Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

Keeping the rear bones?

In a choice between split bones and ladder bars I think you want to go with the bars.. What allows them to work is a certain amount of axianal and longitudinal bar flex.. they almost act as another spring in the system when set up properly.. split bones are a heavy tube which resists this..

But this is theoretical as every car I've built has run a 4 link so I don't have any real world testing to be certain.. maybe someone more experienced can chime in on ladders vs bones..

 

My little brother has an A pickup with 36 rear wishbones on a 9” Ford rearend. He tied his together in the center with the yoke and ball from a front wishbone. He has been driving it for over a decade, including passes down the track at Mokan. No problems for him.

 

Just getting caught up on this thread and wanted to say how nice it looks. Great job so far. Keep it going!

 

I’d like to better understand how all of these different suspension parts articulate in real world driving. Are there any videos or animations that show this? I’ve heard a number of conflicting suggestions and just want to see different suspensions in action.


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Check out this old post I did on the same subject from a few years ago which explains how to make a real simple model from a strip of cardboard so you can try it yourself.

Once you go to the post, click on the diagram first, the text doesnt make sense without it.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...to-the-frame-rails.240464/page-2#post-2563079

 

If your going to start modeling things I think you just want to go ahead and run four bars..

Setting up ladder bars is more of an art than a science almost..

Seadogs car with what I think are pete and jakes ladder bars? but I don't think he mentioned.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/suspension-magicians-look-here.1114061/

 

Since you're adding a Posi to your 55 - 56 axel, the axel shafts will need to be slightly shortened. This is required on 55 and 56 Chevy axel shafts. Since Posi-Traction rear differentials came out in 1957, the 57 - 64 axels do not need to be shortened.

The attached photo is from a Chevrolet Technical Service Bulletin, that was sent out to Chevy dealers in 1957.

 

Tork - I'm pretty sure we have a '57 axle...

 

From the photos, it looks like it's a 55 or 56 axle. The axle retainers are 55 - 56. The 57 - 64 retainers are much shallower than the 55 - 56 retainers. For reference, here's a link to an Ebay ad that shows repro 57 - 64 retainers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/57-Chevy-R...621?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

Also, it looks like your axle does not have a drain plug. 55 - 56 axles did not have drain plugs, while 57 - 64 axles, did have drain plugs. Again, for reference, here's a link for some 55 - 56 axle retainers. As mentioned, they are much deeper than the 57 - 64 retainers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-1955...123648313747?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

The center section could be any year from 1955 to 1964. They will all interchange between all of the years. However, the pinion yoke looks to be 55 - 57. The 58 - 64 pinion yokes were heavier and stronger. Here's a link to the stronger style. Not sure why it's listed as for a 57, though. Perhaps, the 57 Vettes used the stronger yokes, while the 57 passenger cars used the lighter design????

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-O...ft-Pinion-Yoke-Flange-1957-1964-/201366216384

That's a NICE looking Posi unit. Looks to be a new one. If so, what brand?

 

I just tried it with a coffee stir stick and I think I get it...thanks.

 

Tork - I'll talk to Will, the builder about this. I know the engine and transmission were from a 1957 Chevy (serial number matched), so I assumed the rear axle was from the same 'donor' car.

I don't know the brand of posi unit but i can find out...

 

There is a casting date on your drop out unit...

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I wished I knew you need a locker, i am rebuilding a 3:55 unit now to resell.

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Very well could have been from the same car. I’m sure Henry wasn’t the only one using left overs from the previous model

 

Message sent

 

Your builder, 'Will', has relieved me of much worry, with his excellent solution of cross membering a previously 'compromised' chassis.
My concern grew with some of the suggested (read: 'Recommended!') steps to salvation.
Thank the gods of argon and better thinking, the chassis is now aesthetically and mechanically sound. (Whew!)
The car's worth it. And, regarding the dropped headlight bar? That is available in polished stainless, SoCal has it. Just call them, and have them 'match' measurements, although yours should match up, (stock '32?) It's a 'bolt-on'...

 

Have enjoyed scanning through your thread, Riff.
Haven't read every page, but am wondering if you have a Texas title or Texas license plates?
Reason I'm asking is back in '85 when I bought a my '34 Ford pickup with a 283, iron glide, and '57 rear end..I was curious to find it's history. Oregon DMV at that time would sell you the vehicle title history for $11.00. Paid my 11 bucks and a few weeks later got a detailed list of owners back to 1959...Earlier years were not available due to a fire at the DMV in Salem...Oh well...I was about 4th down the list...Got me the farmers name and the kid who pulled it out of his field in '59 to build into the truck I had. His address was still the same in a town about 60 miles from me...I drove the pickup up to his house, he was out in the yard mowing...walked over and says, " Looks just about like when I built it, except it was green"..Had a fun B.S. time with an old rodder,not that much older, though..

 

Thanks RDR. I have the title but have not gone to re-register or get plates yet. This one is kind of strange. The car’s title and plates show a re-registered TX VIN, and it matched what looked to be a more recent ‘scratched in’ VIN on the frame. However, once we blasted the frame, the original VIN became visible, so I’m not sure how to register it now. It’s a ‘32 frame and a Model A body. I’ll figure it out. Great story on finding one of the earlier owners. A well known hot rod builder in the area Keith Tardel told me he has a lead on the previous owner of my car and I’m waiting to hear back from him. Thanks again for your comments.


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Sorry Duece


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Sorry Duece


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I don't know anything about the system in Texas but I know if it was me in Ohio I wouldn't rock the boat. It was a Title from Texas and your going to plate it in Texas. I know in Ohio they wouldn't bat an eye. Same with Hagerty Ins. As long as you had a valid title and registration you would be good to go.

 

Might want to check these threads on the Tri-Five message board.

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1708902&postcount=19

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2201404#post2201404

Tom Parsons, ( DZAUTO ), on Tri-Five, is VERY knowledgeable on 55 - 64 Chevy rear axles.

 

There were two carriers in the 57-64 55p drop outs. 57-59 were bolted together with coarse thread RH threads, the 60-64 units were fine thread and LH threads. Also the "V" that the blocks lock into are different. The pic on the left is 57-59, on the right is 60-64. If the carrier has stayed with the pumpkin casting, you can just look at casting date.


For example, the cast date for this is L276; 12-27-56 If there is a "P" its was a posi, '57 posi had just an X in the casting. 58-64 had "P". The thin P was car only, and the thick "P" was used in Corvette and pass car.

 

Hey @RiffRaffRoadster...here is one incredible talent...don't know if you have seen this build...just incredible...But main reason other than an ooooo & awe fest is the rear bones...check it out...

First post is some visuals and second describes it...it is sort of like the crude photomods I did back a bit...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-another-black-model-a.1122429/#post-12742041

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-another-black-model-a.1122429/page-4#post-12745521

Glad things are rolling Riff...

 

Stogy, I like those rear bones. Thanks for finding the Black Model A build

Phil

 

Another decision point I could use help on (and sorry that I don’t know the proper terminology): I’d like to keep the rear split wishbones set up if possible, but angle them in toward mid-point of car based on feedback here for a better pivot point and to allow travel without binding. The problem is the original rear split wishbones were built with a bend or curve so that the main part of the bar is straight and parallel to the frame rails. We would have to heat/bend or cut/re-weld them to make them straight so we can connect them to the cross member towards the middle of the car. See photos. Will has suggested we go with another rear suspension option. Any suggestions?



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Does it look like they Pie Cut it heated and bent it and re-welded it? I'm not up on cutting and rewelding Bones but they do it to fronts all the time...They perhaps can be cut and have solid inserts placed inside do some plug welds and weld the joining area...I was wondering what they did there. Those more up on this will chime in. It's coming along there Riff...

 

If you can find a pair of original 35 or 36 rear bones they will not have that bend that someone put in yours. Sometimes they are expensive, but you might get lucky.

 

Once you get the dilemma over with here are some examples of what other members have done...on top of what I posted yesterday...Don't forget @Blues4U posted a link to a center heim type attach point for the fwd attach as well back several pages...



https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/theads/36-rear-bones.734223/#post-8156677






https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/36-rear-bones.734223/#post-8195362






https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ted-4-link-with-36-bones.459747/#post-5066021





https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...shings-wishbone-ball-or.943338/#post-10613272





https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...shings-wishbone-ball-or.943338/#post-10616128





https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rear-radius-rods.659939/#post-7328336


Other stuff to consider...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-welding-35-36-rear-bones.720987/
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Check out Iron Trap Garage's Sweet Heart Roadster build on YouTube. It is a '31 roadster hub of on deuce rails with '36 bones angled in the same way. Stupid spell Check can't spell HIBOY.

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