Technical Rust conversion coating

Got a vehicle I just want to use as a worker. Don’t wanna put a lot into it. Got it running good and body not too bad but tuning the corner from surface rust to medium serious rust underneath. Structurally ok but dont wanna let rust underneath get worse. There’s so many supposed rust conversion products out there ur head hurts trying to figure out which actually works? I’ve seen a few that claim to convert rust to a blackish coating suitable as base for paint or undercoat? Thoughts on what the best stuff is?

 

Not really a converter, I believe it's more like an encapsulater. But it works very well to stop rust and provide a durable paintable surface.

 

^^^^^^^I've used it on car frames and bodies with excellent results. Brushing it on works really well. Read the directions carefully as you need to get the primer you're going to use for your color coat on while the POR 15 is tacky.

 

I used some rusty metal primer. The generic rustoleum stuff on my bus
Cleaned and wire brushed.
Applied the primer and let it dry overnight. Shot some cheap chassis black on it. Still holding up good.

 

I wrote that technique 30 years ago.

 

I'm also from the Northeast salt belt. I know exactly what you describe as medium/serious rust, which is a scaly mess. You would have to needle scale all the scaling off if you wanted to use the rust paints/convertors.

Guys from down south and out west don't have that extreme scaling, so their results won't have the results here.

Oiling is the only thing that will slow it down if it is layered scaling. If you coat over the scale, the rusting keeps going, if not worse due to trapping salts and moisture.

 

I use OSPHO but there are also other fine products.
Look here:
https://www.carbibles.com/best-rust-converter/

 

I have a 1951 Ford that had moderate rust. In 1987, I got it up in the air about 3 feet and laid under it all winter with a sandblaster (the suspension was removed). I didn't get it down to bare shiny metal, but did remove all the loose stuff. After I finished a section, I used POR-15 to paint it. It's still good.

 

Here is a little video you might enjoy

 

Great test for coatings.
Vic

 

I wish that I could remember the name of the stuff, rust encapsulater, at Pep Boy's. It's black in an aerosol can. I have it on my '27 Coupe. Works very well with no rust coming through or spreading for 7 years now.

 

i like the Carbibles rating a bunch. Their #1 is Corroseal looks right & pretty inexpensive for coverage. Permatex stuff looks great but expensive to to entire underside.

 

The LocTite stuff is a mess, works well in converting rust to iron.
The Rustoleum spray seems to work, time will tell

 

Spray grease, look it up on google.. The Luberplate stuff is black, it hardens and it kills rust. Nothing kills rust like oil.. This is the first coat, you can see the virgin rusted steel thru the frame holes.. The rusted steel sucked this grease right up.. Funny, after I did this to my car, it seemed to drive better and went down the road more quietly, probably just wishful thinking..

If you go this route keep it away from rubber by spraying the rubber down first with silicon spray..

 

I have a couple of never opened quarts of Corroless I got years back. I presume th same company that makes Corroseal. Eastwood use to sell Corroless and then quit. Has anyone here had any dealings with Corroless? At the time it was supposed to be the #1 product to reason I haven't used it yet is that I like to get rid of rust by blasting.

For inside frames, rocker panels, you can't beat the Waxoyl spray oil/wax products!

 

You can convert rust all you like. What you put over it to prevent returning is more important. Most of you buy black moisture cured urethane and think it's going to seal the rust forever. That's what I thought years ago. Let's go into the paint business. A permanent type bridge primer is developed by the Mobay chemical company that is moisture cured and is loaded with aluminum flake. The aluminum flake in layers cuts off the oxygen in the resin blocks the moisture. It will actually sucks the moisture out of the steel. It's the coatings industry standard and most anti-corrosive primer there is. It sunlight stable, sandable, and dries toothy for paint adhesion

Now the clear moisture cured urethane is used to seal concrete and wood floors it allows it to breathe. So now these guys are painting the bottoms of their cars they want black. So now will substitute black pigment to the clear making it the most powerful rust paint since the dawn of mankind. One man started this 30 years ago and the rest of the companies followed.

 

There’s a HAMB member if I remember correctly that makes a really good rust sealer and converter that is silver in color.

Eastwood copied it but if you look you should be able to get it from the originator.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/eastwood-knocked-me-off.1144071/

 

Is this the Grease Spray? https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...MI2ZOnvLL_5QIVApSzCh06TAGbEAQYASABEgJ7svD_BwE

 

Spray grease is infused with calcium sulfonate. This is your active ingredient in undercoating, wax oil treatments, and cavity waxes. Many companies offer this. Spray cans work nice in getting the hard-to-reach areas like rockers.It should be applied every year

 

Pats55, any comment on Corroless.

 

Use the POR15 METAL PREP. works amazing

 

Is the por15 metal prep the part that actually does the rust conversion?

 

This is an alkyd paint. Been around for many years. It's a low-cost coating that works fairly well. I would use a good metal prep with zinc before applying it that would add some increased corrosion protection.

 

So is it worthwhile to use? Any particular brand of metal prep with zinc?

 

The fact that the paint is a few years old I would not use it anywhere that you are looking for long-term protection. You could use it to paint your floors of your car. I would use it on places that would be easy to do over if the need should arise later on. As far as metal prep there are many, POR 15 makes one, Eastwood, KBS

About three years ago I duplicated as closely as I could the Capt. Lees metal prep, this was some ass kicking stuff. It's sold as Mastercoat Rust remover/metal prep. Basically they're all pretty close just depends who you want to give your money to.

 

It doesn't convert the rust it removes it. The white residue on the fender is the zinc phosphate. The converters turn it dark gray or black I would definitely use it prior to just going with the black Paint over rust formulas. Makes a world of difference

 

used tremclad rust reformer on my 50 Pontiac 2 years ago it is holding up great with a coat of regular tremclad over it. I did an s10 frame from up here in the rust belt ,in September,pressure washed it twice, one heavy coat of rust reformer let dry for 24 hours. Then brushed on tremclad paint let it dry for 24 hours , then shoved it out the door to sit till the cab is ready . I check the frame all over once a week for rust coming through, nothing so far . Only $100.00 bucks in material.


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Yes it is. Once you've used it, if you leave the part out in the weather it'll rust again. I use this stuff in the shop at least once a week. Seems that every car coming in, somebody stripped paint and left it outside. That faux petina look ya know. I use this stuff. I talked about it on my handyman wagon thread. Works good on rust.

 

Yeah the Corroless is a few years old but has never been opened. Does this stuff simply break down with age?

 

Looks like it.. Looks like a nice product..