Technical 1950 Buick Engine Troubles/Won't Start

Hey Guys. As you all know I had another thread about this car as I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. Some of the suggestions were to get it running first & then decide. I took that advice & tried to do a compression test today with no avail. I'm literally getting a zero reading on every cylinder, which to me seems like I'm not doing something right. There should be some kind of reading on each cylinder good or bad right? I removed all the spark plugs, as well as the coil wire & then planed the compression test in cylinder 1 hole & cranked the motor. I did this to all cylinders & my gauge shows nothing. Could this indicate a broken timing chain? I've attached some links to some videos I took to show you what I've got. Any suggestions would be great. Seems like this car is getting worse & worse by the day. I'm starting to think I bought some really expensive yard art. Ughhhhh!!!!
Thanks Guys
Josh

Fan Moving


Rocker Arm


Compression Test



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start by finding when the #1 piston is at the top of it's stroke...maybe use the straw-in-the-spark-plug-hole method? see where the rocker arms are when the piston is at the top, then turn the engine one revolution and see where the rocker arms are.

seems one of the rockers is not moving very far, either.

Also looks nice and dirty under the valve cover, like the engine got a "krylon rebuild"

 

Are the valves adjusted correctly?? As Jim says, one rocker is not moving as much as the rest (the 5th in from nearest to you) it also has the MOST thread sticking up compared to the rest of the adjusters..

 

You would think you get something. If you hold your thumb over the spark plug hole is there any suck-blow? Chain can't be completely broken. Cams turning.If you have an air compressor it might be fun to pump some air in through the spark plug hole and see where it's coming out. I take an old spark plug and remove the porcelain. No I don't bash it out with a hammer and punch. Cut the crimp at the top of the steel part that is holding the porcelain in. Then drive it out in one neat piece. I braze in an air fitting and give it a shot. listen to see where it's coming out.

 

The sound the starter is making says you indeed have compression. Try another gauge and/or stick your finger in the hole and crank the motor. Compression should blow your finger out of the hole.
Why that one rocker is backed off should be investigated before you go much further

 

Can't have a broken chain , if the cam turns, which it obviously does. (as Rich said) Or do they have gears?
Probably doing something wrong with compression tester. Should have something..somewhere.
Now, if a cam lobe was worn down, as it appears to be, the adjuster would be screwed down ,not up.
So, most likely, the seller knew about it, and put in a non stock, longer tappet and or pushrod.
There should be a side cover there so you can see what's going on with it.
Still should start, or fire or something. Where did you get this thing? Ebay?

 

I'll try to do some of this stuff tomorrow & see where I'm at. Thanks fellas. I feel like I've got a little hope.


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I cranked the engine today & the carburetor has air sucking in & I do feel air blowing out the spark plug holes, so I don't know why that gauge isn't working. I'll check the timing & the push rid that isn't moving properly.


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After I've done all of this & i find that I can't get spark as well where should I start looking?


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I can't help but notice I don't see oil getting to the valve train either


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So I corrected the push rod. It just needed to be adjusted. I think the hydraulic lifter was stuck. After I adjusted it it works fine. Also I checked the timing and spark. I definitely have spark as you can see from the video. I also got a video of the car making a few explosions, but the camera didn't pick up the explosion sound.

Spark Video



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Maybe I need to rebuild the carb? Not getting fuel possibly?


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Here's a video of the explosion or combustion.




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Can you poor some gas down the carb? When you say you checked the timing, you mean the crank and valve timing don't you?


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I tried gas down the carb & got a loud explosion, but nothing else. For timing I aligned timing mark on flywheel to timing mark on timing hole. I made sure the rotor was lined up with the #1 plug wire & that all the plugs wires were connected in the proper firing order. Setting timing can't be done until car is running. You are correct. Thanks


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Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and spin the motor with the plugs out and coil wire out also. You should be getting a good fuel flow. If not, find out why. Plugged fuel line? Fuel filter. Fuel pump done for? just do a logical progression. Did you find out the deal on your compression tester?

 

I'm talking about valve timing. Bring the number 1 cylinder to TDC ( top dead center. Check to make sure both the valves are closed on number one, and then see wear the rotor points. If both valves aren't closed with #1 at TDC, the timing gears are off


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How, exactly , did you correct the pushrod, if you don't mind ?

 

I took the pushrod cover off. I didn't see any visual damage. Adjusted the screw on top off the pushrod & slowly cranked the motor by hand with a breaker bar. After a few rotations with no issues I hooked everything back up & cranked the motor & it looks like it resolved the problem. Didn't I do something wrong?


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There usually is a valve clearance specified by the manufacturer. That is why they put adjusters on the rocker arms. Do you have a manual? You might look at the large online auction site and get a Motors Manual that covers 1950. Pretty cheap info there.

 

Some of those were solid lifters and some were hydraulics, depending on model. Both have adjusters.
Did you take the lifter out and look at the bottom? Did you compare it to the one next to it? Did you adjust it at lash, on the heel of the cam lobe? Did the adjuster end up in a lower position?
Lots of questions, I know, but this isn't easy , via cyberspace.

 

Am I correct, you have a video starting this car four years ago? Or is this a different car? Special or Super? Standard or Dynaflo

Ben

 

This is a different car. The first one in the video was a special/dynaflow. I've never had this motor apart. This one is also a Special, but it has the manual trans.


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Never looked at lifters. No didn't adjust at lash. Yes, adjuster is in a lower position now.


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Thanks for all the help fellas.


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Then how did you adjust it? Pulling teeth for vague answers isn't going to help you here, bud.

 

Sorry mark. I'm not trying to be vague. In post #19 I tried to answer this question. I think. I'm really not trying to be vague. Just trying to learn & being that I don't have an understanding of some of this stuff makes it hard to answer some of the questions being posed. I really appreciate your help. If I didn't answer your question in post #19 let me know & I'll try to give you a better answer.


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Okay, you were missing a bunch of cam lift on that one rocker. We're trying to figure out where it went.
Was the lock nut loose or tight? Does it's position look like the ones next to it now? Was the pushrod loose and flopping around at any time, before you supposedly adjusted it?
Still don't know if you've got hydraulics or not.
Never mind the videos . Next time you take something apart, take pictures and post them, okay?

 

Yes. Actually the push rod was loose in its hole kind of flopping around. I loosened the nut & then used a screw driver to adjust the screw on top of the ticker until it was touching the push rod & about the same amount of threads were showing like the rest & then I tightened the nut again. Copy that on the videos. Just trying to help. I figured if you can see & hear what's going on it would help. I haven't really taken anything apart. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, rotor, cap, points, new battery that I keep on a charger, & neg & positive battery cables.
Thanks


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That's kind of like why a manual might help. I assume the lifter was all the way down when you adjusted it? If you have hydraulic lifters, your adjust may not be to bad. If you have soilds you are to tight and that is how you get burned valves. Are you selling this car or wanting to drive it?