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HEMI Tech- Examples and specs!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Jul 6, 2006.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  2. Mercmad
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,383

    Mercmad
    BANNED
    from Brisvegas

    This was one of mine and a favorite of most of the Hemis i've owned.
    It was a 1951 331 from a New Yorker ( C51) .Bored to 354 Cu.in. with jahns cast 13-1 pistons .
    Isky 4HHH Roller cam and Rev kit.
    Adjustable pushrods.
    Stock conrods.
    Oz roller chain with adjustable cam sprocket ( LA type)with bush to fit early cam).
    polished internal surfaces in the block with lifter bore oil holes sleeved with grub screws which were drilled to .050 to reduce oil to the roller followers.
    LA high volume oil pump on home made adaptor with Mopar hi perf. heavy duty shaft.
    LA electronic dissy and Orange box.
    hard Chromed rocker shafts.
    Isky mulit valve springs.
    Stock size valves and very heavily Ported heads and bronze guides with Ford Mushroom valve seals .The heads were done in the distant past.
    Intake was via a home made injection system which flowed 970 CFM and worked really well because I could tune it on the run and it allowed the engine to idle almost like a stocker.
    I was going to run it on the street using a dual Quad set up I got off a mate. A very Rare Bohnalite manifold for dual WCFB's .
    I had the whole lot balanced for $140..:)
    The block had the oil hole in rear gallery drilled to allow oil flow to cam /oil pump gear.
    I made the exhausts from Model A axle tubes to run on the salt where it ran exceptionally ,and it was the First Early hemi to run on the salt here in OZ and I think it may ,so far,be the only one.
    I ran it through a home made trans which fucked up,,ha ha should have used Mopar parts instead of Ford..Still managed 121MPH in First though.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. foolthrottle
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 1,406

    foolthrottle
    Member

    354 Hemi
     

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  4. Haha! Maybe you could glue it all together with some vintage glue and modern tape.
     
  5. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,824

    4tford
    Member

    Here is mine it has 30 over aerias pistons 10:1 compression, the paw advertised 290 duration hydralic cam, weiand 2x4 intake with 2 600cfm eldelbrock carbs with progressive linkage, mallory unilite distributor and coil, chev bb waterpump, studs for the head and mains, hh valve covers, and taylor plug wires, hot heads shorty headers and oil filter adapter.
     

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  6. mrrich
    Joined: Jul 22, 2008
    Posts: 189

    mrrich
    Member
    from seattle

    This was an interesting motor. I bought the block and heads from a guy that had them on ebay. He couldn't sell them because the block was decked 200 thousandths and the heads were cut to match. It was an old pro stock motor, I was told. I gave him 2000 for both. The heads had crazy porting. I think I used pistons made for a 4.5 inch stroke with a 4.15 stroke crank. Mopar performance pistons. Wiseco, 300 dollars. Chinese 200 dollar H-beam rods. I had Dave Hughes from Hughes engines grind a big roller cam, something like 700 and change lift and 285 duration (@50). I advanced the cam 4 degrees to increase the cylinder pressure as per Dave's instructions. Used 50 dollar swap meet roller lifters. Used rockers, complete on Ebay for 300 dollars. (no kidding, buy it now I bought em within minutes of them being listed at 1am.)
    The biggest problem was the intake. I have a Rat Roaster I was going to use but no way. I asked Mike Soldano, (Soldano Custom Amplification, brilliant hot rod builder) But I already knew the answer. I wanted to cut it in 3 pieces and have individual banks of throttle bodies with a valley pan Like the early Hemis. I just needed him to tell me if I could do it.
    Within a week he did it. It was awesome, the shafts would bind and the butterflies were practically stuck until the intakes were torqued down and then they were smooth as butter. I sealed up the valley pan with gray silicon to match the casting.
    This motor ran really good. Started immediately, not even two revs. Idled at 800 rpm. Eventually. Those Hilborns take a little fuckin with to get em working. But that thing wanted to spin. The cam with a stroker crank was supposed to be all done by 6500 but I had the rev limiter at 7. I swear to god that thing was making power to 7500. First time out 11.2. by the end of the day it went 10:41 running out of fuel on the top end because the injectors were too small. I figured maybe 600 crank horsepower. Maybe. 650 at the wheels. That was a fun car.
     

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  7. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    After all that and you didn't tell us what it is...

    ...Is that a Heavily modified 426?
     
  8. mrrich
    Joined: Jul 22, 2008
    Posts: 189

    mrrich
    Member
    from seattle

    Yeah. 472 to be exact. Did you mean early hemi only? Oh.
     
  9. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, we like 'em a little older, but I don't think anyone is going to complain about that beast! :D I'll tell ya' what though... you can make good on it by posting a video of that baby running. :cool::D
     
  10. mrrich
    Joined: Jul 22, 2008
    Posts: 189

    mrrich
    Member
    from seattle

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p49Ko9SV6dw I may have put this up earlier...
     
  11. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  12. Charlie DeLong
    Joined: Apr 30, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Charlie DeLong
    Member

    I'm building a 29 Model A coupe with a 241 Dodge Hemi. I got some ideas for front motor mounts from this forum. Here's what I came up with. I wanted the room underneath these "Gorilla Arms" for my alternator and A/C compressor. Thank you to Hemi-Tech!

    Charlie
     

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  13. spoons
    Joined: Jan 1, 2004
    Posts: 1,738

    spoons
    Member
    from ohio

    I'll have a few pics of mine coming up here in a few days...
    Long block is assembled and and have the intake and mag mocked up...
    FYI.......060 over 291 Desoto........ <!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->
    <FIELDSET class=fieldset><LEGEND>Attached Thumbnails</LEGEND>[​IMG] [​IMG]
    </FIELDSET>
     
  14. spoons
    Joined: Jan 1, 2004
    Posts: 1,738

    spoons
    Member
    from ohio

    How about these apples....:confused:
     

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  15. 57 Dodge 325 KD 500 in a Victress body.
     

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  16. sliderule67
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 367

    sliderule67
    Member
    from Houston

    "cut down GM HEI"- - - Does anyone have dimensions and details on how to do this? Something you could give a machinist to work from? It may be on the HAMB, but I haven't found anything other than make it look like the old one. Don't got the old one.....slide
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2008
  17. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,206

    73RR
    Member


    Why go to all the work when a Mopar electronic drops in ??


    .
     
  18. Ichoptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 721

    Ichoptop
    Member

    been done for awhile....found some old pix from last year


    331 bored .020 10.5:1 forged Aluminum pistons, big chevy valves, isky cam, double roller chain, hot heads intake, hot head oiling system, Holley 650 mechanical 4 barrel, BBC ALuminum water pump, lakes style pipes for now.
     

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  19. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,956

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've got this in my vintage dirt modified. 331 out of a '54 New Yorker, bored .060, Engle roller tappet cam, ported heads, Cirello "Frankenstein" magneto, Hot Heads aluminum timing cover and a SBC water pump, and a Weiand dual quad manifold modified to accept 2 500cfm 2GC's. I wanted to have look period as much as I can and not sacrifice durability. I think I succeeded; been running for about 10 years now with no problems (I do have the rev limiter set at 5500 however).:rolleyes:
     

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  20. Here's a post I did when I converted a SBC magneto to work with my hemi. Pretty much the same as what you want to do.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279829&highlight=hemi+magneto

    I have to ask why you would want something as ugly as a factory HEI on a hemi though. I bought a new Mopar distributer for the Poly 318 in my 59 Plymouth wagon that looks mopar but has an hei in it. I forget the exact price but it was pretty darned cheap for a new unit.
     
  21. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  22. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  23. And I can speak from experience, bronze guides do NOT last longer than sintered iron guides in a hemi. In a Chevy, maybe but not in a hemi. The rocker geometry puts too much side thrust on the guides and it mushes out the soft bronze guides in 3,000 miles or so. You're better off knurling a stock guide than putting in bronze guides.

    Now, if you're racing the thing, bronze may be the hot setup. After all, you'll be tearing down the heads every few races anyways so what's the big deal about worn guides?

    I saw where he only mentioned bronze in the exhaust guides. I wonder what magical trick he uses to keep the oil from fouling the plugs if he doesn't do anything to the intake guides.

    Hemi valve guide clearances are CRITICAL especially with a manual transmission, if you intend on using the engine for a daily driver. Hard deceleration, like you'll find in a manual transmission drive-line will raise your manifold vacuum high enough to start sucking oil down the intake stems. Automatics are more forgiving. They won't instantly bump up your manifold vacuum (WAY up) when you lift your foot off the loud pedal.

    High tech valve seals may work for a short time but they'll starve the guides and they'll wear out even faster.

    Measure EVERY valve stem separately and number them then clearance EACH valve guide to fit the valve stems. I've found that, on the street, the sintered iron guides (factory type) work the best.

    .....and don't use a Chevy machinist. They don't know how to work on hemis and they'll ruin a set of heads in short order.
     
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  25. strombergs97
    Joined: May 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,888

    strombergs97
    Member
    from California

    Here is a 315/325 Weiand 4x2 Intake. I have the linkage in mock-up..This is a sweet intake.
    Duane.
     

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  26. This is the 345 DeSoto Adventurer I built to go into my 55 Sportsman. Bone Stock...right down to the carbs. The car took 1st place in the Modified Division at the 2008 National DeSoto Convention...
     

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  27. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  28. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,584

    krooser
    Member

    Here's one of mine that is in my F100...

    '56 354 Industrial block +.060 (actually a pass. car block used in a water pump)
    '55 Triple Nickle heads with stainless valves and industrial valve covers
    Clay Smith cam w/stock lifters/pushrods
    8 to 1 Venolia slugs with Total Seal rings
    Stock crank ground 30/30 King bearings
    318 timing chain
    Stock timing cover and using a 392 water pump
    Cragar manifold
    6-71 huffer rebuilt by Rick Dean/Gary Dyer drive kit
    Stock exhaust manifolds
    Several different blower tops to choose from...1X4,3X2,4X2
     

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  29. sounds like another urban legend.

    The only "feature" of the '55 eads is their intake runner configration.
     
  30. '55 DeSoto 291, .030 over
    Stock heads/valves
    Comp Cams #901 valve springs
    Chet Herbert #7 Roller Cam
    Comp Cam retro roller lifters (Mopar LA 273-360)
    6-71 W/ 2 Carter Competition Series 500 CFM carbs
    Stock distributer W/Pertronics unit
    HH Timing Case cover W/aluminum Chevy water pump
    High Torque Mini starter
    Sanderson Shorty headers
     

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