes stop the tires with no problem, just not much free peddle.

My daughter came up this weekend and brought the drive shaft, it had the trans yoke on it and it slides right into the glide, just need to shorten it to 13 1/8" C/C. If you want me to pickup that 300 motor from rocky, give him a call and make sure it is what you want as I may be in Fresno on April 8 for an antique action with Dixie and I will pick it up.

Tom, one thing you could do to get more movement on the pedal would be go to a smaller diameter master cylinder. Either that or change the location of the pedal pivot to alter the ratio between the cylinder end and the pedal which would give you higher pressure at the master at lower pressure at the pedal end.

[Old28]

64 DODGE 440 -- Thanks Tom for the information. The master cylinder is a 7/8" unit of what brand I have no idea. I have always used 7/8" Wilwood master cylinder on all my race cars with very good luck and I may change to one after I get this car running. My peddle is about a 2 to 1 setup with 3" on the bottom and 6" on the top. I don't have a lot of room for changes so I think I will leave it as is until I can test it with the power train working.

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by Old28

64 DODGE 440 -- Thanks Tom for the information. The master cylinder is a 7/8" unit of what brand I have no idea. I have always used 7/8" Wilwood master cylinder on all my race cars with very good luck and I may change to one after I get this car running. My peddle is about a 2 to 1 setup with 3" on the bottom and 6" on the top. I don't have a lot of room for changes so I think I will leave it as is until I can test it with the power train working.

2 to 1 seems like very little leverage, 4 to 1 would probably help a bunch. Thinking our hand lever is probably closer to 6 to 1 or more. Within reason, the higher the ratio the better. Less pressure required and more feel at the pedal.