I just drove home a 79 T bird with less than 36K miles... I'll be using the motor and tranny to go into my 50 shoebox. I know motor and tranny mounts are available through a couple vendors ( I'll use Jamsco bolt ins) But I've got a couple question that i havent been able to answer even after reading everything I could find on site. Will I have to modify the transmission hump in the floor? Will the stock exhaust headers work or will i need to replace them to clear the steering box? The oil pan ... does it need to be changed or not; and if so what is the right pan. The original flathead and overdrive will be set aside in the shop for now with a final destination unknown. thanks in advance guys for your help.
A few months ago my Son and I looked at a 51 Ford that (coincidently) a HAMB member had for sale, and it had a 302 in it. He said it was an easy swap and used 5.0 Mustang shorty headers. I forget what oil pan he said he used, but I don't think anything needed done to the trans hump for the C4 he was running. It tucked down in there pretty well. Maybe he will see this thread and offer some info. Don
Ok call me nuts, but are you cutting up a clean 79 TBird for its 302? You ought to be able to flip that bird on eBay for $4-5k I'd think if it's as nice as it looks and that's enough for a crate 302 and trans...... 79 wasn't exactly a great year for engines...... That 302 was rated at 133hp.
X2! For your shoebox I would look for a 1988-93 5.0(aka 302) with the matching AOD for your donor engine for several reasons these AOD's are non computer overdrives which have all the latest upgrades and improved valve body,these engines also have the dual sump oil pan you need for clearance and the factory shorty headers will clear your steering box.I am also sending you a pm.
If I was looking for an OT DD, I'd go $4K for it... which should fund a later power train, all depending on what you laid out for the 'Bird... Bob
If you do pull the motor I would be interested in the body for a daily driver if you are not too far from me.
Thanks JEFFB2 for your message, that was really helpful. The skinny on the Tbird: My friend wanted the car to install a 460 from a lincoln in. He wasnt looking for a cream puff ( he has several of them already), he just wanted a sleeper that had that "old grocery getter" look about it. He found this one, the floors are rotten, the roof is gone and its a base model. The deal was, If I would take a day to drive down to the coast ( 500 miles round trip) and bring it home, I could have the drive train if I pulled it. Being my flatty has 86K, its untested since I started my build and I will be doing many long hauls the offer came at the right time. I'm happy with a low hp sled motor with low miles, it works for me. To each his own applies here. Rejoice that another shoebox has been saved from a chev implant- a flathead can be shared with a fellow hot rodder who has a passion for them and another gets the street sleeper he's wanted for a few years. I'd still like to know; Do I need to modify my floor and will the stock exaust headers clear the steering box?
Lono To answer your questions. Yes you have to move the trans tunnel up. Yes either bolt in or weld in motor mounts. I welded mine in but bolt ins take the guess work out of where to mount the motor. Yes Mustang shorty headers will clear the stock steering box. Last but not least oil pan http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Racing/397/M-6675-A460/10002/-1 . The stock trans cross member works. I did the swap in mine from old motor to new motor including drive shaft in less than 24 hours. Try to find an early Mustang or the best bet is Maverick rear end. I have the 2.79 in mine and love it and get about 24 mpg and it will still get up and go and leave rubber with bias plys. Some people like the 3.00 it's a peronal choice I guess. And check out Sean's post for a lot of good info http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296506
Make that 3 now we are a movement. As for some of your questions they will be answered with your motor mounts. As a rule they come with intructions and suggested pieces to make it work. I know that transdapt and advance adapters do. You will probably need a rear sump pan which you can source from a truck if the T bird has a front sump or you can get one after market as well.
Lono, i went thru the same delema with the flatty thing. I decided with the 302. That 302 you have is a low hp motor but if it's for free, use it and maybe change later if you feel the need. If you go thru my build thread you'll see the install, tunnel mods etc. With your experiance, should be a piece of cake for you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=524648
The AOD came out a year later,so He probably has a C4 which will clear.You can buy '51 tunnels from several sources.
Your right, it's a C4. The project will start when the leaves fall. I'll pull the motor and tranny next week and clean them up. For now I plan on finishing the bodywork, paint and interior and do a little driving around with the flatty. Next summer though, we be doing some long hauls. The T bird will get trailered to my friend who live about 600 miles away. He's got a 460 plant just waiting there to slide into the cavity as soon as it arrives. He's really looking forward to his grocery getter sleeper. Thanks everyone for your advice and information.
I kinda dig that car. My grandma had a T-Bird like that when I was a kid...it was a 76 and had a 460. It seemed that car was a mile long back then but from what I remember that thing would haul some ass.
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