The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.
repowering my '27 T sedan with a 276 cu. in Merc flathead. The sedan previously had a 383 SBC.
Tall works for me.glad to see all the Ts out there. dr
Tall works for me too! I love the look of yours!
Really close to have this one wrapped up. Have 13 miles on it now and just sorting out a few bugs.
Looks FANTASTIC, Eric. JW
In 30 days of building, it is farther than this but the future owner doesn't want me to show it yet.
I like !! JW
Good move on the Flattie-for-SBC swap.
37 days of build time, nights and weekends, from March until the first drive tonight.
Just got mine to stand on its own feet.
Pushed it outside so I could walk round it and look at it from different angle. Difference between a '40s style Gow Job and a '50s style Hot Rod.
Anybody have reference pics of mounting model t fenders on a model a frame?
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Rolled mine out to sweep the garage. Decided to do an engine mock-up.
Sweet lookin Coupe!! JW
If you don't chop 'em (or at least not more than 1-inch) you gotta wear the right hat!
Absolutely. I've been looking for one.
Finished the T so I took it to the seaside...
Such a great looking car, @hotrodfil
When I got my car back from the wet media blasting episode, I was dismayed to see rust holes in the belt line area where these cars are prone to collect moisture and rust. Was thinking that when I try to weld them they were just going to grow exponentially. However, I managed to dodge that bullet. I was done within minutes but it got me to thinking how do you fix them with major rust? There is that reinforcing panel behind there so you really can't get to the backside. Checked out most of the 72 pages of this thread and found nothing specifically on this issue. Would really appreciate a metal bumping wizard to give some thoughts on this matter.
It is a tricky issue to deal with.
Obviously most anything can be fixed at a cost.
Fortunately those T's had quite thick sheet metal which was a blessing.
I see this beltline issue as one resulting from the roof failure since the roof at the rear dipped down in the corners and once there was a roof failure in that area the water seemed to be directed to those corners and provide moisture right in to that difficult to repair beltline area.
Mine was a lot like yours where it could be fixed by welding and since it was getting a full steel roof would probably never suffer from that issue again.
I figure if I was desperate enough to do a fix on serious beltline damage, I'd probably try pressing a beltline shape out and welding it in. The curve on those corners is not all that friendly...
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