I have done the search thing and am more confused. Been 30 years since last paint work and I need help. Brookville body. Bare metal. Kirker acrylic enamel. Acrylic primer high build. Shot some primer to bare metal and I can strip it off with a air hose. Doesn't sand for shit or feather. I have some POR15 metal prep. Will this help or do I need etching primer before the acrylic primer? Searching tells me to not use both phosphoric prep and etching primer togather. Use one or the other? Is either one O.K. over a small amount of filler?
Usually our painter just sprays over the bare body with an epoxy primer to seal it before body work and sucessive coats.
scuff, clean, then epoxy.i'm doing the same thing now.i did'ent scuff the tops of the shock mounts on first coat, and when sanding for second coat, it sanding of a bit easy. if the metal is to smooth, i just won't stick that great. i used 80 or 100 grit on new metal. degrease and paint.can do skim coat with filler and re-prime.
I called Brookville for a friend to see what they have the steel prepped to and they told me it was cold rolled, not phosphated, and if you want it primed, they use a cheap grade of lacquer primer. I told him to order the body not primed and to either use metal conditioner to phosphate the metal or scuff or sand the metal and use a self etching primer followed by a hi build urethane primer. With most of the good primer systems (check the tech sheets for your brand) you can apply self etching primer on the clean, sanded steel and let that flash off for the reccommended time (around 30 minutes to 1 hour) then apply the compatible urethane hi build wet on wet over the flashed etch prime. A good epoxy (not DPLF) would work also, but would be best applied after using metal conditioner to phosphate the steel. Read the tech sheets for whichever primer system you consider. Some primer/paint threads: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553217 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433769 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381410&showall=1 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=504646 overspray
Over spray has a good suggestion. Always does! Or as an option, you can sand it very well, and use a good Direct To Metal primer, or regular epoxy primer as a starting point. But I gotta ask.....Why are you use some cheap ass acrylic enamel, over a very expensive, brand new body????????????
Sand everything off and etch prime it. That way the following coats of paint will bond and won't delaminate. A good hi-fill epoxy primer and a sand will be a good starting point.
O.K. Scrap the acrylic primer. Order Eastwood epoxy primer kit. 51128ZP Does this sound good?? Kirker is for the inside doors and deck lid and hard to spray places that waste alot of paint. If you are paying 12K for a Brookville, your not doing your homework.
Don't you have an auto paint store nearby where you can buy paint? Getting primer to stick to bare metal isn't really rocket science....I've been able to do it, and I don't know much at all about paint. I do know how to read the directions on the can, they generally have all the info you need about how to prep the surface. As for using cheap acrylic enamel on an "expensive" body, we painted my 55 last fall with Nason acrylic enamel, the paint came out looking just right for an old hot rodded Chevy. Nice, not perfect. Some guys take this painting stuff too seriously.
I couldn't find the tech data for that epoxy. I did read some of their forum posts and see they have a bare metal phosphate cleaner/wipe that looks like a good idea for pretreating the steel before primer. I'm just leary of new steel that has not been phosphated. Most auto manufacturers have been phosphating their steel bodies for over 100 years. It is the best first step in corrosion protection. http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/5192/s/eastwood-afterblast/category/522/ Price list showed $11,500 plus more for firewall and other adds--I'd be up for a new Brookville 32 roadster body for $5,000 or less.
Second that one. Every rod my dad ever painted was in a dusty open air shop....and most of the time they came out looking ok.
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