Here's what I plan on doing. 1. Strip to bare metal, abrasive disks on outside surfaces and sandblast the rest. 2. Metal finish major damage to something small enough it can be bondo'd. 3. Paint the backside of panels with POR 15. 4. Paint the body with PPG DX1791 "Self Etching Wash Primer". 5. Paint the body with PPG DP50LF "Epoxy Primer". 6. Fill small dents with Evercoat Rage Gold. 7. Block with 80 grit. 8. Paint the body with Evercoat Slick Sand. 9. Block with 120 grit. 10. Paint with PPG K-38 "High Build Primer". 11. Block with 180 to 400. 12. Paint with PPG DP50LF as sealer. 13. Paint with PPG base coat. 14. Paint with PPG clear coat. 15. Drink heavily. What am I missing? What did I mess up? Any suggestions? <!-- / message -->
You technically don't need to etch prime the car if your going to use the DP50. It can be sprayed directly to bare metal.It will save you some$$$
From the DPLF product information sheet P-196: NOTE: DPLF must NOT be applied over DPX170 or DPX171. · Chemical treatment or the use of a conversion coating will enhance the adhesion and performance properties of the finished system. I use OSPHO on the bare steel which is what I believe is the conversion coating referred to above. No problems with the DPLF on top of it.
I was told use the 1791 first, then the DPLF. Something about the DPLF (Lead Free) not having the zinc the older DP had. Then I read on some other sites that you should skip the 1791, and put epoxy on bare metal... I guess I'll skip to step 15 and do some more investigating.
If you have paint on the bare metal and then strip the paint and leave the original phosphate coating on the metal, the epoxy alone is fine. If you have a rusty metal old car body and blast or sand the rust away, then the original phosphate coating is already gone. You can re-phosphate the metal by using a 2 part metal conditioner, which is the best-but very messy, or the next best is a self etching primer on the bare steel, like the 1791, followed (according to the tech sheet) by a hi build or similar primer surfacer. After the 1791, if you go that route, you wouldn't really need the epoxy primer if you go to a primer surfacer. Epoxy would still be OK to put on the 1791, following the tech sheet directions of course, but there is really no gain if you are going to hi build primer and body work right away. 1. Strip to bare metal, abrasive disks on outside surfaces and sandblast the rest. --Make sure to reduce the "sandblast profile" or texture by sanding the metal with about 180# (DA) after blasting. PPG's tech sheet says not to put the self etch primer on blasted steel, but reducing the blast profile by sanding will make the surface smoother and the etch will work as intended. Too coarse of a profile can trap solvents, from the etch primer, which contain a small amount of phosphoric acid (the etch) which could cause problems later. The etch primer needs to be applied per directions and not extremely heavy, with adequate flash time between coats. This also applies to most solvent based coatings--too heavy of a coat can trap solvents which will release later and be problematic in the layers of primer and paint that are applied on top of them. 2. Metal finish major damage to something small enough it can be bondo'd. OK 3. Paint the backside of panels with POR 15. OK 4. Paint the body with PPG DX1791 "Self Etching Wash Primer". OK 5. Paint the body with PPG DP50LF "Epoxy Primer".-- Or you could go directly to step #10 with K 38 on the etch primer. 6. Fill small dents with Evercoat Rage Gold. OK 7. Block with 80 grit. Maybe 36# to rough out, then 80# 8. Paint the body with Evercoat Slick Sand. --- I think this is a waste of money--the k 38 does a similar job, and either one would do. Slick sand is cheaper than k 38 and according to Evercoat's tech sheet, can be used over an etch primer. 9. Block with 120 grit. OK 10. Paint with PPG K-38 "High Build Primer". Decide at step #8 11. Block with 180 to 400. OK 12. Paint with PPG DP50LF as sealer. The Slick sand will need a sealer before paint. 13. Paint with PPG base coat. OK 14. Paint with PPG clear coat. OK 15. Drink heavily. Maybe moderately--alcohol makes things look too good and might make for a less quality workmanship than you want.
Hey man you dont technically need to put high build primer on there after step 9. If you have enough on there you can 120 and then quide coat it at sand it with 320. If you still have some left you can 600 with wet and good to go. Just make sure all 120 is out. Depending on color if metallic definatly make sure all scratches out. Oh yeah research Z chrome its like slick sand and i trust it more than slick sand couple years ago we used slick sand and from i heard they were using wood resin for their hardner but it should all be fixed now. Check into it
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