TECH - From a $25 32 Frame to a Rolling Chassis...

When I was about 18, I started collecting parts to build a Model A. I got 29 sedan body and few other parts. One day I was wondering around behind an old machine shop and I couldn't believe my eyes. A 32 frame laying in a trash pile. I asked the owner if he would sell the "old car frame" out back. He said, "You mean that 32 Ford frame? How about $25." I couldn't get the cash out of my pocket fast enough. What a deal, right?

The frame had been in an altered drag car of some sort. The frame was fully boxed and had a tube front crossmember with a suicide perch, tall motor mounts set back about 18", a hefty transmission crossmember with some cool holes in it and it was bobbed off in the back with a Model A rear crossmember.

Now almost 20 years later I decided I was finally ready to build something from this pile of parts I had been collecting. I have since traded the sedan body for a 29 sport coupe body and then sold that when I got the cutoff pickup cab. Here is the frame and cab I started with just over a year ago...



...and this is where the learning experience started. I brought the old frame into the shop and started measuring things up. I knew it needed new frame horns, so I bought a pair of ASC 29" front frame sections and rounded up a Model A front crossmember.



We found that the left rail had been hit hard at the cowl and was bent in about 3/4" and the front of the reveal was formed out of Bondo.



We cut out the a section of the boxing plate out, welded in some bracing and used a bottle jack to straighten out the rail. We also worked the reveal back in.



(cont)...

 

After the front horns were welded on and rails boxed in again, I turned my attention to the rear of the frame. I leveled everything up in the front, only to find the rear rails out of level by about 3/4". Without a frame table to tie to, I had to figure out some way to straighten this thing out. I decided to make some anchor plates that would bolt to my shop floor.

I made six of these...



...and used drop in concrete anchors to bolt them down. When I am done with them, they unbolt and I have some allen bolts that I can thread in to keep crap out of the threads and everything is flush with the floor.



With those in place I was able to level the front of the frame on some adjustable stands and then chain the whole thing down.



We left the right rear rail loose, as that is the one that was low. We put a bottle jack under it and tweaked it until we had everything level and square.



(cont...)

 

After we got everthing where it needed to be, I moved onto replacing the rear rails. Since I am building a p/u, I went with 2x4x.120 rect tubing for the rear rails and spliced them in at the top of the rear kickup, just forward of the axle center line. The rear of the frame was pretty rough, so this is what the splice started out like...



I cut a template for new boxing plates and torched a pair out of 3/16" plate.




I welded those in along with new bottom pieces to form the c-notch while the whole frame was still chained down and leveled.



I mocked up a 7.50-16 and the bed to determine ride height...



...and figured out that I need to flatten the 39 rear crossmember I got from Grimlok.



With that done, it was then tacked in between the new rear frame rails.



(cont...)

 

Everything ended up square and level. Now it was time for to take on the center crossmembers. I wanted to keep the neat old transmission crossmember with the holes, as that was the only identifiable piece left from this frames race car days. I needed some sort of a K-member, as I am using a stock 32 front wishbone. One day I was browsing through the drawings on Mac VanPelt's site, and noticed the 37 truck crossmember.

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Since the big trucks used the same size wishbone ball, I found what I needed. I knew my dad had a few of these frames in the pile, so I scavenged the lower half. I had my brother form a new top half and then fit it all together.



My brother also formed some tapered channels to tie the 37 crossmember to the old trans crossmember.



Since I am going with an open driveline I decided to tie the rear radius rods together ala Roach Rod. I used 36 rear forgings, 40 front tubes (they are 3/16" wall thickness) and a Model A front yoke and ball.



I used another 37 truck crossmember for the wishbone socket and welded it into the old transmission crossmember as it was in a great place to mount the rear radius rods.



And here it is bolted together



(cont...)

 

I did some measuring and found that a 41-48 Ford car gas tank would be a near perfect fit, so I rounded up one of those and mounted that between the 39 crossmember and the rear receiver hitch.



I used the standard F-1 shock mounts on the front and Hotrodvon sold me some lever shocks that worked out real neat on the rear...



...and that about makes a rolling chassis.




Was it worth it? Yes, I think so. I like the fact that the frame is mostly Ford, plus the sentimental value.

Would I do it again? Knowing how I drag home junk, I probably will. But now I know why people spend the $$$ for good origianl or buy new rails and start from scratch.

Now I need to finish up the $50 cab that was such a good deal...

Neal

BTW, I know some of the pics are reruns, but I thought they helped to tell the whole story.

 

wow - nice work
simply unbelievable

 

I think you win Tech week...

 

Great Tech. That looks killer. Great job!!!

 

nice job and great way of making tiedowns in the floor

 

Nice work, Neal.

I always enjoy your posts, so it's relly nice to see it coming all together.

It's got a great, low stance, and perfect sized tires.

--Matt

 

neil,

please remember to post (after this thing's complete and been driven for a while) how those shocks work lying down like that. i know some folks on here looked it up and they should work just fine; i'd just like to hear it from someone who's experienced it in reality.

 

Great job... great tech...

 

Excellent work!

And those floor anchors are slicker than snot!

 

Absolutly beautiful Neil!! I love the frame work. Man that's a lot of piece-work. Who needs a frame jig,when you got a concrete floor,and hot-rod inginuity! I vote tech week winner. Glenn

 

Very usefull and clever solutions. What a prescription.....

 

I love it when you post stuff like this!

 

I've been watching you since ??? and when not possible having my wife print off anything by you and a few others on here.

With you Neal as always, patience & quality. Probably half my age and your a great inspiration for those moments when it just has to be done.

 

Well Done
JR

 

looking good. can't wait to see the cab in progrss and on the frame. this the kind of stuff that get's me motivated.

 

[ QUOTE ]
looking good. can't wait to see the cab in progrss and on the frame. this the kind of stuff that get's me motivated.

[/ QUOTE ]

How's this?



Neal

 

Daaaang, that's nice. Very nice work and a bitchin' ride!
More pics later?

 

You never cease to amaze.

Top notch.

 

Great job, Neal! Thank God for tech week. Just awesome work!
Bil

 

Awesome work. Your RPU is bad ass. Can you tell us some specifics on those floor anchor plates?

 

All I can say is I like old fashioned hot rodding. This is an example that I hope all the young guys read. This isn't 1-800 rod building folks. Thanks,

Frank

 

Neal, keep up the good work. Your creativity has overcome the problems with a successful result. Good inspiration for the rest of the people to see how a little thinking can solve the problem, even without large sums of money.

 

That is some awesome tech and ingenuity. Your frame looks great. That is a very cool looking r.p.u.. Nice work man.
Jimmy White

 

Neal, thanks for posting all of these steps and photos together. I really like seeing how it's coming together. You've done some awesome work and definitely have the vision to know your goal.

 

Neal, that truck looks damn awesome! Just goes to show what a few scrap parts and alot of hard work and ingenuity can do. Excellent work! Definitley inspiring.

JM