Well, I finally got my Dodge Meadowbrook's 230 flathead six up and running with the "new" 94's, but dialing it in has been tricky. I'm running a pair of 8BA's on an Offy intake. I am running 49 jets, 71 squirters, and 4.5 powervalves. Floats are set at 1.25" as per the rebuild kit. Car fires up, idles well (with the air screws out only 3/4 turn), but it falls on it's face when you wack the gas, and I noticed after about 15-20 minutes of running the motor, the carbs are FREEZING cold and covered with condensation, like a frosty beer mug. I've heard of carbs icing up in airplanes and on alcohol motors, but never in a situation like this. Anybody care to weigh in on what's going on? Thanks!
Ok, so the carbs aren't icing up anymore, but I still have some huge problems. As I said above...2x 94-8BA carbs on a 230 Dodge flathead six. The flatty ran smooth as silk before I swapped the intake, and exhaust manifolds, and introduced these Holley 94's into the equation...the only other thing I touched were a point and condensor in the stock vacuum advance distributor. Anyway, the carbs are built with all matching components, and have 49 jets, 71 squirters, and 4.5 power valves. Initially I set the fuel pressure at 2.5 psi and the float level at 1.25", set the mixture screws at 1 turn out, and synced the carbs with my uni-sync. After messing around with it to no avail, and reading some of the Holley 94 tech on here, I lowered the float height to 1.375"...if anything I think this made the car run worse. The car fires right up and idles ok, but it is way rich (best setting on mixture screws is less than half a turn out). I can't give it any sudden throttle without popping and sputtering and it's fouling plugs fast. They're not wet with gas, but sooty. For what it's worth...the vacuum advance distributor hooks up to the stock carb and a port the routes below the throttle plate. Because of this I initially hooked my vacuum source into the intake manifold plennum. Since I was trying everything, I tried hooking the vacuum advance up to the 8BA's vacuum port in the venturi, and it seemed to make no diference in the running of the car. Again, the car ran pretty decent before the manifold swap. Thanks for the help!
I suggest you go smaller main jets. With it sooting the plugs its way to rich so you should reduce fuel flow first--Just my thoughts
I probably do need smaller jets, but my problems bigger than that because the exhaust is black and smokey even at idle, and I only have the mixture screws a 1/2 turn out.
Do you know how much vacum your motor is making, it sound like you need to play with the powervalves. I was told when you run to or more 94s you the vacum signal really drops. Also you with two carbs your vacum advance may not work now.
Sounds like leaking powervalve gaskets to me.. Run the car, then unbolt the top of the carb from the throttle body part (three screws, one upside down) and gently take it off..If the well that the powervalve sits in has ANY fuel in it that is your problem..this area should be completely dry..its a vacuum port basically, and if the powervalve doesnt seat properly the engine is basically sucking unmetered fuel straight outta the fuel bowl. Causes shit running and foul plugs.
And study the area on valve where it seats against bottom of bowl. Ther should be a flat right around the moving part as gasket seat (look at the seat area on bowl). I think you will find a TAPERED area that cannot seal, and a gasket seat 1/4" outside where it is needed. Plug the vac port on car!! No need to explain the endless weirdness you have plugged into there, just unpluggit and hook into manifold like stock. You MIGHT want to uncouple part throttle and full throttle tuning for now...plug off vac advance TEMPORARILY and flog your full throttle driveability, THEN plug it back in for full function. Remember, aside from leaks as above, PV and main jets are not feeding through the venturis at all at low RPM. All gas does go through main to all feeds, but at low RPM the idle jet and holes into throttle body are the metering points of interest.
I am going to check the powervalves right now. They are brand new from Charlie Price, and I used his nylon "no leak" gaskets, so I don't expect them to be leaking due to improper sealing. Can somebody tell me how to test and see if the valve itself is bad?
Probably best way is to fill bowl and set carb on a piece of paper to see if there's leakage. You are for now only interested in leaks, as valve function is irrelevant until higher speeds. I think CP sells valves modified for proper fit...? Recheck float height... Fuel pressure: Set with a gauge, or set on one of those round regulators with turnable knob for setting?? Those have issues. Also...8BA's should have the 91A nozzle bars, the ones humped up with brass plug at middle. There are two air bleeds at front of each, one idle, one main passage. You will see a small hole or pit at the bottom of which is a TINY hole...probe that with a very small copper wire, something unraveled fron multistrand. See that the gaskets at ends of nozzle bars are good.
Ok...so the power valves were of the proper type, and the gaskets were the nylon "no-leak" jobbers, but they were leaking anyway. I swapped out some paper gaskets and no more leaks. Fired it up and it's running pretty decent down low. Still popping and sputtering a little bit, but all in all about a million times better. Now I'm gonna try and find some smaller power valves and see if I can get it to actually accelerate. Thanks for all your help.
How did you ever make out with this setup. I have a '49 Coronet with a single Holley 94 (2110 with 1 1/16" venturi's). From the begining of your post I was thinking that you had way too much carbueration. I don't have any numbers to validate my claim but I figured since my carb came from a '56 Ford 272" V-8 that it should wake up the little inline 6.
The Jalopy Journal
