I have thought long and hard before I posted this question. I have done hours and hours of research on this website and many more. I am building a 1930 Model A with an EAB flathead from a 1952 Ford. I’m trying to collect all the pieces and learn what I need so when I go to build it I’m ready. I have a steering column out of a 1948-1952 ford pick up truck. I have a running flathead. I don’t think I’m going to drop the front axle. I understand about splitting the Wishbones. I will have a professional welder do all the welding. I want to try to make my first build as simple as possible. I have Vern Tardels book called "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod". I’ve read it and keep reading it. It refers to building a 1932, which I don’t have. So things are different. I’m wondering if there is a thread here on this website that goes through a build from beginning to end on what needs to be done and how to do it. I understand a lot of you will say I’m in over my head. Maybe so, but I will get this thing built. Just looking for any help that you could provide. Thank you.
You want Vern Tardel's book "Hot Rod Your Model A". It's a step by step guide to putting an EAB flathead V8 in a '29 Tudor sedan, pretty much exactly what you are doing. About $70.00 and worth every penny to a new builder.
Tardel also had a book "How to Build a V8 A" that covered the Bishop roadster about 25 years ago, used it to build my 28 in the 90's and my 30 Sport Coupe. What you use as a rearend and transmission will make a big difference. I built my own rear crossmember and used an adapter available from Model A parts dealers to mount stock pedals on the V8 trans, I also used the bracket to mount the unsplit wishbone on the 28. I'm running a 52 F1 steering box that has had the mounting flange cut off and a Model A flange welded on so I could move it closer to the frame rail, the sector shafts are the same size so not a tough job. Didn't find a good picture of the crossmember but put in the best one I could find, made out of 2" square tubing.
You have the wants - some books to go over and the help of the HAMB guys. Actually waiting for some guys up in your part of the world to chime in. They might be close enough to lend some on-sight direction. If using the A frame yo will need to box it up for strength.
I have both of Vern Tardel's books on flatheads in Model A's This one with Mike Bishop How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod (Motorbooks Workshop): Bishop, Mike: 0752748309005: Amazon.com: Books Plus this one that is out of print. Hot rods (verntardel.com) I'd imagine that issues with the printers are the reason he doesn't have any more for sale. Well worth 75 dollars if you can find one for that. Best bet on finding one if one doesn't find you is at swap meets or vendors at shows. Depending on what trans you run you may or may not have to split the bones. The split bones thing started because oil pans or transmissions wouldn't clear the stock bones and not to make it handle better. Even if you run a dropped axle the bones will stay in the same relation to the frame rails and engine and trans. Still if you aren't sure on something, ask first and study the answers and sort them out. It doesn't take long to tell who gives the solid well thought out and proven answers and who are the BS artists in this group.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/aarons-29-av8-coupe-build.1027487/ I did a video series of my 29 AV8 build. Check it out, it may answer most of your questions.
Ben make sure you follow @IronTrap on Instagram, particularly his Irontrap Finds page. Once you know what you want reach out to Matt with a shopping list, his prices are good and he cant be too far from you. He also built a AV8 from scratch on his youtube channel which is great watching too.
Thanks for all the help. Now that swap meets are opening up and car shows, I hope to gain some knowledge. It would be helpful to see some guys at shows who actually built the cars. I have met a few who say they built the car and when i ask certain questions, i realize they did not. Every year, a local show/swap meet has all early fords only. But it has been cancelled for two years now. This would be the place to go for information. Vern Tardel's book "Hot Rod Your Model A" is not available. hopefully a swap meet will come up that i can find it. My tudor, i am told has juice brakes already from a 1940 truck. I have the flathead. I want to put in a c4 which i have. I do not have the adapter kit yet. I would like to keep the rear end stock. Again, i want this to be a simple build so i can learn.
Buy this book. They have it in stock and it has a LOT of the info you need. I've been reading it cover to cover the last month or so. It focuses on building a Model A Roadster on an A chassis. https://www.amazon.com/Build-Traditional-Ford-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760309000/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1MR2RMGAJMKMP&dchild=1&keywords=how+to+build+a+traditional+ford+hot+rod&qid=1625580228&sprefix=How+to+build+a+trad,aps,399&sr=8-1
Mating the C4 to the model A diff will be problematic not only requiring an adaptor to the flathead but as the C4 is an open driveshaft and your tudor with have a torque tube that needs to be resolved, although convserions are done. If you are married to the idea of the C4, for me it would be an oppurtune time to put a stronger diff in. Is there any reason why you arent going with a manual like a 39 box considering everything else you are mentioning puts the car in a more traditional style. If there is already juice brakes how has the master cyclinder been installed? Maybe most of the hard work re fitting pedals etc has been done? Post pics, LOTS of pics of what you have so we can help, particularly others with much more knowledge than me. Just please post them full size.
Unless you have a physical necessity for an auto trans I would reconsider. I know its done, I know you could buy a new 53 merc with an auto trans behind a flathead. One of the nice things about flathead cars is the low end torque and the sensation of accelerarion going through gears. It's certainly not high hp so if you lose that feeling your loosing alot in my opinion. Where are you in MA? I might not be that far away. Ive built flathead cars, I drive a flathead car. Ive built an AV8.
I do not have a good reason for the automatic other than i thought it would be easier for me. You guys say no, so no it is. I will sell the c4. I will start looking for a manual trans. I saved the pedals from the model A. There is no master in the car. just the backing plates with wheel cylinders and stubs of brake line. adam401. I may take you up on an educational visit if its ok with you. I will pm you and maybe i can come down in a few weeks. I am a little more than 1 hour away Thanks for the help
I don't have much technical advise for you, but I will tell you sorting out and finding info, even on the H.A.M.B. can be a daunting task. I have had better luck sorting through actual build threads here for good pics and AV8 engineering advise. Start a build thread, post pics, and ask the questions if you cant find the answer after a quick search. I started out just wanting a simple AV8, and now it has spiraled out of control into a 40K pile of parts. KEEP IT SIMPLE or it will never get done unless you have endless funds. Iron Trap on youtube has been very inspiring. Great info. Millworks Hot Rods has good parts, Vern Tardel had good parts, Speedway Motors has good stuff too. Go to local junkyards, you may get lucky for parts. You may need a local machine shop for certain odd jobs. If you find an old guy at a swapmeet or show, ask questions. And boxing a frame is dependant on the power, crossmembers, and condition of the frame. A stock flatty in a nice clean frame will not need boxing. A hopped up flatty in a rusted and patched frame without x-bracing will need boxing. All AV8s do not need boxing. Just depends on the build era, budget, style, and personal preference. And don't sell or throw away anything until you have your car mocked up. A single part you get rid of may screw you up for months. Good luck. I'm still trying to figure mine out...
^^^^^^^^ Also the HAMB search engine is not very good I just use my regular internet search engine and it will provide the relevant information inside jalopyjournal without looking through alot of different threads
Yea, ditto, just add HAMB to the end of whatever your searching for and it will come up with completely different threads than if you used the HAMBs search engine.
Here is the great advice I found on the hamb a decade ago. I copied it for future reference but don't remember who gave this advice. These are his words, not mine: "I don't know if anyone else has noticed but the search on here doesn't pick up on queries under 4 letters. I know I've had to dig up information on my engine and searching for "235" would be incredibly helpful. How many threads on T5's have there been? Maybe so many because you can't search for it. The trick around this is a site specific search on google. Here's what's up. If you search google by just punching something in, say 235 you'll get a million hits. I know the info I need is on here so I can make it site specific by adding "site:jalopyjournal.com" after what I'm searching for. So if I type this in: 235 site:jalopyjournal.com it'll search just this site for 235 maybe this'll help some folks..."
Thanks for all the help. I have been looking at the builds. They do help a lot. I have been in contact with Adam401 and he seems to know a lot. I look forward to visiting him.
There are lots of people around New England to give you pointers and tips. You might want to schedule in a trip to Winterport Dragway in August to the Pinetree Jamboree. Send me a pm if you have any specific questions and I'll give you my cell to call.
Anybody checking these Model A frames for 'sagging' at or around the firewalls? A good carpenter's 48" straightedge along the top of the rails (mind the drivers side, as the large bore thru the 'web' of the rail is a weak spot, after 90 years 'standing' under weight of drive train) Body on it? Mind the trailing vertical lower edge of the hood, as it will be 'opened up' at the bottom, signaling some 'disappointed' sheet metal, resultant of a bent frame...
It took me quite a few frames to find one with numbers, that wasn't bent, torched, pitted, or cracked. I will be reinforcing the steering box hole, adding a modified 32' K-member, creating similar rear extensions to make a sort of X- member, and welding up any un used holes. If done right, this should make for a very strong unboxed frame and mimic something Ford could have engineered . I personally blame rough roads over static weight, but that's just my opinion. Some of these frames, even with a banger, have had a hard life. But, yes, very important to check for flatness and squareness.
It's really too bad that Tardel doesn't have much in stock anymore. If it is health or time related, It would have been cool for someone with the tech to carry on those parts and expand the line. Same with Havlir House of Fab. There were some good parts that have disappeared that really made building an AV8 easier. I'm a big fan of using vintage parts, but to be able to build a brand new correct looking AV8 would be cool too, and probably cheaper and faster. Sorry if this is off topic, just got me thinking how hard it was to find these parts in good condition. It's getting very difficult to find good Henry iron and steel.
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