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Technical Rust converter

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by johnfin, Sep 19, 2021.

  1. johnfin
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 94

    from auburndale

    Is there a good product that I can paint on my rusty car frame that will soak into the rust and convert it in to a permanent encapsulated surface that will never rust again. POR-15 is pretty darn expensive.
  2. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,990

    anthony myrick

    Never rust?
    I’ve had good luck with rustoleum rusty metal
    Clean, wire brush then apply.
    Paint after 24 hours.
    Rustmort is another good product
  3. I had good luck with Fertan rust converter
    brokenspoke likes this.
  4. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 2,003


    Yeah, but it works:)
    hammer-time and 5window like this.

  5. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,550


    I've heard of "Eastwood Rust Encapsulator", but have never used it. Has anyone here used this?
  6. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,915


    I spent the winter of 1987-1988 underneath my 1951 Ford club coupe with a cheap vacuum sandblaster. I then painted it with POR-15 and it still looks good now. It's not exposed to ultra-violet light (being under the car) so it will last (sunlight will destroy POR-15).

    Spend the money.
    alanp561 likes this.
  7. johnfin
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 94

    from auburndale

  8. Jones St.
    Joined: Feb 8, 2020
    Posts: 1,777

    Jones St.

    With what you said of POR-15, just strike off the list. Get a cartage mask regardless. The really strong, good, long lasting stuff is toxic. And of course, $$$$. Adjust your wallet/budget for the hit.
  9. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 638


    I tried the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on a new, but ever so slightly rusty frame. It was pretty goopy and left small ridges on the frame. I sanded them off where the frame would be visible. If the frame was really rusty the goopyness might not have been an issue.

    No report on how well it stopped rust, since my frame was not very rusty.

  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,915


    I'm still here and in relatively good health (considering my age).
    alanp561 likes this.
  11. I use the stuff my paint shop sells. Works fine. All of them are phosphoric acid and tannic acid based. Phosphoric acid converts rust to a hard iron phosphate coating and tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, also a more stable material. Paint it on, let it work for an hour or so and if the surface is blackish and hard like metal, you are good to go.
    pitman likes this.
  12. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 2,563

    oldiron 440

    I look at it this way, rusty frames and the bottom of the car are a pain in the butt to work on and I don't want to do it twice. I hold on to my junk forever so I sandblast and epoxy....
    Putting a coating, any coating over a pile of rust isn't doing a damn thing except make it look at a painted pile.
  13. arkywayne
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 4


    just saw a youtube test from" project farm" last week worth watching
    alanp561 likes this.
  14. bobd1976
    Joined: Sep 24, 2010
    Posts: 90

    from Illinois
    I used Chassis Saver on my last build . Painted the frame and bottom of the floor with it. Real happy with the results. Get it on your hands and you will have it there for a while!
    rbrewer likes this.
  15. I agree on frames and stuff. I go a step further and powder coat them after blasting. Haven't done a car in 20 years or so but up 'til then, it didn't cost much more to have the powder coater blast and coat the parts than it cost to have someone just blat them then come up with the money for today's $400/gallon paint. I blast and powder coat frames and all suspension parts, fender wells, engines, tranny cases, rear ends, and exhaust systems past the header flange.

    The place where I use rust converters is on body sheet metal. The converter doesn't just coat the rust, it soaks in and completely chemically converts it to a strong inert material that actually protects.
    alanp561 likes this.
  16. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,050


    We used the some rust converter on the bottom of my son's 50 Chevy. His car his light surface rust over the whole bottom of the car, so we wired brushed it, wiped it down, then brushed on the rust converter. Once it dried, we used Rustoleum gloss black enamel which we also brushed on. We are not able to do a frame off (time and space) but we wanted to get everything cleaned up and coated with a good layer of paint to keep it protected for years to come. Pretty happy with the results. The build thread for his car is below which has more details somewhere in there regarding what brand we used.
    rbrewer likes this.
  17. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,610


    I used POR15 on one car, it was a royal pain in the ass to apply. Don't get it on your skin. If you do, it's extremely hard to remove from skin and subjects your liver to the toxins that are in it. If you have liver issues, stay away from it..

    I use what they used back in the old days, Grease. I don't drive down a dusty road right after coating it though lol..

    I like the Lubriplate extra heavy gear shield. It goes on black and wet, then dry's to a nice semi gloss black/ grey.
    It saturates the steel with oil and then drys to a very strong outer shell. If something scratches it and exposes the inside to the atmosphere, it will dry and continue keeping the steel protected.. Nothing like it.

    I sprayed the whole cars inner fenders, roof, doors, frame (it doesn't hurt rubber). Anything that doesn't come in contact with people unless there's work being done.

    I buy it by the case on e-Bay..

    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
  18. sleepchamber
    Joined: Feb 11, 2020
    Posts: 18


    just watched it this morning as my buddy is looking to cleanup his frame.
    alanp561 likes this.
  19. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 2,003


    Again, POR-15 is something I've used on car frames and under water steel boat parts. I took the body off my '55 Ford sedan delivery and I used less than 2 quarts to brush the entire frame. Still had enough to paint the bottom of the floors. At the time, it was $39 per quart and it's now around $50. $100 is pretty cheap for the protection it provides. Use rubber gloves and a long sleeve shirt. I smeared some Vaseline on my face to take care of the occasional splatter and came out clean after applying the POR-15.
  20. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,541


    About that, I put POR15 on the top of a 1935 Ford pickup right rear fender 27 years ago. No prep, just walked up and brushed it on and left it in the weather. It turned flat pretty quick but has been unchanged ever since.
  21. I've used it, with mixed results ( might be my lack of skills , who knows?)
    I've also bought east woods spray can rust convertor, comes in different colors, it seemed to me that it had a short self life, and that east wood was updating / coming up with new mix's. This was about 10 years ago, so you may want to call thier tech support line for current products.
  22. You can church it up all you want, like Anthony said in the beginning, rust mort does exactly what you're wanting.
  23. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,183


    I have used Rust Mort as well.
  24. Hop2it
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 96


    Ospho,works great about $30 a gallon at my local ace hardware follow the directions, you will be happy with the results
  25. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,925


  26. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,546


    My can of rust Mort was 1 time use. Opened it, poured some off, put the lid back on with a hammer.

    Next time I opened, it was a brick.
  27. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,995

    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    POR-15 is an "Cyanoacrylate"????
    POR-15 is an "MCU". Moisture cured urethane. VERY tough stuff! There are other versions of this product out there, Like Rust Bullet, Eastwood's product, and Pro Plan (I think), and my favorite, Master Series. When I bought some paint to cover the concrete in my new shop (20+ years ago), I picked up some good stuff at Sherwin Williams paint store, it turned out to be "aliphatic urethane", an MCU. Held up good, except for the paint stripper and weld spatter killing sections.
    I do believe it contains isocyanates, which are very hazardous to breathe. So take precautions.
    I use these a LOT to seal up the backsides of welded patches, and protect floors, inside and out. The floors, and frames I primer with it, I will shoot with undercoat, Zolatone, or even paint, just when the MCU is slightly tacky. Wet, it makes a mess, too dry and it won't stick.
    For best rust blocking results, use the sealer with the aluminum flakes in it. They help block oxygen better than the color versions that are just the resins. (Got this from Pat55, the guy here, who sells Master Series)
    williebill, Tman and alanp561 like this.
  28. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,183


  29. hepme
    Joined: Feb 1, 2021
    Posts: 90


    Ospho is the ticket. Its cheap, does a job equal to or better than the others, and goes a long way when its applied. A really good mask required (painter's type) and gloves since is practically all phosphoric acid.
    Here in the Gulf Coast, all the shrimp boats use it for rust-good enough for them, i'll take it.
  30. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,107

    from WA-OR, USA

    ^ I've tried lots of different stuff for rust and keep coming back to Ospho. I found it's best to first remove as much rust as possible by sanding, blasting or acid, then using it. Nearly everything I do in steel I use it on. Also use it on galvanize to etch it for paint. It's worked well for me for many years...half way through my second gallon.

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