Projects 36 Chevy 3 window project - modified

Finally got a modified body. I need a rolling chassis. The chassis is too hackup. Take a look at the pictures. I can use all the advise I can get. I'll post progress on this car as time goes on. I hope to have a running and rolling modified by late summer. It might not look good but it will run, roll and stop, that's the goal. Please post any advise or any simular projects. If you have parts that I can use PM me. I was looking for a 5 window and I get a rare 3 window. If I was looking for the 3 window I would have a ton of 5 windows. So, help! any advise or pictures of vintage modifieds of this type would be appreciated.

Thanks

Oh, thanks to all the guys that PM ed leeds and pictures. I'm still looking for a 3 window modified. My son wants one now.

 

I will be posting some pictures of progress on this coupe but, haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Got to clean the garage out to make room.

 

i remember as a kid building a stock car model of a '36? i think it was dark blue and was a copy of Toby Tobias' car. i remember it looked great maybe you could build it like that.

 

Hey, Post some pictures of that coupe if you have any!

 

I need a rolling chassis. The chassis is too hackup. email if you have something I can used.

 

Finally a good weekend to work out doors. Worked on getting the sheet metal out of roll cage and cut the roll cage off the frame. Went through 8 sawzall blades.

 

I thought the frame looked good, especially for an old race car.

 

I thought about fixing it, but it was too hacked up. Bent, rusty, and missing the front section of frame (an old I beam axle is clamped to the frame to move the thing around) and part of the left rear frame is missing. I have a 52 Chevy frame to work with after I pull the motor and trans and rear.

 

Just discovered the old frame is 2 inches narrower than the 52 Chevy frame that I have. Was told the frame was a 54 (old frame). Were older frames 37-40 narrower? or maybe this frame was narrowed for some reason. Seems I will have to fabricate a mount for the roll cage or just build another cage. How hard is it to build a cage?

 

Went to the Rhinebeck car show this past weekend and picked up a 48 Ford I beam axle, radius rods and spindles. Also got an aluminum racing seat, engine stand (low setting one for storage) with wheels. The one my son bought me at Harbor Frieght was all right but does not roll very good on my garage floor. Too many cracks in cement on that side of the garage. Still looking for a rear end and a frame in my area. If I get a stripped frame I won't have to pull the engine, trans and rear out the 52 frame I have.

 

Still working on getting more parts for the project. Picked up a Frankland rear and a modified front axle with wide five hubs. The front end and rear have drum brakes and they all need a rebuild. Hope I can find the parts for these. I am on the fence about rebuilding I will have tear apart the drums and brakes to see what needs to be replaced. I wanted something to just roll under and bolt on, but this was kind of a deal and just have had no results finding just that I got these parts to work with for now. I've got to chase down another rearend next weekend (3/4 t truck that is supose to just bolt in and some other wide 5 stuff. We will see in the next couple weeks what I will use. So what should I use ? Frankland or 3/4 t truck rear?

I have old modified transmissions in the deal that I don't need so anyone that is local wants them they can be had for a reasonable price or trade for some wide 5 rims with tires or anything that I need for this project. PM me for info on trans.

 

this is the only picture i could find of his early car.

 

i know it's not the one i remember.

 

Having trouble locating parts for the brakes. How old do you think those hubs are? Here is a picture of the brakes after I removed the drum. Skeleton brakes? Buick shoes and springs?

 

Well this skeleton brake hanger cleaned up pretty good. Got a 3/4 ton rear with hubs and brakes last week.

 

Only guy I know with tons of modified parts who might make a deal is my buddy Mark in Mohawk, if you walked the swap at Rhinebeck you probably already have his contact info.

 

Yes you're right. He has a lot of parts. I have to go see him soon. I was in his area a couple weeks ago but it was raining and cold and .......

 

Got to call ahead anyways, even I've gone up there for a day and never saw him.

I have a '39 coupe stock car up there that could use another frame, or at least the back half of one, if you want to leave some leftovers behind. It needs a roof skin too, but that's a project for another day.

 

A friend dropped off a frame for me today. Looks pretty good. Will be cleaning it up tommorrow.

 

Been a while since I posted any progress. Stipped all the body mounting brackets off the sides of the frame and wire brushed the frame bottom, sides and top. Trying to decide what rear end to use. The quick change needs axle tubes and axles along with a teardown to check it over. I have another 3/4 ton ford rear I might use to just roll it arond. This rear hasn't any axles. Also trying to figure out whether to use original spring perch location or mount some fabricated ones on the outside of the frame. The frame is in real good condition. Only one spot needs attention and it is minor. Will post some pictures of the frame after my son sand blasts it. Any ideas for the leaf springs? use original or ? use a spring slider?

 

Here is the latest. I had picked up another 3/4 t Ford truck rear end with axles. Cleaned it up a bit and primered it. Put some wide five hubs on and some wheels and tires. Sand blasted the frame at my son's place and brought it back home to the wire brush and primer.

 

Worked on the frame over the weekend. Wire brushed and primered the frame. Rolled the rear under the frame and positioned and clamped the the spring hangers and sliders. I can roll the frame now. I still need to do some minor patch work on frame.

 

I rolled the chassis in the garage under the body which is hanging from the rafters. Waiting on some lowering blocks I ordered. The frame seems to sit too high in the rear. All the spring hangers are c-clamped right now.I cut a cross member for the front end and fitted it into the frame. A guy sent me some dimentions for the Flemke springs so I cut a template from plywood to see if they will work. just eye bowling the mockup it looks pretty good. There seems to all kind of ways and dimentions possible judging from the pictures of different cars I have acumulated. The springs themself have me a little concerned. On some cars the eyes of the springs are bent up on one side and down on the other. Mine are bent in the same direction. Well I will have to do some more research. Will have to order the shackles and other several other parts to complete the front end unless I can find a complete one locally.

 

Well I rolled the chassis into the garage and lowered the body on to see were it will look good on the chassis. Had to roll it back out on the pad to get a better look. Waiting for the front spring plates. My son is going to cut and drill the holes.

 

Got the spring plates today and decided to mockup the crossmember. I had to check some pics I have of the Flemke front end to get the right spot to place the crossmember. Seems I had it in the wrong position. Still seems funny, this frame looks too long. I guess I'll tack everything and see what I get. Any ideas out there? Maybe because this is a three window the frame looks long.

 

My son welded the spring plates for me and I installed some 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks over the weekend.

 

Been busy getting things done around the house and haven't worked much on the coupe till this past weekend. Welded (tacked) the front crossmember and mocked up the front axle and split rods. Seems I have to bend the rods to get the shackles to bolt up straight. Any advice on how to bend the radius rod? I might look for some all ready bent. It would be ashame to bend these. I also took out the original transmission cross member. That was a lot of chiseling, grinding and drilling out those rivets. I then rolled the engine between the frame rails to get an idea where to put motor mounts. will probabley get the bellhousing and trans mounted before i make a decision.

 

If I understand correctly,when you say bend the split rods,
you mean so when you attach them to the frame,the spring isn't in a bind or twisted,right?
If that's the case,I think most folks just make a small pie cut or even just one slice with a cut wheel on the top of the split bone,maybe 3/4 of the way through.
Then bend it to where you need it and weld.
Of course,I would bevel the cut before welding to insure good penetration.
I imagine it's gonna be almost impossible to find some already angled the exact amount you need.
Did you plan to build any caster into your set-up? I think 5-7 degrees positive is what most are set at.

 

Yes, so the spring isn't in a bind and add some tire clearance. The pictures i have collected show what I mean. I was thinking exactly what you were on making a pie cut. Hate to do that to these bones I have, would sooner get a pair allready bent. Most of the old stock cars and modifieds that had a Flemke front end had bent bones. Any have any other ideas? or bent bones?

 

Vintage wide 5 snouts mounted to 42-48 Ford spindles--Help!

I have researched and asked a few people about bolt on wide 5 hubs. Some say they will just bolt on. Some say it will take a little modification and easy to do. Well, i have a wide 5 bolt on snout and a 48 spindle and it ain't that easy. The snout will not fit over the spindle all the way without a little machining. You still get a 1/4 gap and the bolt pattern is'nt exactley the same. Looking for best practices in getting this to work. Possibly there was a bolt on snout especialy for a 42-48 Ford or one for a early (GM)Chevy? maybe i am missing something? The pictures show a unmachined snout and a machined snout, the spindle alone and the spindle with the snout bolted on. Anyone out there do the same or have some best practices?
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