I think this is what you are looking for JustplainJ's 34 build http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464776
Tell you what, even if you cheat it forward an inch or so it looks better as a hiboy, and better as a fendered car too. When you put a dropped axle on an early Ford, and roll the caster back for better road manners it has the effect of just slightly moving the front wheels back in the fender arch. If you look at the side profile of most '33 '34 cars with fenders that are dropped low, you'll see this pretty quickly if they are on a factory frame. In the late eighties, a lot of the aftermarket frame guys started doing this as "standard" on their replacement chassis. You are in a perfect situation to do this now, so would consider it. Tack the new cross member in, mock up the front suspension and fender, and double check before you nail it all down. It takes a bit more effort to make your's one of the ones that's "so right"...
Most of the aftermarket type "A" cross members have some caster angle built in to them. They generally range from 5-7 degrees depending on who's you use. There will be detractors, but I very much prefer 7-8 degrees when all is said and done. I like to drive fast and I almost always use a large diameter steering wheel on stuff (can't stand the little thick padded 14" crap out there!) so low speed steering effort isn't too negatively effected. It sure makes things nice and stable pointed down the road at 85-90 though. I too applaud you wishes to do this right instead of simply run a fender less car with a Mustang II. The Mustang IIs set up correctly are awesome under these cars and ALMOST hidden by the fenders, but for fender less stuff it has to be right!
Let me ask are you going to run stock style hood sides and inner fenders or no hood or sides cause if you run them need to consider the effect on them the way a 33 grille attaches to em by moving the axle forward .Pic My old one
Yes if I ever find a set I will run the inner fenders. I have a stock hood. I'm leaving the stock axle location. It's chopped so I think it will look just fine and ride just fine as well.
I had a set and sold em on here awhile ago ,bought a pair from Dick Sherpio he is on here My spelling isnt the best .Whats your plans for the rear tail pan .Looking good.I ran a BBC in mine and it was tight!but ran a 69 mustang box on it which helped with the room in the engine bay
See if this helps. We did this in March so I still have some photos. IMPORTANT-install your sheet metal and radiator, hood, grill, if you have it. Make sure the seams suit you. The reason I say that, is they may have welded up your front axle center line hole[ if it had one], or/and got the M2 in the wrong place by just a little, for your set up. Once you are happy with the fit, brace top and bottom really good. My buddy had done this several times, so it was old hat to him. The front brace in the pics that you see, is placed so that we dropped a plumb bob thru the radiator mounting holes from the edge of the brace on the M2. After the cleanup and fitment of the new 33-34 cross member, [mine had the angle built in], put a small tack on each side and double check to your rear axle center line. At that point the plumb bob should drop right thru the mounting holes on your stock cross member. When it is all lined up, its time to weld. Here is a few reference photos.
Thanks cheepsk8. Here is my plan of attack. As seen in the picture below I am going to cut the radiator brackets off first, then comes the uppers, then I'm going to cut just the top of the x member right at the base of the inside frame rail (because this can not be accessed after the new x member is in place). Then I'm going to set up the new x member with a couple of tacks an check it. I'm going to leave the old x member there to hold everything in place till the new one is all welded up. Then I will make the 4 cuts on the bottom and the 4 cuts on the outside of the frame. The old x member should hold it in place without any additional bracing. And yes I was going to use a plumb bob to set and mark the holes for the radiator support (Great minds think alike). I'm going to mark the concrete floor and measure from the floor to the bracket so they are placed in the proper location. I don't do this kinda thing every day so I really gotta think it through and really appreciate all the input.
not junk at all, but in ten years this is the first time you have seen a thread about tearing out IFS????? not a place to debate comfort, just building traditional rods. looks like you have a good collection though
Here's something that might help you do this, based on first hand experience. I had to remove a poorly fitted MII front from a '36 Ford, but admittedly just the shock tower parts. I needed to salvage the parts to refit them. I was concerned about damaging the frame with the grinder in the removal process. I also had to bear in mind the need to refit the towers and the fact that there would be material turned to dust in the process that would need to be replaced. Quite a paradox. My solution was to get some flat bar / strap, the same thickness as the parts to be cut off and mark the parts to be cut off at the width of the flat bar, about an inch if i recall (away from the frame on your green lines for example). I then cut between the frame and the line and removed the tower. The removal of the bulk of the unnecessary bits meant that access to the remainder on the frame was much improved an I could cut / sand it off without fear of damaging the frame. I then cut back to the scribed line on the removed tower, put a good weld prep on everything and welded lengths of flat bar to restore the tower to it's proper size for re-installation. Worked a treat. You can take your repaired pieces to the swapmeet. Chris
You also asked which xmember to get the look you want. As I said, mine is a 33-34 with a 4" drop, Pete and jakes setup. My tire combo is 7:50 x 16 rear and 6:00 x16 front. With engine weightit sits just about right. I think it will settle a little more with sheet metal and body weight. The avitar photo is the latest one I have. I wanted to use a full spring, which is why I didn't go with the model A cross member. I did not want to be too low. That probably did not make any difference whatsoever. That all being said, I like the stance and the look of the I beam on my car. M2 s are fine, and I am sure they have their place, just not under my front end. Hope it goes smooth for you.
I'm not following you guys on the "why" ? Got any comparison pics? If you move the crossmember forward you have to chop the radiator 4" (actually redesign the whole bottom of the radiator). Then if the body is channeled you'll need to chop the radiator additionally same as the depth of the channel or more if its a wedge channel. That is unless you don't want any of the front sheet metal to line up. Changing to a little flatter crossmember than the stock 33/34 also gives you radiator issues at the lower hose. The radiator core is only 22"- how much do want or can afford to loose? If the wheel base change makes that much difference, it would be a lot easier and a whole lot cheaper go spring behind with a stock axle and leave the crossmember where its supposed to be. You get your lowereing and wheelbase change with two little brackets and a spring you'll be getting anyway. I ain't arguing with you guys I'm asking.
the suggestion on moving the axle forward has only to do with how the wheel centerline my look compared to the grill shell. In my worthless opinion the wheel centerline needs to be just slightly forward of the grill. As far as the radiator is concerned, the last 33 I worked on had a 502, flat style x member and a walker radiator with no cooling issues. Every 32 I worked had the same style x member installed and walker radiator, there was never any fitment problems or hose problems. I have never worked with a stock radiator, so I would not know about stock fitment issues.
On a stock 33/34 the radiator sits in front of the crossmember. after the mounting tabs and radiator feet the bottom of the tank is just above the bottom of the frame rail. its not on top of the crossmember like a 32. The lower hose rides right on top of the crossmember in the big dip and extra cove of the stock 33/34crossmember. I Certainly wouldn't say your opinion is worthless. "Wheel center line Slightly forward of the grille" Ok a 32 is pretty easy to visualize because the grill stands up straight and is relatively flat across the front. However the 33-34 grille has a whole lot more going on than the 32. They aren't straight up for starts and they are going in several directions at once. So it's hard for me tell what part of the grill should be behind the center line of the wheel. But let's just say its the line if site where the top of the tire intersects with the hood/grille line. Depending on the diameter of the tire you'll be moving the axle forward about 6". But If you pick the grille chin and want the spindle ( exact wheel center) slightly in front of that you'll need to move it almost a foot and this surely can't be what you are suggesting so I just put in here for reference. Do you have a pic of what you like ? That will help
I was on a mission since you posted that pic. http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod-parts/cooling-components/offset-hose-connectors.html Now how big is that thing? I'd like to know how far off the radiator hose nib it would be to the elbow.
It gives you an overall 2-1/2" raise or lower depending on how you use it. And the flanges are about 3/4" deep. The overall 2" deep from flange to flange and 1-7/8" dia inlets.
I wish I paid that for them when I picked them up. Wow and this. http://www.modelengineeringco.com/steercol.htm
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