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Technical Y Block High Torque Mini Starters

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GreenGrenade, Sep 12, 2016.

  1. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,157

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Hey guys, the 239 in my 54 is making a crazy racket when it fires up, im assuming the bendix is causing an issue with the gear disengaging. I see theres a few places that sell a new style high torque mini starter, they eliminate the whole bendix style shaft. Have you guys tried these starters, robbmcperformance.com, qualitypowerauto.com, autoelec.com, and ford-y-block.com all offer one. The one from fordyblock.com is the only one thats a 3 bolt unit like the stocker, all others are a 2 bolt style. Ive read on other forums about them and everyone seems to love them, regardless 2 or 3 bolt mounting style, but the opinions are limited. Any help is appreciated. Thanks - Shane


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  2. Raunchy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2007
    Posts: 365

    Raunchy
    Member

    Powermaster has an ad in the new Street Rodder for mini starters for the Y Block and the Nailhead. I have used their stuff with success before. I have not used any you mentioned.
     
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  3. 55Brodie
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 746

    55Brodie
    Member

    I had the Auto Elect. 2 ear in my 55 with 312. One of the ears cracked, but it was still servicable with a big washer. Had I kept the car I would have sprung for Mummert's 3 ear unit.
     
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  4. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 532

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I wish I could remember the brand name reduction starter I put in my '55 Mercury when I converted it to 12 volts. I got it when they first came out, around 2000 (I think???). I do remember it was really expensive at the time. But, it really spins the motor over, hot or cold, everytime! :)
     
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  5. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 363

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    I have one because of an AOD trans swap I did in my bird. Works adequately. Engine is a stroker with high compression, But I know a stock FORD starter would swing it , it just won't fit anymore. And I miss the sound of all things!
    I would not switch over to a mini torque if all you need is either a starter rebuild or buying a rebuilt. They will have more than enough spin for a 239. I use a stock rebuilt in my truck also a 292. Works perfectly.
     
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  6. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 532

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree. But, I assumed the original poster (GreenGrenade) was at a point with his '54 to do the 6 to 12 volt conversion. The old 6 volt stuff was adequate at best. If anything (battery, cables, starter, etc) wasn't in tip top shape, you were lucky to get the car started. Besides, reduction starters are cheaper, now, they're more reliable than OEM (even the 12 volt) and they are SO much easier to install and remove! The reduction starters don't have that old grrrrrrr sound but, they do sound alot like a big block Chrysler turning over! :)
     
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  7. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,157

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Cars already 12v. I actually owned the car about 6 years ago when i was 18. I had trouble with the original starter then. The guy i bought the car back from said he had fiddled with a rebuild kit and it still has issues. Im kinda done messin with it. I love the y block but im not a big fan of the noise from the stock starter, Even when its working properly


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  8. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,157

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    I called mummert at fordyblock.com, his supplier hasnt been able to get him any recently and hes been waiting for weeks. I took another look at the starter from robbmcperformance.com. I heard great things on another forum about this one and after i second look i noticed that it too was a 3 bolt style like the mummert starter. All others are 2 bolt. I ordered the starter from robbmcperformance


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  9. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,502

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We have the starter that comes with the Wilcap to 700R4 trans deal. It looks like a mopar reduction starter that has had the nose cover over the gear cut off ,though not cut off pretty , imagine angle grinder and zip wheel . It works for OK though it seems to Suck voltage from the coil on cranking , well that's what we think . Car still starts ok but even bypassing the ballast it still only has 9v on start at the coil.
     
  10. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 363

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    That looks like it may be a real good choice, better than the one I have and it looks sorta factory. Let us know how it does.
     
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,796

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Also interested here...
     
  12. Did it take any floor pan or frame massaging to fit the AOD? Did you use the Bendtsen's adapter?
     
  13. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 363

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    Yes on the frame, no to the floorpan and Yes on the adaptor.
    If you want details you can pm me or I did a blog long, long ago about many of the details.
    The frame was just two slight cuts in the x member. I doubt anyone but an expert concours judge could tell and it certainly doesn't effect the strength of it. I figured out how to retain the stock shifter-which was one of my main wishes. here's the link
     
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