Technical Tired of changing brake switches

I had 2 pressure switches fail me, one was from CPP brakes (brand new and leaked) and the other was from NAPA. I got a couple on eBay, low pressure and the 1st one is probably 2 years old and still works. I try not to stand on the brake pedal at long lights, I set the parking brake a couple of notches so it doesn't roll.

 

I am running LED’s that’s the part that baffles me. I used inline pressure switches for years and years with no issues. Now I get a few months. This one was leaking around the crimp. It was crazy though. I would walk out into the garage and see a glow on the door. Hit the pedal and it would go away for a week or so.....

 

ECI in Vernon Ct makes one that works great!

 

I also went to LED bulbs in my tail lights. They served a two fold reason, brighter brake lights compared to the normal bulb and better life span on the switch.

I don’t think I have swapped a switch since I went to LED bulbs but on the flip side I have a made in the USA NORS switch I bought last year at the swap meet.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

Matt also sells an online switch,

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ake-light-switch-again.1097327/#post-12745932

Cliff Ramsdell

 

I have had much better service with the GM lever type switch.

 

I've been using the same hydraulically activated brake light switch for almost 30-years and never had a failure, averaging 2k3k miles a year. It's an original GM switch from the '30's and I changed the system over to DOT5 at least 25 years ago. I also have converted my wiring to 12v.

 

I think it came from Summit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-sw42/overview/

 

I'm having a simular problem, But if the switch is just a gate, why should it matter which wire is connected to which post?

 

That's the one I'm burning up. Can't figure out why, but it's an aftermarket wire harness, so who knows where to look?

 

Not to take this thread off in a different direction; but what is the failure mode of the switch? Are the contacts burning away, the plastic housing melting letting the contacts move, or is the spring breaking?
Where are the switches sourced from? Do they seem quality or China cheap?

 

Most are probably cheap imported crap these days. I found a good seller on eBay and I ordered 2 switches, one is still in the glove box. It trips at 45 PSI, the NAPA one I had to stand on the pedal most of the time so it would work. I check all my lights once a week, definitely the brake lights after I come in late at night. I had more mechanical ones fail on me over the years.

 

Got mine from SPEEDWAY. The contacts inside don't just make an electrical connection when moved, they heat up hot enough to scorch the contacts, and singe the plastic around them.

 

My failures were with brake light always on. After several within a few years, I went to the lever arm switch and have not had another failure on the 51. Still running the hydraulic pressure brake switch on the Model A without failures.

 

In the bottom of the box of the last Napa one I got said caution not compatible with dot 5 or other synthetic fluids. Try your local Harley dealer, maybe theirs are not off shore junk.

 

IME they just stop turning on the brake lights, or rather the switch fails to complete the circuit, & brake lights fail to come on. No external leakage (though some apparently also leak), they just stop working. It is a sealed unit, so unless you cut it open there's no way to tell why it failed.

 

And apparently this is not an issue isolated to classic American cars. Some interesting reading on the topic here:
https://www.sw-em.com/hydraulic brake light switches notes.htm

 

Intermittent operation of the brake lights shouldn't overload a switch like you are describing.
Maybe try a Standard Motor Products SLS43 looks like it is the same style as the Speedway switch; but may be better inside.

 

Here's the perfect answer to the brake light switch problem:

 

Man, the more I look into this, the more of a problem it appears to be. Subaru had to recall a couple hundred thousand vehicles due to failing brake light pressure switches. Daimler Trucks also had to do a recall. And most interesting is the Eaton Road Ranger service bulletin describing the problems brake pressure switches are causing with their transmissions, can even lead to failure of the torque converter. Use of unapproved switch can cancel warranty coverage. Here's the service bulletin, with the part # to the new and improved switch. Anyone want to take a chance and order one from your local truck parts place and see if it's a potential replacement for brake light switches on our hot rods?

http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcpl...eased&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=RR_TRIB-9704

 

Also, Honeywell has this switch they say that they've experienced zero failure with in testing:
https://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=47669&la_id=1

Here's more info: https://sensing.honeywell.com/honey...sure-switches-product-sheet-50094081-5-en.pdf

There's contact information to Honeywell on the pdf, maybe call them and find out where to purchase.

 

That would be a good case to use a relay.

 

That’s funny, right there

 

I use a lot of the 5000 series at work for hydraulic and air, the rate of failure is pretty low. They have 3 tabs for NO or NC, you just need the right pressure. I did see a switch that was being replaced monthly, being used as a back up light switch in a port on the trans. When it was my turn to replace it I cut it open, found the contact set destroyed, checked the line pressure on the trans, ordered correct switch and haven't had a problem since.

Just make sure the switch is the right pressure and pipe thread (not O ring base/boss).

 

I replaced the original pressure switch on GPs, it lasted maybe a year or two. Come one springtime after a long winter in the garage, no brake lights. It showed continuity with a DVOM when brake pedal was pushed but wouldn't pass any real juice for some reason. I put the 50+ year old switch back in and it's worked fine ever since.

 

I started out with a Speedway pressure switch mounted to a port on the master cylinder. You had to be at half pedal before it would turn on the brake lights. I changed to the mechanical style bobd1976 posted the pic of, once adjusted, no more problems. Barely mash the pedal, you have brake lights.

 

The last one that just rolled out of here,,, I told him he needs a mechanical switch. He cheaped out at the very end and didn’t want to pay for that.
I told him the pressure switch will fail, so at least I made it super easy “FOR YOU TO CHANGE” and don’t expect me to change it or warranty it or even look at.

 

I went thru a lot of the cheap plastic Ford switches. Now I buy the repro switches for 55 chevy. They hold up. I also use the Delco switches as in post 17. They come in left and right and last for years

 

I originally ran DOT 3 brake fluid thru my Jeepster's original switch, lasted a good 25 years.
I changed to DOT 5 , and now have to swap switches every 1-2 years. I have tried the Harley-Davidson switch,
heavy duty GM switch and switches from different parts houses (NAPA,Auto Bone, OReally, etc.).
Still looking for a better switch!