The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by johnk320, Feb 22, 2011.
Thanks for this thread reference, Tricknology. I've placed a post trying to revive it.
Thanks, I'll check this one out too...
isky 505 T solid lifter/flat tappet cam specs
RPM-Range (3000-7000) Valve Lift (.505 .505) Valve Lash hot (.030 .030) ADV Duration (290 290) .050 Duration (254 254) LC 108
IF you are on a budget and want a cam real close to a 505 T
cam only ~ $65 w/lifters $115
for $200 you get thw complete kit,,,
Complete Oval Track Cam Kit, Kit #2, Mechanical, .504/.504
Mechanical Oval Track Kit #2 (2500-6500 rpm)
Duration @ .050": 256/264
Adv. Duration: 287/295
Lobe Center: 106
Complete Oval Track Cam Kit
Compatible parts that insure peak torque, horsepower and reliability, all at a special package price. Grinds that really work! Each kit is specially designed with matching cam and lifters, valve springs, chrome moly retainers, HD valve locks, locking cam plate with bolts, Cloyes timing set, valve seals and cam lube.
Mechanical Oval Track Kit #2 (2500-6500 rpm) Includes:
♦ Mechanical Cam (PN 1091)
♦ Mechanical Lifters
♦ 98212 Springs
♦ Lightweight Moly Retainers
♦ H/D Locks
♦ Cloyes Roller Timing Set
♦ Cam Bolt Locker & Bolts
♦ Umbrella Seals
♦ Cam Lube
Heres another one you can consider.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/RB Cam Specs.htm
I used alot of Racer Brown stuff years ago, mostly in Mopars, used an STX 21 in a 340 small block, pretty big cam for the street, but ran REALLY well, and also an ST21 in a street driven 340, excellent cam at the time. A friend of mine ran an STX 22 in a street driven/raced hemi, pretty big cam, car was fast as hell. I havent done any business with the guy who is selling this stuff now, so I am not recommending him necessarily, but it IS a source for some of the best grinds around from the late sixties.
IIRC, At the time, the STX-21 and 22 were .904 tappet specific, which means that Racer Brown felt the tappet acceleration rate was too too aggressive to be used with a .842 dia. tappet. I notice he doesnt appear to make that distinction on his website. Kinda makes me wonder...
Thanks guys! I'll check into these as well. I've tried pricing a 505 kit from Isky's site but apparently you need to be a vendor to get their prices. It would be nice to have those figures to comparison shop. I don't have any idea if a 505 would be a hundred or a thousand bucks!
Knowing my goal of building a very traditional/old school 327, can anyone suggest "in the day" grinds from other mfgs such as Engle, Schneider, Howards, etc? There was a cam mfg that many racers from the Buffalo, NY area used in the '60s by the name of Schooler. Does anyone have any info on them?
I have no idea how this article might relate to drag racing, or the cam in question, but I thought I'd zip you the link. A TRACO 302 build from the day. On another auto site. Gary
Jeepers Gary, I check there every day and somehow missed that article.
Just found this thread, and read it all. In 1968, I bought a new Z28 and ordered it with 4:10 gears, and ran it that way for 2 months. Changed to 4:88s to make it really come alive. As already been said, these cams need RPM, and the reason the 302/Z28 only came with 4 speeds, is cuz they didn't have the torque to pull a automatic.
Thanks for the memories.
How much duration is too much for a street car? Not trying to hijack this thread.
That is just it, the old grinds are better in a lot of ways, Anouther thought is that most HOT cams today they dont expect someone to run it 50k miles, but the factory ones were built to be almost trouble free for the life of the car, some cams like the 140 may not be expected to outlast the cam in you gramma's 2bbl 283 impala, but are still gunna be more reliable than many modern grinds
Some of those companies are still around, call them up and have them dust off some old grinds, Try clay smith too
Hijack away, voodoo! I'm open to any thoughts on the subject
@Shaggy - Yeah, I'm gonna do that to see what's out there
Voodoo it really depends on how you drive. Are you willing to run with your revs up all the time? If high rev criuising is gfood for you then a long duration cam is fine for the street. If not then you don't want one.
If your cengine doesn't start climbing up on the cam until you hit 4k then you need to be running 4K at least 90% of the time.
The cam in the street engine I am putting together is up around 290 and it is an ancient grind, not a modern split cam. I'll need to keep my revs up with it but that doesn't bother me.
What you want to avoid for the street is an ultra high lift cam. When your lift gets up into the OH WOW range you have to go to ultra high pressure springs. Those springs are hard on valve train components.
I ran the 754 cam in my 70 Z28 for a while. It idled kinda sorta at about 1400, would get revs real quick. Pulled hard to around 9000. Motor would come apart at 9500.
@PnBnr - ultra-high lift??? like above ._ _ _??? (fill in the blanks) I can't imagine that a 140 or even an Isky 505 would fall into this category, right?
the correct part number is 3927140 it was the first design off road cam for the cross-ram 302 was never in a production car parts item only if you install one make sure you use screw in rocker studs or pin the press in ones or you'll pull the studs out when you give it a hot supper!!! also if you use a solid lifter cam be sure you use a racing oil with zink & phosporus or you'll eat a lobe in a new york second!!! the cam is great it pull like a bastard
I'll be using this cam with camel hump heads so the screw-in studs won't be a problem. Thanks for the tip on oil. Any brand preferences?
Brad Penn Oil .... period.
I have one in my 40 over 283 with 601 heads a torker intake in a 55 chevy with 4 speed and 337 gears it will melt the tires and pulls hard all the way to 7500 rpms best cam i have had with only 10.1 comp
Thanks for the input! Much appreciated!
Unless you're driving a '69 Z28 with 3.73s from the beach in California to Dillon, Colorado in a Thanksgiving snowstorm. Got mighty tiresome listening to that bastard howl.
You start running into valve spring/lifter problems up around .6,things seem to go up exponentially around .660. I personally prefer a lower lift, longer duration cam shaft. it is a personal preference and not much in agreement with modern technology or thinking.
5 years later? The sarcasm font on my computer isnt working.
here ya go buddy.
porknbeaner.....there for whenever anyone needs him.
LOOK! There in the Gutter!! Is it a lush? is it a drunken hillbilly?? Aw shit, its just SUPER BEANER!!!
A couple of F.Y.I's. I have a new Mellings copy of the 140 cam I would sell or trade. Also Jim at Racer Brown is a pretty good friend. I think I can say the STX-22 can't be used with a Chevy lifter and the STX-21 can. And the ST-21 can. But it also has a fairly fast ramp and a large .200 number. But I will ask tomorrow.
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