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Projects Going to give this a try 27' T build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trcooperone, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. I agree, what's inside the Box as long as it's in good health seems to be a moot point. The bump steer is something countless numbers of Hot Rodder's just seem to live with, some cars are worse than others. My personal choice is cross steer and I've learned that a good healthy front spring that is the correct length will eliminate side sway. If your shackles are at 30 degrees and a good spring you can't swing the axle unless the Tires can't turn. Done like this you don't need a panhard bar but change the shackle angle to 45 and it's a different story. Add in a broken down old spring and it's worse yet. Reversed front wheels just keep adding to the problem.
     
    trollst likes this.
  2. Sweet & Low
    Joined: Feb 13, 2014
    Posts: 248

    Sweet & Low
    Member

    Man I was just talking to my buddy that builds steering boxes and I stand corrected as he said that the 37 to 48 boxes do have the same internals. And he said that the F100 box is the one you want. The F1 will work but they made a change in 56 with the F100 box and it is different and better. He's looking and said he thinks he may have one. If he does I'll send you a message.
     
  3. FYI The F-100 box started in 53 and is the same through 56 with the exception of the 56 shaft being 2" shorter to accommodate the new deep dish steering wheel. Get's back to drag link or cross steer, pick your poison.
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 13,686

    alchemy
    Member

    I think the F-100 box is the same up even farther (1960?), except for the mounting boss and probably the length of the shaft. Many guys will be modifying the mounting boss anyway by cutting it down to fit in our narrow early frames. And most every shaft length will need to be modified for correct fit.
     
  5. In 57 the pitman arm to sector changed. It's basic Hot Rod fab work in that you can make anything fit and do a job. Not all end results work the same. I have not been to TROG yet but what I see in photos they try to fit in a real early era of time. Builders need to think about that when making choices so the visual fits the menu. Some things can be over looked but some stand out like a Wart on your nose. This kind of fits the Wart menu.
    [​IMG]Not that it don't do the job, it will turn the Tires. I don't think this was real common till much latter in time.
     
  6. lemmielou
    Joined: Jan 17, 2008
    Posts: 2

    lemmielou
    Member

    Suggestion !! I have done this stuff all my life. Have several 27 T hot rods. A bit of information, some friends, and patience will get you thru . Recommend you get a copy of Vern Tardels book on upgrading a Model A to a mild hot rod driver. This book cover so much of what you want to do. Use the books a basic reference and adjust accordingly.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  7. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    408C6523-556C-4CA1-8037-848D406BC885.jpeg Thanks for all the info!!!!

    I bought a F1 steering set up and have an idea on how I am going to use it.

    I also ordered tires yesterday so I started prepping the rims for paint
     
  8. Cool and hope it doesn't look like a "wart'' like on my T. JW
     
    PINEAPPLE likes this.
  9. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Your steering looked funny?
     
  10. Read post 65 ^^ JW
     
    PINEAPPLE likes this.
  11. Being this post is from a builder New to the Old stuff and trying to fit into a narrow time in Hot Rod history I have been trying to help him build a Car that not only fits his chosen time but will also be a Joy to drive. People that just hang parts in a place seldom ever say "wish I had done it different" when asked how things work. Looks are secondary. F-1 style steering has been mounted in so many ways over the years you would think it was the best thing out there, well it isn't no mater how it's mounted with split bones and 4 bar is just wrong in a Time machine. To back up my opinion here is a direct Quote from one of the Best chassis builder to come along. Mr. Pet Eastwood.
    "QUOTE" Since this thread is titled "Cowl Steering and suspension setup", I'm going to add something I've wanted to address for some time.
    If you are thinking of using split wishbones / hairpins, with cowl steering, like the current, popular trend, I would encourage you to rethink that choice.
    The most common way of utilizing cowl steering, like as seen on many popular cars today, results in bump steer. Usually massive bump steer.
    If you ever have the chance, and can get the owner of a cowl steer car to agree, with the car parked, have the owner move the front suspension up & down & watch what the steering wheel is doing.
    It will saw back & forth.
    Do the same to a correctly executed side steer or cross steer car & there will be no ( or very little )steering wheel movement.
    What this means, when you drive a cowl steer car, & you grip the wheel tightly, the car will change lanes when you hit a dip or bump.
    To avoid this, requires holding the steering wheel loosely so when a dip or bump is encountered, the wheel can rotate back & forth in your hands, so the car can continue on a straight path.
    If that sounds like a fun way to go, well then have at it.
    There is a way to have cowl steering that works correctly ! It requires using a 4 link,
    The drag link & the 4 link bars should be parallel with each other & fairly close to the same length.
    I've driven a couple hundred thousand miles in '32 Fords, a good handling car is a joy to drive, a poor handling car is work to drive & soon becomes no fun . . . .
    PETE EASTWOOD, OCT 3, 2017
    The point here is to try to Help trcooperone make good choices on his first Hot Rod build and end up with a Car that both He and his Wife will enjoy driving, not one that makes him say "this is what it's all about?" and put a For Sale sign on it. There is a Right way and a why not. I chose an example for visual for a new guy. Call it what you want there is a much better way, sorry 26 T Ford RPU if you felt picked on. We all try to do our best with what we have on hand. That may explain why you built what you have. Wish I could have given you the above info before you made your choice to use the F-1 unit. Maybe that's exactly what you wanted, so be it. Good info is priceless and seems to be hard to come by.
     
    trollst likes this.
  12. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 218

    sdroadster
    Member

    All this bump steer talk can be resolved easily. Build your car with drag link steering if you want. If it bump steers, snub the front suspension to limit the travel. Simple.
     
  13. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    9E848575-F96B-4A26-B0CF-FBAB5E3F5B10.jpeg CE0051E7-FBE6-49C2-88BD-F82A394B0B78.jpeg Did some work today! Got the body mocked up on the frame!!!

    I thought I had the plate to retain the front springs... I don’t. So if any of you have one let me know! I have the u-bolts and the top price but need the plate that retains the springs on the bottom.

    I also painted my rims and my transmission came today!
     
  14. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    886BB7DC-7026-4D78-AD30-A13493347A70.jpeg Tires showed up, they will be mounted tomorrow and I’ll have a roller!!!

    The rear tires are taller than I thought! I will definitely need to work the suspenion to get the right ride height.

    I still want to try and not Z the frame. I have a full T and A rear spring pack to work with to get the right height
     
  15. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    0A799BC9-9B9A-4F8C-A44A-161B1AD2F727.jpeg We have a roller folks!!!

    I need a radiator, grill shell, ignition, clutch and a bunch of small things...

    I am selling some parts to help fund it all. Check my profile under my posting. I have a drop axle, model a transmission and a rear model A leaf pack
     
  16. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 102

    5280A2

    Looks like you are well on your way. Your ride height is typical for early hot rods, but you can go an inch or two lower with minimal work by using a rear main leaf with a reversed eye combined with removing some of the leaves from the spring pack. On my Model A roadster pickup I am using an A spring with a total of five functioning spring leaves, and that is plenty for a light weight car. Cut off two that you remove and install them under the main leaf so you have a total of seven leaves captured by the spring clamp. Use the spring clamp for a seven-leaf (roadster) spring; they're about 3/4 inch thicker than the one made for the ten leaf springs.

    You can also reverse the eyes on your front spring easily at home with a bottle jack or hydraulic press. There's lots of how-to's on doing that. Then do the same trick of removing several leaves, you start with ten on a Model A and can easily remove three or four, which again should be shortened and added to the bottom of the spring pack.

    Please share the sizes of the tires you're using, looks like the Excelsior radials
     
  17. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Thanks 5280A2, I am ok with the height and rake. Might mess with the rear pack a little but so far I like it.

    The tires are excelsior but they are bias ply

    Rears are 7.00-19 and the fronts are 4.00-19
     
    dwollam likes this.
  18. ZZLEGEND
    Joined: Jul 20, 2008
    Posts: 182

    ZZLEGEND
    Member

    Kind of looks familiar. 6.1 head, stipe cam, 94 down draft, "B" dist., 39 trans.
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Is that an aluminum head or a stock one machines down?

    It looks good!
     
  20. ZZLEGEND
    Joined: Jul 20, 2008
    Posts: 182

    ZZLEGEND
    Member

    Its an iron head from Snyders. Stock heads are not good to machine down. They have different chambers.
     
  21. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    550AA785-CAF7-4932-9271-31966FB82D5A.jpeg 6C89CACA-6362-4289-B9EA-8E98C78C2533.jpeg I have been slammed at work and home and have not had much time for the 27!! I am still collecting parts and my budget is getting very slim!!! I am doing my best to find parts and I have some parts for sale. So go help the couse and make me an offer on the stuff I have for sale here!!

    stuff I don't have listed is stock intake and exhaust and front leaf mounts

    I am looking for these parts as cheap as possible!!!

    Front spring lower ubolt plate
    V8 clutch
    28/29 grill shell
    basic fuel tank (will go in the trunk)
    Rear shackles
    mechanical brake linkage!! I have all the stuff at the drums and on the body, just need the actual linkage
    fan/pulley
    Radiator suggestions (probably go with a Chinese repop unfortunaly...)
    exhaust, I might build my own...

    Also picked up this intake
     
    dwollam likes this.
  22. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    C242F167-5358-44AA-8730-EFD872A78AFA.jpeg 6807805E-90B7-4D52-8B9B-E2D7387779EE.jpeg 36088014-F1CA-4E3F-9AA1-4D763E928326.jpeg 565E31EC-2305-4689-9C33-35A09F0CD429.jpeg Did a few things on the T but the beat was chopping the windshield!

    Instantly made it look cooler!
     
    Shadow Creek likes this.
  23. I'm a bit partial to a 27T on an A chassis with a warm four banger...

    T-at-the-mill.jpg
     
    enloe likes this.
  24. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Those are nice looking rides!
     
  25. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,561

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    Just found this thread. I am liking how this project is coming along. Hooray for more bangers. One thing people haven't mentioned is the monthly Banger meet here on the HAMB. There is a new thread started each month with a lot of links and information at the top of each month. Lots of good people on there and are always willing to help. A less expensive warm up item could be a Model B head. They have a slightly higher comp ratio at 5-1 (I think) compared to a stock 4.5-1. However you will have to run a B water pump but they are available. You might find one of those cheaper than a new Snyder head or other makes of high comp heads.

    Here is a link to May's banger meet.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ger-meet-may-all-4-stay-in-the-block.1148452/
     
  26. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Right on! Thanks!
     
  27. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    7A1605A1-B66E-4348-AB79-FC5A523C1878.jpeg 1D18D4B1-93BE-422B-9AD4-E8B92BDA6887.jpeg 5194EFBC-F376-4B2B-98F2-8C630B49536E.jpeg Body mounts in!
     
    OFT, 26 T Ford RPU and enloe like this.

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