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Projects 1930 Model A Roadster future build questions

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Nov 26, 2017.

  1. Hi Everyone,
    First of all, thank you for such a great site and for all the knowledge you guys share. In my case, the knowledge is minimum and the experience is less so you guys make it so much easier for someone that loves tinkering around old cars.
    I am about to take on my next project, a 1930 Ford Model A roadster. I am yet to start working on it, but as soon as I start, I will start a thread for it.

    My plan is to keep it somewhat traditional. The plan is to use a 59AB that H&H rebuilt for me earlier this year which has been waiting for the right project to come along. I also have a freshly rebuilt T5 transmission, which I am debating to use or go with a '39 Ford unit.

    Now I've done multiple searches here and google but I am yet to find answers to some of my questions. If anyone can help me and clear my direction, I will greatly appreciate it.

    I want to sit it on a pinched '32 frame (aftermarket) and I am debating between Black Board Hot rods or Clarke Hot Rods. Can anyone share their experiences with either one of these frames, pros and cons, or recommendations of one?
    I am planning on using a Steadfast subrail kit. I've been looking for a profile picture of the rear wheel wells to no success.
    How are the rear wheel wells mate to the frame? Do the rear wheel wells get trimmed to the profile of the bottom of the frame or do they remain stock, straight at the bottom, and are "u" cut for rear axel travel? I will not be running fenders and will be a high boy.

    I plan on turning the rumble seat into a trunk. For the floor inside the trunk, with the Steadfast sub rail kit installed, can I use a stock trunk floor kit or will the sub rail kit force a custom floor to be made?

    Rear end. What's a good rear end to use with either T5 or '39 transmission?
    I like the look of the transverse leaf suspension and if possible I would like to use it. Will the use of transverse leafs require them to poke inside the trunk. In most cases, I see a hump added to the back of the trunk.

    As for the windshield. My plan is to chop it 3". The question is, what additional work is require to laid back the windshield, or is that something the '30 windshield doesn't require vs. 28/29?

    Again, thank you all for the help.
  2. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,444


    Unfortunately I can't answer your questions but you have a great plan.
  3. Be sure to make friends with someone in the DMV before you go to far. Get their number and keep going back to them. Send them a Christmas card and keep them posted on the project.

    Charlie Stephens
  4. Thank you Brady1929. Looking forward to get started.

  5. Charlie, you are right on the money. I will have my frame inspected and registration done before starting any work.
    I went through the DMV nightmare process with my '36 truck when I used a custom frame and I even added YOM plates to make it harder but it all worked out at the end.
  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 17,579


    @roll of the dices congratulations on your new project. Your best bet is the search...several builds have went through the forums. You have been around for a bit and sometimes search the Hamber out and go through their thread posts and find projects that way.

    Hambers such as @Flop have done a few A roadsters/coupes and have quite detailed pics and he as most others readily answer queries.
    It's a full time job searching I know. The subrail kit to 32 has been done here. Maybe Youtube and perhaps the place who produced the kit has video support.

    If I see anything I will shoot it your way...
  7. 55styleliner
    Joined: May 11, 2015
    Posts: 557


    I’d use a 37-41 rear Banjo axle or if you want a 9” Speedway sells kits pretty cheap that includes the housing and axles. For an original 9” look for a 57-59 Ford car or 66-76 Bronco. The Bronco rear has the 5x5.5 lug pattern too. You can use a 33-36 rear spring or put a Model A rear crossmember in and use an A spring. If you use the later spring no floor hump is required.
    Stogy likes this.
  8. Lowtek32
    Joined: Aug 11, 2016
    Posts: 6


    Hope its ok to follow along. I have been working on this recently, truthfully,I don't like the visual mismatch at the wheel wells. Most pictures on the web are of stock wheel wells, probably coil over ,or notched for axle,probably transverse spring? Appearance aside, it looks to me as though the rumble seat could be retained as there is space to bring the frame up through the floor pan even to the seat base.
    It may be possible, as well, to
    construct a cross-member tight against it but i haven't mocked it up yet. Brookville andP&J's did similar work and rumble seat with Steadfast subrail width is dealt with in the HR link
    Thanks for posting this topic!
    Stogy likes this.
  9. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 17,579


  10. a36bonanza
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 25


  11. M42
    Joined: Feb 8, 2016
    Posts: 27


    chambies likes this.
  12. Great info. Thank you
    Subscribed to all threads mentioned.
    Stogy likes this.
  13. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191


    I am currently working on a 30 Model A on a 32 frame by Black Board Hotrods and using the Steadfast subrail kit. My build thread here on the HAMB is the Clark Coupe Build. I just did a 3" chop. I will be trimming the rear wheel wells to match the profile of the bottom of the subrails.
  14. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,171

    from West Oz

    I have nothing more technical to add, but keen to watch this build go ahead.
  15. M42, thank you now I get it and understand what lean back means
  16. etboy, nice build thank you for the info. I ike the idea you had with the front cowl to meet the frame.
  17. Motmo
    Joined: May 9, 2013
    Posts: 23


    I'm just getting started on a similar build. 30 roadster with a 59AB, T5 trans, pinched '32 frame by Blackboards with A front and rear crossmembers and a '40 rear end. I can't answer most of your questions, I'll be figuring all of that out as I go. I've been following some of the other threads mentioned above. So much great info here on the H.A.M.B!

    I can say that if you elect to go with a Blackboard frame get on the waiting list now, it's about a 3 month wait. Mine took a bit longer because I was interested in a 33 style X member he was prototyping. Gary at Blackboards was great to work with and helped me figure out exactly what I wanted/needed for my build.

    Have fun! Here's a couple pics of my frame with that X member that was worth waiting for.

    IMG_5370.JPG IMG_5374.JPG
    dwollam, waxhead and Stogy like this.
  18. Motmo, that looks pretty cool. I didn't realize they had a waiting list but I guess any reputable frame builder would have one.
    May I ask why the '33 style X-member. what's the benefit to it? Thx,
  19. i used a Blackboard frame on my 31. NON-pinched frame. Gary builds a great product.
    i also drilled all factory 32 holes and riveted side rails. for Orig. look
    all 39/40 driveline with an A model rear crossmember for QC
    the rear section i cut and remade floor using frame contours myself. and Quickchange clearance.
    i also used rumble decklid
    windshield i believe was chopped 4 in. i cannot quite remember.
    ill look for a few photos. it was a fun car to build.
    Andy @bali-rod

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 27, 2017
    dwollam, waxhead and Motmo like this.
  20. Motmo
    Joined: May 9, 2013
    Posts: 23


    For me it is mostly just looks. I'm not a huge fan a the tube style X members and liked the more "nostalgic" look of it. I wish I had the skill and time to collect and build a frame from original parts, so this is the next best option for me. He also recessed the boxing plates which is another small detail that I like.
    golferforpar likes this.
  21. Thank you for all the input, info and threads you suggested.
    I talked today to Gary at Blackboard and already gave my down payment to get on his waiting list. Hopefully in 3.5 months I will have a great foundation to start my project.
    I am back to collecting parts for now.
  22. Lowtek32
    Joined: Aug 11, 2016
    Posts: 6


    bali-rod The rear spreader bar =nice look
    bali-rod and straightupsix4 like this.
  23. AeroCraftsman
    Joined: Jul 29, 2004
    Posts: 329


  24. This is my roadster. Patiently waiting his turn.

    Attached Files:

    big duece likes this.
  25. El Jefe hemi
    Joined: Dec 19, 2017
    Posts: 8

    El Jefe hemi
    from BC Canada

    Invaluable info, thanks! Just joined and not sure how I would pull off my build without some of it. I too am building a 30 roadster with a 354 hemi and just waiting on my Blackboard pinched 32 style frame. Gary should have it for me in 1.5 - 2 months. He has been awesome to deal with and I was very impressed in meeting him, touring his shop and seeing his work. Great to see so many of you are using the same builder, it confirmes the right choice (and now I can see why the wait time :) ) . I will certainly spend some time checking out the links.....
  26. IMG_5501.JPG IMG_5502.JPG IMG_5504.JPG Here are a few photos of my recent steadfast installation in my '31 (So-cal pinched '32 chassis). I raised all my cross members up level with floor rails- Lowers the body to hide the body to frame joint a little over an inch. So I didn't use Steadfast's small brace (plug welded some square tubing inside the joint of the old floor rails to the Steadfast).
    Just traced the chassis cutout profile to then transfer to the wheelwell. Welded the end of the vertical profile back in to keep it looking finished.
    markin59 and waxhead like this.
  27. BlownMerc
    Joined: Mar 23, 2010
    Posts: 146

    from Jerome

    Building a '31 coupe on '32 rails. Love the info, thank you!
  28. Arnold, looks great. Thank you for that profile picture, it helps a lot

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