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Hot Rods 28 model a distributor wiring

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gus68, Mar 23, 2019.

  1. Gus68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 470

    Gus68
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Hey guys. I'm trying to help a neighbor get a 28 model a running. I don't care about the ignition switch or the generator or any of that. I just need it to run. It is all old original stuff with the BAT wing style dist. I have one wire comming out of the dist. Oh and it is positive ground 6 volt. So I ASSUME that dist wire goes to the NEG side of the coil? Positive side to ground? Then NEG side of coil to the battery? And it SHOULD run?
     
  2. barrnone50
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 571

    barrnone50
    Member
    from texas

    Here you go[​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. barrnone50
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 571

    barrnone50
    Member
    from texas

    Try This
     

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  4. barrnone50
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 571

    barrnone50
    Member
    from texas

    1 more
     

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  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    To hot wire it:

    Wire coming out of distributor goes to coil terminal marked (plus) +

    Then put a jumper from the main Hot battery wire at the starter to the coil terminal marked - (Minus)

    It is now hot wired, it should start if all else is OK

    That wire out of the distributor was an armored cable with a ''pop out" ignition lock that did break the connection when you shut the car ignition switch off..( inside, where it is screwed into the distributor). Some armored cables have been cut off exposing the wire. Some could be messed up and not making contact inside the distributor.

    To test points: Run a test light to the coil terminal + then ground one end of that test light. When the points are open, the light will be on. When the points are closed, the light is out.

    There are plenty of reports of bad condensers on Model A's. I have had bad ones myself.
     
  6. theboss20
    Joined: Dec 30, 2018
    Posts: 274

    theboss20

    If you don’t know a lot of history you might want to check top dead center with the “pin’ bolt on the water pump to make sure your not 180° out...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  7. Gus68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 470

    Gus68
    Member
    from Minnesota

    F@J that's just what I was looking for! Thanks! That explains the armored cable. I thought that was kinda strange. Thank you very much, I'll give it a shot. He is an older guy. I help him from time to time. He just brought this thing home and got overly excited. The wiring was pretty frayed and shot, but he ripped it all out then got me and said, can you just make it run?
     
  8. Gus68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 470

    Gus68
    Member
    from Minnesota

    He's a pretty fun guy!
     
  9. F&J is on it. If the vehicle is positive ground, the points lead from the distributor connects to the + terminal of the coil. When the points momentarily close it grounds the primary windings in the ignition coil. The negative terminal of the coil supplies the current to the primary windings from the - side of the battery.

    If you need to dig in a bit deeper on ignition troubleshooting you might check out the link below.


    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hot-rod-technical-library-basic-ignition-systems.983424/

    :cool:
     
  10. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    while we're on the subject, can anyone say why ford changed which side of the coil to put power to? its true, read the old books,
     

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