Technical Zips water pump riser question (I did use the search function first)

I know the subject has been cover A LOT, but I can't find an answer to my question. Deuce Roadster (and the instructions) said that you need to run a hose from the water pump heater fitting to the head pipe plug around #6 cyl. for water circulation because the lower hole on the passenger side of the block is now covered. If you look at the stock water pump you can see the lower hole connects to the out flow, so water is pushed into the block through the hole via the pump.

My question is if I bore out the Zips casting where the hole is and connected a tube from there to the heater outlet port on the new 6cyl water pump that should do the same thing.....right?.....I just needs to be the right size tube (maybe 1/2").

 

Is this what you are talking about?

I took this photo just before I replaced the bad water pump. HRP

 

That one looks like it's going to the intake from the water pump. I'm talking about making a hole where the original pump has one and then hooking up a tube from the new port to the heater hose port on the water pump. I was thinking either out the front of the Zips housing or out the side (both with a pipe threaded hole) and the either threading the port on the pump or a tapped in tee if I want to use the heater hose port.

But the hole in the Zips housing would be here:

 

I had to re-read your question a few times. Yes it should do as you say.

 

It seems to me if you drill the red hole by the read arrow, the hole will match the hole in the block, but not provide a way to attach a hose.

 

I'm using a Zips riser and simply plugged that fitting for the heater hose and it has been working very well.

 

If @1oldtimer were to drill from the side as arrow points and down from circle to create a 90 degree bore into one another it should work fine.

 

I was thinking of drilling into the back (red hole in pic) tapping it on the side where the red arrow is in the pic, running a tube up the side (after I cut off all the brackets on the riser) and then going into the heater hose port of the water pump. You could tap into the exit side of the water pump anywhere, even just above and behind the lower hose to hide it but I think it will get more flow with the heater hose nipple.

I just don't like the look of the rubber heater hose coming from the rear cylinder area, plus if I run rams horn manifolds the hose will get baked.

Just going to follow the curvature of the housing (crappy pic in paint, I don't even have Photoshop anymore).

 

Bleeder valve in centre

 

Here's how I did mine. I only needed a 1" riser and couldn't find one, so I made my own. On a hoodless car I thought a heater hose running down the side and avoiding contact with the headers wouldn't look good. For the bypass I drilled and tapped the heater hose outlet for 3/8" NPT and ran it back to the intake. Someday I will make it a hardline all the way.

 

Water from a standard pump goes in the large holes the small hole goes back to the intake side of the pump to circulate coolant in the engine when the thermostat is closed. Drilling the hole in the zips unit would not get water back the intake side. Vortec engines do not have that hole in the block so they use a hose from the pump to the intake manifold.

 

Why not as it's the same path that the stock short pump takes. It goes from the outlet side of the impeller back into the lower hole in the block. Anyways I was just thinking of a harder, more elaborate way to recirculate the water.

 

I was thinking of tapping it in the backside of the nipple so I can still use a heater (or even inline after the nipple to not have any problems with a warranty of the pump). I also found the last HD pump in my 50 miles, went to pick it up and it's missing the plate on the impeller......figures......I ordered another one.

 

If you look at a standard V8 pump you will see the bottom hole goes into the lower radiator hose passage. If your heater does not shut off the water flow to control heat you are OK.

 

Gotcha, I wasn't thinking of having a heater control valve...but that's a good point.

 

these were used on 87-92 Cameros https://www.partsgeek.com/9sd3cbs-chevrolet-camaro-heater-valve.html#immersedview

 

Here is how I did mine. No problems so far,

 

Have used the Zip twice. Both times used hose from water pump to heater fitting in the intake. So far no issues. Who makes the heavy duty pump with the cover on the impeller.

 

I made mine and pop riveted to pump impeller. I used a small piece of aluminum i had on hand.
Ed

 

Auto Zone shows a pump with the covered impeller BWP 386 HDA 34.95
Duralast brand

 

I've used several Zips risers and I have always installed a bleeder valve in the top to get the air out. I to got my water pump with the covered impeller from Auto Zone

 

Bleeder that can be used with the riser instead of the screw that comes with it.