I converted to front disc brakes a '65 Corvair, the car is not mine. Wheels are American Torq Thrust D and I had to put in longer 7/16-20 studs and 2mm thick spacers. The car was driven maybe 10 miles before the left front wheel started to come loose, I retightened the lug nuts thinking to myself : how could I forget to tighten 3 nuts? Less than 1 mile later 2 of the nuts are loose again. Now I think there's something else. I remove the wheel then it hits me : there's actually nothing centering the wheel. I reused the conical lug nuts that were on the car but my guess is they allow for some movement and allowing the nuts to come loose. My question is : With those wheel will the use of the conical ET type solve my problem or am I misleading? That big flat surface that begs for a flat washer, but ARE recommends the 60° conical nuts. Those wheels were on the car prior, without any issues.
They need conical nuts, you can see the taper in the seat. It would also benefit form hub-centric rings to take the play out of the hub/wheel interface. If you haven't come across the rings they fit inside the wheel and are an interference fit over the centre of the hub. any decent parts store will have them or a tyre/wheel joint. You need to measure and work out what size you need.
Are you sure the studs were fully seated in the rotor when you changed to longer ones? Why the use of the spacer? Does the other side have the same problem? The conical lugs should center the wheel with no problem, as long as you tighten them in the correct pattern.
I think those wheels need shanked nuts with a washer. This part is correct. With shanked wheel nuts (and tapered too) it is a real good idea to use hub-centric rings.
Both Jegs and speedway list a 60* conical seat lug nut for TQD if the lug holes considerably larger than the stud then it might need something like this. I think these are for a 5/8 hole But you said the wheels were on prior. So make sure the studs are seated.
@chrisp How old are the wheels??? Older versions used the shank style nuts, and the newer ones use 60* conical. Not sure when it changed. The @anthony myrick Speedway and Jegs recommendation of 60* conical is for the newer wheels. Here are a couple of threads with info. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/torque-thrust-d-vs-original.1089492/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-torque-thrust-vs-brand-new.1163935/
Info I am seeing says that 60 degree conical is correct for the currently produced and sold wheels, but not the older ones.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ My best guess would be that the longer studs he fitted are bottoming out in the dome end nuts, possibly only just. But the pic of the wheel he posted looks like it should use shank style nuts with washers.
Kinda does to me too But the taper is messing with my head I guess measuring the size of the stud hole would help
Thanks for all the replies, I didn't know rings existed for this kind of things, but in 30 years, it's the first time I deal with aluminum wheels, there's a 2018 date on them so they are 60° conical. Only the left front wheel does that. It was a drum car prior so the studs were too short because the discs are thicker. The spacer is to clear the caliper. I will order the rings, I was taking a bunch of measurements, luckily I found 1 company who carries them despite the odd dimensions. I will also get the extended conical lug nuts because they have the correct diameters of 0.62 for the 0.63 studs hole diameters unlike shank type that are too big. I just need to double check the depth between the Cragar and Billet Specialties. Edit : no the nuts are not bottoming out. I checked them at the time of the conversion without the wheel to see how much room I had.
Like others said , was stud's seated @ first Torque ? Mabey Yes , maybe No. Looks by pic Lugs bottom out @ top of stud . Shiny at the top start of thread ? A Measurement of he hole will tell you what size OD of shank needed Even on a 60 deg, A shank can be used. With correct OD shank size . If you want to use, IF Originally a 60 deg Can be added again , I donot know if 60 deg befor or after Forged ? Be aware of , there are many cheap Lugs & studs being sold , & should Not be used Materials use and thread pitch and depth are incorrect. Also a measurement of the thickness of the flange on rim / wheel needs to be noted for correct length of shank.
@chrisp Can you post some close up pics of the stud holes and their seats. I am still thinking you need these..... https://www.burtonpower.com/graysto...xgD7UdVFdHnlBxIHMTEM0MQCXPT2ShnnngVsJX8CdiYfX Being 5/8" shank diameter, they will fit the 0.63" holes in the wheels.
The holes are 0.63", but the studs are 7/16 so that's loose to say the least. From what I understood the manufacturer make a distinction between shank and extended, even if physically it serves the same function. All the shank nuts I have seen are bigger than 0.63" at least for a 7/16 stud. As Zuffen pointed out there's a taper for the nuts and as Anthony showed, Speedway and Jegs say it's a 60° conical seat. I checked the date per Twenty8 advice to lift any doubt. They recent wheels. As you can see, there's no way that they bottom out. I don't see how I could not have seated the studs correctly, I did them all at the same time using the same method. I'm always open at the possibility that I screwed up, maybe I didn't torque that wheel correctly the first time, maybe the stud were not seating correctly, but after I retorqued the studs they should have been pulled tight, instead 2 nuts came loose in about a mile of driving.
Looking at the thickness of the wheel below the taper and the length of the wheel studs...it doesn't appear that there would be a lot of thread holding the lugnut. I'm wondering if you might need longer wheel studs?
You should be able to see what wheel / Rim's Taper or Not , We are not there , pics help some . There is Way More manufacturers out there Then what Summit , Jegs ,S-W carry & Sell use a Sharpe maker or lay out die On wheel & lug to see if making full Seat tapper contact..... Just some examples below in pic
Those studs don't look long enough. With the wheels on, it appears like there would not be much thread engagement. Might just be optics, but you could check. Alternatively, these nuts as posted by Anthony might do the trick.
The stud at the top of this picture looks strange to me. It looks like the end of the stud has been ground off flat and square. Isn't here usually a slight taper on the end of the stud to make it easier to engage the threads in the lug nut?
American Racing makes Torq Thrust wheels that take tapered lug nuts and ones that take shank lug nuts (TTO). I don't see any seat for a tapered lug nut from here...id use the shank style with a washer. Make sure the shank does not extend beyond the plane of the back of the wheel or it won't tighten. We've all seen aluminum wheels with lug nuts stuck in the wheel with mushroomed lug nuts. The lug nuts center the wheel. Mag wheels are not made to be hub centric any specific car to my knowledge. The hubs are made in a universal larger size that would work in a variety of 4 3/4" lug patterns for example. Lastly, since the same wheels were on the cat with the same incorrect lug nuts and it was fine...id suspect what you changed. The studs that came in the rotors would have been fine with the proper shank lug nuts. You shouldn't have needed longer studs. Where were those longer studs made? Check the old studs and see if the lug nuts like those threads better.
Yep. ,63 is super super super close to 5/8 There’s 5/8 shank lugs with a taper hub centric spacers will help have you contacted American racing?
@chrisp can you see a taper in the wheels for a tapered lug nut? It might be pic angles, etc, but I can’t see a taper. I figure you have eyes and fingers on it, so you’re the best source
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