Anyone got any frame and X bracket pics of what it takes to update a TH350 to 700R4 in a 36 Ford Frame? Mine looks like it has the CE style trans mount/frame kit for the TH350 but the stock 36 trans frame brackets are still there as well so it looks kinda tight. Was told I need to do some serious cutting on the frame to to the X member to make it wider for the 700R4 and new bottom plate as well. The rear is a 9 inch Ford. The 700R4 kit is pretty pricey so looking for any pointers before I jump in with a case of cutting wheels - or NOT. Cut and trim measurements would be very helpful as well. Got the 700R for a deal and would really like to make it work. thanks
You WILL have to do major cutting to fit the 700. check the CE catalog for a kit. good welding skills are a must to install
I did check with CE - not much info unless you BUY the kit. No details on how much to cut and no good pictures of what the kit looks like after installation or even the parts you get. Some basic measurements like you need X inches between the cutout or whatever would be helpful. I guess I can try to measure the trans and draw some conclusions. I am trying to make a decision whether I want tackle this or not. thanks for responding
Look at the link below and see if that will help you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300942
Here's some shots of my 35/6 frame setup for 700R. Note how much needs to come out with the cardboard mockup.
A TH 200R is a lot smaller transmission. About the same size as a Turbo 350. It would be easier to fit. Larry T
Did one a while back, Cut and moved the right inside rail over a few inches. Left inside rail was not touched, that way there is no modification to the pedal set up. Used a Chassis Engineering transmission kit and added to the plate on the right side. Took no time at all....
Go with the 200r4 as stated before. Its not that bad if the body is off the frame. Ive done them with the body on the frame before and its not fun.
Because I had more time than money, I did that conversion to our '36 without buying the kit, it was a bitch to say the least, mostly because the frame still had the original x frame center that needed to be removed, those rivets are in there for life, but the A/O, a grinder and BFH helped. I copied the picture of the 700r kit off the Weedeter website (back then it was a "New Product" and they had a bunch of pictures up) If you have the 350 set up in there already, I think you need to make the indentations in the front of the x member so that the 700 pan can clear, a longer bottom and a taller top "hump" (if that makes sense). I ended up using 1/4 plate for everything so this thing is pretty stout, I bolted everything in, then finished up by welding it all up. Its a tight fit, but nothing that will not allow the bottom plate to drop the tranny or pull the trans out and up from the front. Anyhow, pics are work a million so here are some. These are not in any particular order.
I saw the 700R4 kit from CE at the nats north. It appeared to bolt in after removing the stock torque box and some extra trimming on the frame. You could always weld the pieces together after the kit is installed. JMHO
53choptop said it! Them rivets are a real bitch to remove. I had a-lot ah fun removing the X frame center.
700R4 is a relatively long transmission; if you don't want the hassle, a 200 is about the same length as the 350 and will stand up if you're not racing or beating on the car. Just as an example I have experience with 80s Chevy Suburbans and to go from a TH400 to a 700R4 you have to move the crossmember back around 4-6 inches to a second set of holes to make the swap.
I did about the same as 53choptop. I have more time than money. This one is from my 40 pickup with a 39 car frame. Here is a build thread on my pickup; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=527407
Here is what I did on my 36 3W...........I designed it so the tranny could be dropped from the bottom if necessary.
This is amazing info with all the different designs you guys came up with! I really didn't want to deal with taking the body off but it looks like it would be a tough project without topside access to the frame rails. Plus that's a lot of metal dust to eat laying your back with a grinder. MJ40's approach looks like it might be the easiest to tackle with the body on. Any thoughts besides borrow a plasma cutter?
My thoughts on doing it with the body on, unless you can anchor down the frame, its probably not a good idea. Again I may be wrong. Once you remove that center section, the frame may flex, the front and rear crossmembers are too far apart to keep it from not flexing. I am not saying it cannot be done, I am guessing the body can be used to keep the frame from flexing. BTW, mj40's, looking at your design, I just realized why my 700 is so tight, the bottom plate needs a bit of drop!!!! EUREKA,,, sometimes the answer is right in front of you, the funny thing is I have been following your build thread really closely and never saw that. GRACIAS!!!
Is the flex plate on 200R4 the same as a 700R4? I found one with a fresh rebuild so looking at that as an option to modifying the frame. The floors and tunnel(no mods to the stock firewall) were replaced about 10 years ago with what appears to be a Bitchin floorpan set. I really don't want to get into cutting the floors, tunnels, etc to use the 700R4. Anyone have this setup and did you have to widen the tunnel? thanks
I believe the flex plates are the same. My 36 3W had a bitch'n floor installed when I got it. I cut the fire wall back 2 inches to move the SBC back a bit for more clearance up front. That in turn pushed the 700R4 back too. I had to cut out the hump and replace it with a larger one. I doubt you will fit it in without doing so. If that is an issue, I would really look at a 200R4, a bit shorter.
the200r4 is the same size as a turbo 350, however the issue is with the tranny pan..it extends way back resulting in having to notch the two x member rails like mj did,,the trans mount for the 200 r4 is 6 inches further back than a 350, but you can still use your existing driveshaft(if you have one)without cutting it,,spoke to the guys at gearstar transmissions because im considering doing this same swap myself this winter, IMO it would be easier with the body off and the chassis temporarily cross braced if you have to cut the x member ,,just my 2 cents hope it helped
The Jalopy Journal
