Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical ***Ringing in January 2015 Banger Meet ***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jan 1, 2015.

  1. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 325

    Jiminy
    Member

    Here is the banger link list .


    For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

    Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

    Banger basics. another info link list:

    http://www.fordgarage.com/

    http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

    Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

    Model B rod bearing insert numbers
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


    Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
    http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

    Adjusting dual Strombergs:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

    Helpful Model A tools and tips:

    http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

    Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

    Elrod's stuck head tech:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

    Model A generator to alternator conversion:

    http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

    Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

    http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php


    Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

    Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

    http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


    Chevy Banger Stuff

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

    Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10


    T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

    Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2015
  2. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,603

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for getting the New Year started
     
  3. Figured out why my engine won't run. None of the exhaust valves seal.

    which brings me to my next question

    How do I get the valves and guides out? Checked Ford barn,but not a real clear answer.
     
  4. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,305

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    Checking in so that I can access this thread on the app
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    checking in, 2015 already?
     
  6. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    Maybe there are other forces at work here.
    Make sure the lifters and valves are not stuck/frozen in block.
    You should be able to rotate motor so that a piston is up all the way and check to see if you have lifter clearance.
    You will have to determine which cylinder is in firing position, easy, it is the one with both valves closed and clearance on the lifters.
    The stock and V8 springs are pretty weak, and if the valve or lifter is hanging up the valve will not seat.

    Take a picture inside at the valves/springs so we can see the type of retainers.

    John
     
  7. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,994

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Pull the head
    crank over the engine until the lifter is fully down
    compress the valve spring
    slide keeper out from under the spring
    lift up on valve from the top and pull the spring out
    valve guide halves should come out towards the bottom
    pull valve out the top
     
  8. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,994

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    on another note, I got mine to fire for the first time since the tear-down this afternoon...

     
  9. I've adjusted the valves and spent a good amount of time watching the valves and everything operate. Obviously I could be missing something. I grab some pictures soon.

    that easy? thought there was a special tool needed?
     
  10. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,994

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    You just need the proper spring compressor. The spring holds the keeper on the valve and the guide in the block. Henry's penny-pinching at its best.
     
  11. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    It depends on the type of keepers you have on the valve springs.
    When you mention that you have adjusted the valves, explain exactly what you have done.
    If the valves are not closing, they are adjusted in-correctly.
    If you have adjustable lifters, back them down and give .015 clearance. Then the valves have to be seating.

    J
     
  12. They are opening and closing correctly, as far as I can tell. They have the correct cleareances. I even took the time to adjusted the lifters way loose, and did a wet leak down test with the head off and the valve closed. They leak. So I can only assume... The valve is not sealing on the seat.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  13. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,132

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Happy New Year.

    .
     
  14. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,132

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    If you have replaced the valves and / or the valve guides with out regrinding the valve seats, then that could be a cause for the valves to not seal.

    .
     
  15. Which is what I think is going on. I didn't build this engine, it was just a moth balled rebuild. I bought it and stuck some speed parts on. I've never gotten it to run.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,019

    The37Kid
    Member

    Were these seats freshly cut or is this just a lap job on old seats & valves? Bob
     
  17. I don't know. I did not perform the work. But I beleive the valves are used.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  18. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    If the motor has never run it could be the cam timing.
    Trust me, a motor will start and run with leaky valves, I have seen some that you didn't need to test, just look through them.
    So, cam timing and distributor is firing the correct hole.

    J
     
  19. I will check it all out again.
     

  20. I figured out why my engine won't run: IT'S NOT TOGETHER!

    Happy New (and prosperous) Year to you all!
     
  21. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    What Old Dawg said^^^^^

    X 40 or so......... I'll get something together this year! Maybe
     
  22. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    I resemble that remark, damn, there are a lot of holes to drill and tap in a OHV head.

    I already filled the vacuum with chips this week, time to go dump it.

    J
     
  23. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    Happy New Year to you all!!
    Has there ever been a comparison made of the heat stove type single down-draft intake and the unheated type?

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I need to pick an intake for a street engine project that includes:
    6:1 head
    Stipe grind cam
    1.7" intakes, shimmed springs
    lightened flywheel
    counterbalanced crank
    stock exhaust manifold w/ glasspack

    Thanks for your opinions and help.

    R/ Roger.
     
  24. Juggler
    Joined: Aug 20, 2010
    Posts: 77

    Juggler
    Member

    Is the one on the left the Snyder's one? If so I don't think it will fit the stock exhaust manifold...
     
  25. blgitn
    Joined: Sep 13, 2011
    Posts: 104

    blgitn
    Member

    Juggler,
    You're right: I just checked Snyders on line catalog; says it won't work with stock exhaust. That ones off the list.
    I see period Burns units that are unheated. Will they perform as well as one with a heat transfer plate?
     
  26. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,603

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I run a unheated single down draft Burns on an A motor with a 94 Holley. It is a little cold natured but runs real well when warmed up. Maybe I should break down and install a choke cable on it.
    I have a 2 X 2 Zepher unheated (has header pipes) with Stromberg 81s on an OHV B motor that again runs real well and is not cold natured.
    Both are running electric fuel pumps that are regulated.
    I don't have experience with the heated DD manifolds so can't make a comparison
     
  27. On A and B bangers, does anyone run pressured cooling systems?
    What pump do you use?
    I have a new stainless waterpump shaft and seal kit I picked up with misc used parts less empeler.
    Can these modern seals handle any water pressure?
    Today it's about 110 and can be over 90 degrees for 3 months a year and worried about keeping it running cool at highway speeds.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  28. On that Snyder's intake, I actually emailed them about clearance with stock exhaust manifold.
    It does fit with a little clearance grinding I was told.
    I'm still undecided on running that one or the Ansen single intake with the stock exhaust manifold.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  29. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    John

    Not just the holes but the surfacing of three sides too.
     
  30. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 939

    johnneilson
    Member

    Bluto,
    Most of the side work was done.
    But, still a ton of holes and more to go.
    I need to build a fixture to drill the throttleshaft holes.
    Don't ask, I don't know. The casting was a swap meet special. Even so, I have not found any thin spots or porosity, so who ever made it knew something about casting. It kind of looks like a Moller but still very different.
    The price was right and it has potential. It flows about 100 cfm more air than my current head.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.