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Strawshop Opendrive Banjo Conversion DIY

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tman, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. Just saw the lower price on your kits. To me that is damn fair and reasonable. I am lucky to have access to any tool and pals that are more talented than myself, plus I just HAD to try it my own! But, for most guys $250 is minor change and well worth it for a PROVEN engineered kit.
  2. Jeff, rest assured there will be more tech. Been MONTHS since I could post pics:eek: Was talking with Nosurf yesterday and we came upon a revelation. While I kinda hate naming cars (which seems to be in vogue right now) this one just fell into its name.....................The StrawshopSedan:D:rolleyes:
  3. For a traditional feel it could be "The Strawshop Special"
  4. gaspumpchas
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 175


    So, you don't need a bearing in the shortened tube?? Also make sure your radius rods are stout enough for when you do that 7 grand hole shot; that baby will be a twistin'!!

    Thanks for the info!!


    2 cool shorts standin' side by side.......
  5. The bones are getting a Torque arm like I did on the T. Plus, the bones I am running are unsplit. My thoughts are that helps em live longer as well. Just a theory. Car will sit higher like the Doane Spencer 32

    And no, no bearing needed tho I could add one easy enough. Open one up and look at the size of the bearing! Ford got us covered pretty well.
  6. Yeah but you know what? "Specials" were purpose built racecars. Anytime I see that tag on a street only car I cringe. I really do not like any name at all, but the car has spoken.;)
  7. hotrod-kustom
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 52


    Thanks its help. Now I can help my son. He take my old 46 banjo to his A ford
    It's good when he use my old parts.
  8. Like I said in your thread.....lots of others have done this as well! Use the search function and type in "open drive". Smokey is an old HAMBer that has a good one. As are others.
  9. 17dodgebros
    Joined: Oct 10, 2007
    Posts: 40


    how long did your torque tube end up being?
  10. Mine? 3 1/2"
  11. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,375


    Great info!

  12. 40Tudor
    Joined: Jan 1, 2002
    Posts: 634


    Just did this conversion and wanted to share some info on the yoke. I used one from a Dana 35 rear end. I think it's the same one Tman used (same seal). Spicer p/n 2-4-4601-1, Crown 83503318, Powertrain Industries 3104-02. Used on Wranglers and Cherokees from the mid 80s to mid 90s.
    Tman and Unkl Ian like this.
  13. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 1,098


    Might be interested in doing a open drive conversion on a Model A banjo. I admit not being very familiar with banjo rearends but understand the conversion is somewhat different. Anyone have any info or guidance?


  14. The model A has a one piece drive shaft I think. You will have to cut the shaft off and come up with some way to attach the yoke.
  15. Somebody was asking me about this the other day. Dug up the thread and kinda sad to see that many folks that replied on here have been gone for so long it shows no activity on their profiles. Oh well.
    continentaljohn likes this.
  16. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,375


    I recently completed the conversion following your guidance. Thank you for the information and for the write up, it was pretty easy to follow along.
    I used a yoke from a Dana 35 differential and the lip seal that matches the yoke. I had the splines machine out of the yoke so that the original 6 spline coupler would fit. I borrowed a friends lathe and machined the DOM tubing to fit the lip seal. In my case, the DOM tubing was a loose fit in the cut off part of the torque tube. So, to center it I bolted the torque tube to the banjo, put the lip seal (not all the way seated) in the piece of DOM, then inserted the yoke through the seal and onto the splines figuring that the lip seal would hold the DOM centered in the torque tube. I rotated everything a few times to make sure then tack welded the DOM to the torque tube. I pulled it all apart and welded it on the bench.
    I added a couple of 1/2" pipe plugs on either side of the torque tube so that I could access the pin.
    All in all it wasn't that hard of a conversion.

    Thanks again for the inspiration
    IMG_7250.JPEG IMG_7256.JPEG IMG_7260.JPEG IMG_7263.JPEG IMG_7264.JPEG IMG_7267.JPEG IMG_7269.JPEG IMG_7274.JPEG IMG_7342.JPEG IMG_7343.JPEG

    my build thread;

  17. Awesome!
    Sent from my SM-J337V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  18. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 192


    Noticed in the article on the Speedway Motors open drive kit they put a vent in the axle to stop a pressure build up. Should have read the thread right through, see that the vent has already been mentioned.
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
  19. Inked Monkey
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,822

    Inked Monkey

    I've had this thread saved for a long time. Getting ready to do this myself. Thanks for all the great info!
    Tman likes this.
  20. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,375


    Oops, I guess I'm not completely done. I haven't installed a vent in the axle tube yet.
    I don't know why I can't ever completely finish anything....ugh


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