How much better is a 9", than an 8.8" out of an explorer? I can get a 9" but would most likely have to rebuild it and weld on spring perches, but the 8.8 would basically be ready to rip. Cost wise the 9" would be about 750 with everything (brake lines, perches, driveshaft mod, rebuild brakes and seals) where as the explorer would be 200. I've read up a lot using the search feature but want to know what you guys would do. Thanks in advance!!! Kevin Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Really depends on the 9". They are not all created equal. 28 spline or 31? Small bearing or big? 2 pinion or 4 pinion differential? Nodular carrier? Daytona pinion support? The Explorer 8.8 should be 31 spline and disk brake, depending on the year. Not a bad way to go if it's cheaper to get, and the looks aren't important. The 8.8 also has less parasitic drag, so fuel consumption will be minutely better.
for me, not 550 dollars better. add new brakes and it'll be more. I'd run an 8.8 if I could find a good ratio.
Part of the question is what kind of motor and are you drag racing it every week or a guy that just goes for a cruise around town?
There both good units. Don't know what motor you got ,but I don't you will break either one. For the difference in price, I would go with the 8.8
I would go with the 8.8, plenty of them got beat to hell in 5.0 mustangs and did just fine. I just picked up an explorer 3:73 8.8 with disc brakes and the driveshaft for $80, they are dirt cheap, but I am running a 2nd gen camaro (1970-81) rear in my F1 to keep the wheel bolt pattern the same as the jag front. 9" rears are heavy as hell and I couldnt see why you would need one.
I put a 8.8 in Jeep, and love it. It was my plan to put a 8.8 in my 37 Dodge truck, but I found a Jag rear axle. I believe that they are a 31 spline axle.
running an 8.8 out of a crown vic in my unibody. for the money they're tough to beat, easy to find most all are limited slip, disc or drum brakes take your choice. every catalog has parts for them and you can gear it however you want. my local yard sells them for under 150 hub to hub
My truck has a 302, 4 speed manual, and is my daily driver so no track days, just misc stop lights to move quickly away from. I found an 8.8 out of a running/driving 1994 2wd explorer for $100 complete with brake lines, and driveshaft. It is drum brakes so I won't have to change my master cylinder. I will find out how much I could get the master for while I'm at it… As of right now, from what you guys mentioned, it will be the 8.8.
Ford the mine you can't beat them. There is a C-clip eliminator kick you can buy for them if you wanted to. The plus side is they are just about as strong at just a fraction of the price. The disadvantage is it doesn't have a drop out center section. But to most once they are in to car they never come back out so that advantage mute. Chris Building handmade replica sheet metal one piece at a time.
I had a stock 8.8 with 3.73 gears in it in an OT mustang 5.0 and drag raced it with low air screwed down slicks every weekend and never broke it using 3000 rpm dump the clutch starts.
I would go with the 8.8. Mine is from a 99 explorer. 3.73 gears, posi, 31 spline axles and disc brakes.....$150.00. Can't go wrong. I bought spring pads and u bolts from Currie Enterprise (8.8 has 3 inch axle tubes) pads were $24.00 a pair and I believe the u bolts were $40 dollars (set of 4) has a buddy grunge off the old pads and weld in the new ones and .......presto.....8.8 installed. Totally worth it. Plenty strong with what ever horsepower you have. I have mine with a flathead v8 and a t5. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I went through the same decision and started out buying a 9" Ford housing and axles for $100. Then I looked into drums and third member to complete it, and got sticker shock! I went to the pick n pull and bought a complete Explorer 8.8 limited slip in 3.73 ratio for $175, and put it in my Falcon instead. If you went with a '96 or newer Explorer axle they will have disc brakes, which eliminates the need for c clip eliminator kits, as the calipers hold the axle in if it breaks. I wanted drums, so went with a '94 so I could have drums all around on my car. Be sure to get the u bolts and spring plates with the rearend, as they are a 3.25" axle tube, and it makes fitting the axle to your truck easier with the factory stuff.
A 57-72 F100 9in is a direct bolt in. Same bolt pattern. No mods needed. Put one in my 52. Later, Bill
I debated the same thing with my '64 Fairlane, here's the route I've chosen. I have my rearend, built just needs to be installed. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/rear-end-articles/495110-31-spline-explorer-axle-swap.html On the topic of Explorer rears, here's some research I've done. I have it in a Word document, couldn't upload, so here's the verbage. <!--[if !mso]> <style> v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} </style> <![endif]--> Ford 8.8 Information: There are many different variations of the Ford 8.8 axle. One of them is best suited would be the Explorer (or Mountaineer) 31 spline 8.8. Trying to start your build-up with the wrong axle will be frustrating and expensive although you may have picked it up for cheap in the beginning. Ford 8.8 assembly specs: Cover bolt 28-38 ft.lbs. Pinion bearing preload 16-29 in.lbs. Pinion bearing preload 8-14 in.lbs (used) Ring gear backlash .008-.015 Ring gear bolt to case 70-85 ft.lbs Side bearing caps 70-85 ft.lbs. Explorer 8.8 Measurements: Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb. O.D. of tubes: 3.250". Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!) Ring gear diameter: 8.800". Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10). Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30. Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31. Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250"). Overall width 59.625" Hole diameter for ABS sensor in top of housing: .811". Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm Centerline of housing to C/L of pinion difference is 3.875" toward the P/S. Pinion offset: P/S to C/L of Pinion, 27-3/4" (no rotor on axle), D/S to C/L of Pinion, 31-5/8" (no rotor on axle). Specs: Code Capacity Ratio 43 Open 3200 3.08 41 Open 3200 3.27 42 Open 4.10 46 Open 3.73 45 Open 3200 3.55 D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73 D2 Limited Slip 4.10 L73 Limited Slip 3.73 L - Limited Slip Differential C - Conventional Differential How many splines are the axle shafts? drivers side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 30-1/2 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern. passenger side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 27-5/8 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind: F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.) Do all 8.8s come with a limited slip? No, read the tag on the housing or remove the cover. 3L73 = 3.73 gears witha "L"imited slip What year ford explorers do I look for as a donor for 31 spline and disc brakes? To get rear disc brakes and 31-spline axle, you need to look for a 1995 to 2001 Explorer or Mountaineer. Earlier years use drum brakes and may be 28-spline. Different vehicles may have the wrong bolt pattern, width, spline count, or brakes. A 2-door Sport Explorer may be a donor past the 2001 cut off. Also, Explorer SportTracs with production dates of August 19, 2002 through June 29, 2005 are equipped with 31-spline axles and rear disc brakes and are exactly what was in the previously listed 95-2001 Explorer. Before Aug 19, 2002, the Sport Tracs were equipped with the smaller 28-spline 8.8 axle shafts and used drum brakes. After June 29, 2005, Sport Tracs were produced with an Independent rear as found on 2002 regular Explorers.* Sport-Trac What is so great about 8.8? Parts are everywhere, as in axle shafts, covers, brake parts etc.. What's not so great about the 8.8? Weak stock carrier, replace with a carrier type locker like ARB or Detroit (not a lunch box type) this will cure the problem. S610A Explorer 91-01 3.27 8.8 NL - - S610B Explorer 91-01 3.27 8.8 NL - - S610E Explorer 95-01 Mountaineer 99 3.27 8.8 NL - - S611A Explorer 95-97 3.27 8.8 L - - S611B Explorer 95-97 3.27 8.8 L - - S612A Explorer 91-01 3.55 8.8 NL - S612B Explorer 91-01 3.55 8.8 NL - - S612E Explorer 95-01 Mountaineer 99 3.55 8.8 NL - - S613A Explorer 95-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S613B Explorer 95-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S613C Explorer 95-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S613E Explorer 95-01 Explorer 01 Postal Mountaineer 99-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S614A Explorer 91-01 3.73 8.8 NL - - S614B Explorer 91-01 Mountaineer 98-01 3.73 8.8 NL - - S614E Explorer 95-01 Mountaineer 98-01 3.73 8.8 NL - - S615B Explorer 95-01 4.10 8.8 L - - S615C Explorer 95-01 4.10 8.8 L - - S615E Explorer 95-01 Mountaineer 99-01 4.10 8.8 L - - S616B Explorer 91-01 4.10 8.8 NL - - S616E Explorer 96-01 Mountaineer 99-01 4.10 8.8 NL - - S618A Explorer 98-01 Mountaineer 98-01 3.73 8.8 NL - - S618E Explorer 98-01 Mountaineer 98-01 3.73 8.8 NL - - S619A Explorer 96-97 3.73 8.8 L - - S621A Explorer 96-01 Mountaineer 97-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S621E Explorer 96-01 Mountaineer 97-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S622B Explorer 91-93 Mazda Navajo 91-93 3.27 8.8 NL - - S622D Explorer 91-94 3.27 8.8 NL - - S622E Explorer 91-94 3.27 8.8 NL - - S623A Explorer 00-01 3.55 8.8 L - - S624B Explorer 91-93 Mazda Navajo 91-93 3.08 8.8 NL - - S624D Explorer 91-94 3.08 8.8 NL - - S624E Explorer 91-94 3.08 8.8 NL - - S625A Explorer 91-94 3.27 8.8 L - - S625B Explorer 91-94 3.27 8.8 L - - S626B Explorer 91-93 Mazda Navajo 91-93 3.55 8.8 NL - - S627A Explorer 95-01 Mountaineer 99-01 3.73 8.8 L - - S628A Explorer 91-94 3.73 8.8 NL - - S628B Explorer 91-94 3.73 8.8 NL - - S629B Explorer 91-94 Mazda Navajo 91-93 3.73 8.8 L - - S629D Explorer 91-94 3.73 8.8 L - - S629A Explorer 91-94 3.27 8.8 L - - S630A Explorer 00-01 Mountaineer 00-01 3.55 8.8 NL - -
The Fox Mustangs, T-Birds and Lincoln Mark 7's have the pumpkin centered. The Mustang is 57". The T-Bird is 1-1/2" wider than the Mustang and the Mark 7 is 2-1/2" wider than the Mustang. SN-95 Mustangs are the same width as the Fox T-Birds. The Mustangs, T-Birds and Mark 7's are 28 spline though, not 31.
I normally would say go with a 9 inch but after looking for a complete 67 to 72 F100 9 inch to convert a F250 to a 1/2 ton I am beginning to think a 8.8 might be the best way to go. I had a hard time finding a complete 9 inch at my local junkyards.
The 9 inch is better if you want real tall gears. 2.50-3.25 were put in lots of 9 inch cars,usually 28 spline.
Can't imagine many scenarios where most rodders would want less than 3.08 gears, and the 8.8" isn't hard to find in that ratio. And you'll still have the benefit of 31 spline axles on newer 8.8" axles.
Was working for a drive line shop when I found my 8.8 (99 Explorer). Pinion bearings had failed and wiped out the housing. Bone yard send a replacement. My machinist drilled out the welds, heated the housing and pulled the short side tube from the bad rear end. He said it was rather easy so we pulled the long tube out of the newer one and installed the short tube. Fits pretty nice in my A.
^ Done the same to my rear. I have $125 in a 8.8, 3:73 trac-loc, 31-spline, disc brakes. I'm happy, just need to install it.
Hey 2dr_sedan, nice write up. Wish I had all this info in one place when I was looking. I used the explorer unit in mine. Just narrowed it to use two short side axles for my '36.
My brother swears by them and he owns a trans and dif shop. He's run a 8.8 in his OT Ranger race truck with a 500 hp 347 that runs low 11's. He's never had a problem with it.
Love the 8.8 in my F1, great price and it looks pretty correct in there. No need for a 9" unless you're making big HP.
I think the 9" is a great axle, and when it comes to looks it's a much better looking axle. If your rear axle is a focal point, then it might be chosen for that reason. But bang for the buck, it's hard to beat the 8.8" And considering what people are getting for a 12 bolt GM rear, the nearly identical 8.8 would be a much better option for people who want a 12 bolt, but don't want to pay $1000-$1200 for a good one in posi.
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