The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bandit Billy, Jun 29, 2018.
Then you probably shouldn't show him your paint sprayer either!
Wow! you have been watching me paint again. Damn
Didn't see it mentioned but aren't the inside windshield moldings (trim) different between a 39 and 40? Maybe you got them with the window frame.
Yes they are as the 39 window opens. Mine will not open and my 40 trim fits perfectly. Sorry it took so long to respond, I have been working on other stuff while I am waiting for warmer weather to paint.
One of the projects I wanted to get done was the rear license plate light. If you recall @Chris sold me a couple super deluxe bumpers and one had a cool art deco front plate holder. I moved it to the rear and needed to work out a plate light. After seeing what @X38 did to his I took a similar approach (thanks for the idea).
This is the mount. Pretty cool looking. I could use license plate light bolts but that is kinda bush league so I got creative.
First off I had to chop the back open for a light with the plasma cutter. I left the bolt pads but the center (yellow highlighted) is no longer.
Then I slit the plate mount 4" across the center and down both sides 1". Using the tech week approach winner this year on making your own louvers I modified that process slightly. Using a torch, heavy hammer and a chisel I opened up the "louver" until I had a nice slit for the light to pass through. Then I welded up the sides and ground it smooth.
I hit with 800,1000, 2000, 3000 and 5000 and it turned out pretty good. I'm happy with it.
It looks like I stamped a louver in it. Lights off
The light is from a LED pocket flashlight. It will get a incandescent bulb in a F body light bracket which has it's own glass bezel. I am not a big fan of LEDs. This will be cool and very one off.
This will get dropped off Monday for some chrome plating along with the 39 windshield frame. I think that is all of the chrome for this one. But we will keep an open mind.
Nice work man.
Thanks man. As soon as I saw your post on your sloper's plate lights I have been thinking about how to pull this off on this piece.
Like I told @Pist-n-Broke on a text earlier, I figured if I screwed it I could always weld it back together, it's only metal after all. Worked out better than I was planning. I was going to find a 4" louver and cut/weld it into the piece. This was a lot tidier.
These pickups were strictly a utilitarian vehicle "back in the day", you're erasing that one custom touch at a time.
Very nice! But, of course.
Glad you’re back at it. I was needing some inspiration.
Thanks Tim, slick is what I was aiming for!
I would guess that 99.99% of the population will never even notice that I did anything to that plate bracket. That is the kind of custom stuff I admire is when it is so subtle that it could be factory.
But of course, LOL. It snowed here last week but overall the temp is heading up and that means back on the paint job. That will inspire me too!
I illuminated the plate frame today. I couldn't use the camaro plate light that I had as the space is too tight so LED strip light it is.
Applying the "use what the hell you can find in your shop" method I sourced these SS corners. I recently re-decorated my office and I installed these on all of the corners to reduce the amount of obvious abuse the walls and corners get. It left me with 40 or so of these 4" cuts.
I welded the angle to a couple of washers and I set the depth while bolted into the piece to make sure it fit where I wanted. Then I polished the tray where the light goes.
Now it uses the bumper bolts to attach. The 90 degree SS keeps the light headed where I want and if it bleeds out the bottom of the bumper it will be easy to seal shut. I may have to drill my bumper to run the wire through but I am hoping there is a gap at the bottom where the wiring can run.
Chrome shop tomorrow.
The other item I needed to check off prior to chrome shop drop off was to separate the frame and get the connectors out. One was a ugly home built unit and one was original. I had to drill the screws out of the original one so I hopped on like the other day and bought a foot of aluminum the correct size and made 3 blanks (one extra in case I f'd up).
I used the original one as a guide for both the hole placement and the slight curve they have to fit the inside of the windshield frame.
I purchased some screws from Carpenters and drilled/tapped them.
They fit nice and the frame slides apart easily so off to the chrome shop!
I also got two of those SS trim clips that cover the gap in the frame. They are for a 36 but thy fit just fine.
If you need connectors, I can send you the extra one I made to use as a sample.
I really like your light idea!
Well done (of course) on both the light adapter and the windshield connectors!
Thanks Gents, I al completely stalling of course. The weather is warming here and it will be warm enough soon to erect my paint booth in my courtyard and paint outside.
Next up those damn drippy strombergs need to come off my roadster and get seal kits. I'll start taking it apart today.
No worries. We'll be here when you get back to it.
Weather is warming here, we have some 70's and an 80 next week! That means close to painting time.
In preparation I built a couple of door stands out of the two remaining engine stands I collected. I had some scrap steel left over from a spare tire carrier I built for my car trailer so I cut and drilled two 1 foot long pieces, welded a length of exhaust pipe to them and using two holes in the interior door I bolted them on.
The engine stands have bolts welded to them so I can swivel and tighten as need be.
Once they were bolted on I removed the hinge pins and slid them into the stands.
Now they can be painted inside and out as well as the jambs in one step.
I also removed the chrome hinges and cleaned the primer off of them and the bolts so the doors will be ready to remount on the cab once they are painted. I plan to mount the freshly painted cab on the frame which is in another garage so gradually my shop will get less cluttered and less chance of screwing up my new paint job.
The cab, cowl vent, dash parts and doors will go to the booth first. I need to hit them with 400 and then a quick 600 wet, pressure wash the dust out of it (and the stands as they are layered in dust) and let them dry. I have been waiting to do the final sand until it was close to painting time to reduce the chance of surface contamination.
Where my daily is sitting is where I plan to erect my inflatable booth and get with the painting. Once started I would like to be finished painting of all of the truck within a week. One of these door stands will get converted to a tail gate stand after the doors have rejoined the cab.
One step closer.
That's a great idea on the engine stands and doors.
Note to self: copy this along with the fender idea.
I copied the fender idea months ago. Brilliant!
Thanks guys, and I am glad to be of assistance. Engine stands are plentiful and cheap...and resalable when you are finished with them. Or you can start an engine collection and impress your friends.
I got the windshield frame back from plating and had my glass shop cut some green glass and put it together. That will get slid under a bed upstairs until I am ready for it. This is a 37-early 38 frame, did they have clips to fit over the sides where the cut is? I bought a pair for a 36 ford for those frames must be wider. I can probably re-bend the ones I have. Doesn't need them but looks a bit more detailed with them added.
Speaking of beds, one more item that I needed to build prior to painting was a bed apparatus to hold it for painting. I have to be able to paint the inside and out side at the same time. Using lumber bits form the other cart I had it on, I built this over the weekend.
It holds the bed securely but I did not make it wide enough (or I am too wide...more the case) to duck into the center section to paint the front of the bed and the forward sides. The lift is there in case my engineering didn't hold.
So tonight I will take it back apart and widen the base several inches, Turn the top 2x4's on end and mount them to the outside of the 4X4 uprights and I am going to try to cut out the center of front 2X6 in the picture so the floor is clear to walk through. Right now I have to step over and duck at the same time which is fine once, but I have a sealer coat, 3 color coats and 3 clear coats to do. I can't do move that 7 times in a paint suit with my respirator on. With my vertigo I will fall over and ruin the paint job.
With the floor clear I want to be able to sit on that stool in the background and roll under the bed and stand up in the center section to paint. I am not a carpenter but I think I can figure this out.
Or I could paint it on the lift but I would rather use the paint booth. Interested in your thoughts and comments.
When I paint anything I do a "walk thru" (dry run) so to speak, with my gun, and hose, mimicking the spraying so I can address any potential obstacles, and increase familiarity of movements required.
The controlled atmosphere (paint booth) is the obvious choice..not to mention alleviating over spray in your shop doing it on your lift.
Now if our weather would realize it is now the middle of June, and not the start of Spring.
You got this, don't over think it.
Just a thought.... Can you hang it from the cross sills then go back and touch up those areas? That probably wouldn't show when it's mounted to the frame.
The weather is weird. There is an excellent chance we are going from 55 and raining to 90 in a hurry. My painting window I think is next week. I phone says clear and 70 all week. I have some sanding and cleaning to do to get ready.
My paint booth is a blow up, bouncy house like gizmo so there is nothing to hang anything from. I need everything on wheels to roll it in and out. I thought about your idea over the last few months but I couldn't figure it out.
Is there a clip-on piece that goes on the center divider missing, or did the truck not have that?
I think there should be stainless pieces that clip around the side joins.
I looked on line and couldn't find anything. I bought the 36 clips but they are too wide. I think it will be pretty easy to use them.
DDDenny I have seen that used .
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