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Technical '32 Ford 4dr. Hot Rod project

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dwollam, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,244

    alchemy
    Member

    Very common to weld an arm to the bottom of the stock brake pedal and mount a master to the backside of the crossmember with a simple bracket, and the rod runs right under the K member. Trick is to keep the arm as short as possible to just clearance under the K member. This will keep the ratio as close to 6:1 as possible.
     
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  2. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

  3. I used a stock pedal assembly and made an adapter to hold the master cylinder. I started by bolting a plate to the K member and welding the bracket to that, thus no additional holes. I relocated the battery to the right side but with todays smaller batteries I might have left it on the left. The hole in the floor originally intended to service the battery provided a place to fill the master cylinder.

    Charlie Stephens

    Card1 032.jpg

    Card1 034.jpg

    Card1 029.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
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  4. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

  5. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,138

    clem
    Member

  6. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,646

    97
    Member

  7. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Thanks @clem and @97 . I read through the '32 4dr thread. I had seen some of the pics before when I did a search on 4drs. The '32 pickup thread I will read later today.

    Dave
     
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  8. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    20200402_110207.jpg 20200402_110225.jpg Today my friend brought me a set of '32 pedals! The brake pedal has been modified by cutting off the short mech brake arm and welding it on the bottom. It has also had the upper part of the pedal arm cut off just below the upper bend and welded back together lowering the brake pedal pad and the upper part by an inch or so. I am pretty sure I can correct that without much trouble. Just glad to get a workable set!

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
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  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,244

    alchemy
    Member

    Shortening the pedal top was probably done to clear the engine. Even a 59A flathead bolted in the stock location will be very close to the brake pedal.
     
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  10. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    So ya think I should leave it alone for now? Wait til engine and trans are installed and decide then?

    I added pics.

    Thanks,
    Dave
     
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  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,244

    alchemy
    Member

    The angle of the pic makes it seem 3 inches shorter, not just an inch. I'd sure leave it til you get the engine installed, but I'd aim to get it as close to original length as possible. The pedal ratio should be 6:1. I think my lower arm needed to be a bit too long to reach under the crossmember and push the master mounted off a plate on the backside. I don't know what my final ratio is, but it works OK.
     
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  12. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Yeah, it is probably closer to 1 3/4 to 2 inches now that I look again. The pedal itself is close to stock position because it is angled up a little from the weld. I found out yesterday another friend has the ORIGINAL pedal assembly from this car but the brake pedal has had the top 4" cut off and is missing. I may be able to buy this set and make one good one out of the two. Who knows?!

    Dave

    Just found out the ORIGINAL to this car pedal assembly had the top 4" of the CLUTCH pedal cut off, not the brake. Will definitely make a good set out of the two.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
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  13. Garpo
    Joined: Jul 16, 2016
    Posts: 205

    Garpo

    Cross members are the same.
     
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  14. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Brought the body, fenders, hood and some small pieces home today. Set the body back on it's original chassis. I am amazed at the lack of rust, especially in the sub frames. Nothing! There is a little in the doors but not much. Plenty of dents and bullet holes. Here are today's pics!

    Dave

    20200403_151607.jpg 20200403_151637.jpg 20200403_151653.jpg 20200403_151730.jpg 20200403_151748.jpg 20200403_151812.jpg 20200403_151819.jpg 20200403_151843.jpg 20200403_151847.jpg
     
  15. Vernon2
    Joined: Nov 19, 2014
    Posts: 46

    Vernon2
    Member

    Look-en cool Dave.
     
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  16. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,386

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Dave, here is shot of my buddy Bob's 4 door, for inspiration. It looks like you have some great pieces to work with, have fun ! IMG_7963.JPG
     
  17. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Thanks Marty! That's pretty much the look I'm going for minus the hair pins.

    I picked up the original pedal assembly today from my friend Glenn in Bend along with small pieces for the cowl vent. He also has a '39 type trans with '32 mount I will get from him along with the '41 rear end he gave me today. He also has a line on an original windshield w/ glass I will check into. Had a couple hours to kill between MRI's and bone scans so I used it to pick up '32 parts! He has more things I may end up needing.

    Dave
     
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  18. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Well, that windshield isn't for sale so I will be in the market for one. How do the aftermarket w/s fit?

    Dave
     
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  19. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,244

    alchemy
    Member

    I've recently spent many hours and a good chunk of dollars acquiring and sandblasting a few windshield frames only to find rust through deep in the grooves of every one of them. Basically unrepairable. Unless you can purchase one already blasted clean, I wouldn't waste the money for used. Buy a new one from UPAC.
     
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  20. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Thanks @alchemy . I have looked at theirs. For sure a candidate.

    However, having grown up in Missouri and Illinois I know all too much about the rust in the midwest. That's something we have very little of in Central Oregon fortunately.

    Dave
     
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  21. Matlack
    Joined: Jul 3, 2010
    Posts: 49

    Matlack
    Member

    Great job so far Dave
     
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  22. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Gathered some more goodies today for the '32. Picked up 2 transmissions, grey one is a '36 converted to open drive and the other is a '34. Both have severely shortened shifters. The grey one has a 9/16" bolt welded to the top! Must of had a bowling ball on there for a shift knob! It also has a '32 mount. The rebuilt, then removed to hot rod, rear end is a '41. Picked it up just cuz, no plans, maybe just the brakes.

    Dave

    20200408_174316.jpg 20200408_174341.jpg
     
  23. Nice find! I so want a 32 Fordor!
    Can not wait to see you get this together!

    -Shiny
     
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  24. Vernon2
    Joined: Nov 19, 2014
    Posts: 46

    Vernon2
    Member

    any new process on this cool one?
     
  25. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Not since the last trans gathering post Vern. Been working on the '34 DB coupe.

    Dave
     
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  26. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,906

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not to hijack this cool build. Who makes the repro 32 brake pedal with the push rod arm on the bottom for juice brakes? We picked up one at the roundup a couple of years ago. The pedal in our 32 had an ugly booger welded arm on the bottom . Down under we can not weld brake or steering components.
     
  27. Dave, the dark colored trans is probably not a '34. At least the shifter assembly and the rear mount are from a later trans.
     
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  28. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Well Fritz Jr, the serial number on it says it is. That's what I was going by on both of them. I agree on the rear mount. I don't know them well enough to know on the shifter assembly. I think both trans have been messed with a bunch. Did anyone notice the clutch lever on the grey '36?

    Dave
     
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  29. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,138

    clem
    Member

    fwiw;
    I’ve used 2 x speedway motors windscreen frames, - the second one would not fit a stock height car. Was about 3/4“ short. Both needed tweaking around the corners and else where.
    the chrome plater messed up the first one, which still had acid trapped between the hinge brackets and completely rusted out in 12 months.
    this was in the days before UP.

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-5w-sedan-windshield-frame.971729/

    .
     
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  30. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,197

    dwollam
    Member

    Got a few more bits and pieces yesterday and today. HRCTom from Texas on Ford Barn (aka @CrazyDaddy ) sold me some front and rear spring u-bolts and pads at a great price and @yankee mike from NC sold me a '32 rear spring. I called him today wondering where it was as I was worried since it hadn't shown up that maybe he got hit by the tornadoes but he was fine and had sent it over 2 weeks ago by fedex. He called fedex to find out what the hey and not 5 minutes after I talked to him I looked out the front window and fedex was pulling up to my house. Young delivery guy said "that must be a leaf spring!" Yep, thanks so much!
    Called @yankee mike back and told him the good news, he said fedex told him everything is really slow!

    Anyway, both these gentlemen are A1 in my book! Thanks guys!

    Dave
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2020
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