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Snapperhead Coupe - 1934 Frame Build - Part 2: Boxing Plate Fabrication and Setup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bored&Stroked, Nov 23, 2008.

  1. This is a continuation of a previous post - which details the build-out of a 1934 Ford Frame - starting with ASC rails. The prevoius post is here:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311049

    ===============================

    I ordered a set of boxing plates from ASC when I ordered the frame rails. After thinking about wanting the frame to look more traditional, I found that Ionia Hot Rod Shop made boxing plates with bell-mouthed holes in them - which I thought looked much better than smooth rails. I contacted them to see if they made them for 34's - they said yes. I don't have a hydraulic press . . . or I'd have made them myself.

    Cost: $375

    They come in three pieces (which is how just about everybody makes them). When I got them, I was thrilled on one hand (with the holes), but not impressed with how the front 2 feet and rear two feet of the plates fit the frame. They were WAY too narrow - and really didn't fit the contours of a 34 frame. (I even compared them to my mint stock frame - same deal). I'll contact them and let them know they need to change their patterns a bit.

    Here are the ASC versus the Ionia rear plate sections - notice how narrow the Ionia ones become:

    BoxingPlate_Rear_SideBySide2 - Copy.jpg

    Here you can see the fit . . . or lack there of:

    BoxingPlate_PoorFit_Rear copy.jpg

    Here are the front sections - have no idea as to why the Ionia ones have that dang hole in them. Also, they are once again too narrow toward the front sections:

    BoxingPlates_Front copy.jpg

    BoxingPlate_Front_SideBySide2 copy.jpg

    I then decided since I was grafting thiings together like fricking Frankenstein, might as well graft a bit more.

    Also I really wanted more strength in the front 2 or so feet anyway - so I fabricated some 1/4" plate sections to replace the front of the Ionia ones.

    Important Note: The front of a 34 frame flares back out - about 8 or so inches before the end of the plates. Due to this, I needed to put a bend in the 1/4" boxing plate. I used an Oxy/Acet rosebud torch to heat the plate up in the vice and put about a 1/4" bend in it - you'll see the heat mark in the picture when I show the plate in the frame.

    BoxingPlate_Front_ReadyForBend copy.jpg

    BoxingPlate_Front_AfterBend copy.jpg


    Then I grafted all of the now FIVE dang sections together to create one long plate. Make sure you tack weld everything together inside the frame rails and tack the joints in 3 or 4 places (about an inch apart). Do one graft at a time. When you go to weld the plates, weld the back side first - then the front. Also, weld a 1 inch or so weld in the MIDDLE of the seam first - then move toward the outside - alternating back and forth. If you start on one side, you'll probable draw the plates and change the angles/fit in the rails. I recommend that you recheck the fit once you've done the first 1 inch weld in the middle.

    BoxingPlates_SideBySide2 copy.jpg

    Now that I've prepped the welds and I know that everything fits as it should, now I put the entire plate in the frame rail and I do the rosette welds first. If you check my first post, you'll see where I use square tubing to tie the inner-outer rails together. The rosette welds are used to tie the boxing plates to the square tubes.

    Here you'll see the almost complete rail -- have not yet done the full-length welds, that is for another post:

    FrameRail_Rosettes1 copy.jpg

    FrameRail_Rosettes2 copy.jpg

    FrameRail_Rosettes3 copy.jpg

    FrameRail_Rosettes4 copy.jpg

    And here is my crude but effective "rail flange bender" - that I threw together to make it easy to bend the flanges and get them straight (was used when just the empty rail was mounted in the jig.

    Rail_Straightener1 copy.jpg

    Rail_Straightener2 copy.jpg

    Thats all for today . . . will have more posts later this week . . .

    Dale
     

    Attached Files:

  2. HotRodDrummer
    Joined: Dec 10, 2002
    Posts: 1,827

    HotRodDrummer
    Member

    Sorry you had a hard time with them, I think I mentioned we haven't built a 33-34 in years. These were patterned from Welded frame rails which tend to be a bit "skinny" in some area's. If you could send me patterns off your fixes I'll have the program changed. Give me a call and we'll make it right.
    Matt Lesky
    Ionia Hot Rod Shop
     
  3. Hey Matt: No problem - wasn't trying to throw negative comments you're way - and as noted, was going to call you guys and help you adjust your patterns. I like your product - dang glad you make what you do. With some slight adjustments, they'll be fine. I'll even make you a deal -- if you have actual CAD drawings (DXF, DWG, etc) - I can rework them, plot out the changes and validate them against the physical frames . . . then I'll send them back to you. This is probably the best way to get them closer.

    Anyway, thanks for paying attention and for caring - that is what is most important.

    PS: I'll give you a call tomorrow . . . am swamped today.

    Dale
     
  4. willysguy
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 1,224

    willysguy
    Member
    from Canada

    Great thread!!! That is going to be one nice chassis when done.
     

  5. Well - been busy finishing up both frame rails . . . lots of fabrication fun and TIG welding. I'm now ready to put in the front and rear cross members.

    The progress pictures are below . . .

    What I'd do Different: I setup the boxing plates to fit inside the rail - what is commonly called 'step boxing'. I inset them about 1/4" or so from the edge. Next time I'll set them deeper and leave about a 1/2" of rail lip exposed, here is why:

    The small 1/4" lip made the welding a challange in that you really have to be precise with the heat and puddle (and damn close) with the TIG electrode - or you run the risk of burning the little exposed rail edge. I'd weld about 4" at a time, then skip around the rail to keep the heat in any one area down. As a new and self taught TIG welder, you might say I learned a WHOLE lot . . . and sharpened plenty of electrodes in the process (when they're that close, it is easy to touch the puddle and contaminate them - I'm not that good as of yet!). After about 40 feet of this welding - one gets a bit better and faster at it!

    Here are pictures:

    Welding is coming along - not yet like some of the 'Incredible Welds' guys, but getting better. As everybody says - practice, practice, practice . . .

    SampleWeld1 copy.jpg

    SampleWeld3 copy.jpg

    Here is one of the rails:

    RightRail1 copy.jpg

    RightRail2 copy.jpg

    RightRail-Closeup copy.jpg

    Both rails with the JIG level:

    FrameFromRear copy.jpg

    FrameRear-LeftSide copy.jpg

    FrameRear-RightSide copy.jpg

    After I rotated the JIG back - leveled everything back . . . before I start on the cross members:

    FrontLevel copy.jpg

    SideRailLevel copy.jpg

    And lastly - the neighbor boy wanted to "help" a bit, so I dressed him in the gear so he could participate and learn a bit. Smart kid, understood how the electrode was a conductor of current and how the arc was made as it jumped to the ground. Hopefully the neighbor kids will learn enough to be interested and want to build skills other than video games and sports! (They do great in school, so they have that going for them).

    Helper copy.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2009
  6. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,239

    ss34coupe
    Member

    I'm liking it!!
     
  7. junkyardgenius
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 886

    junkyardgenius
    Member
    from Kernow

    Great stuff, looking forward to seeing more.
     
  8. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    Looking good.....put the kid to work cleaning up and have him do little things....get him hooked and make sure you take him for a ride when the car is running.....
     
  9. He and his brother have came over to help me before -- so it is nice that they are interested and willing to learn. It is amazing how fast they can learn to use tools once you show them a bit and get them started. I was very fortunate to have some really great mentors in my life -- when I look back, it amazes me how they managed to find the time and were always willing to teach. I was a fortunate kid . . . for too many reasons to count!
     

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