So I got a parts truck fer my 57 F100. It's got a 272 in it. I'm wantin to rebuild it to put in my truck which orig had the same motor. I'm wondering drawbacks, concerns, pros, cons or any useful info. I have noticed there isn't as much stuff fer 272 as there is fer 292 & 312 and was wondering why Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
May be interested once I find out if there's any reasons not to do this rebuild or whatever. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Salt flats it's pretty much cause I have that engine. I don't wanna go buyin somethin else cause I've got this one. Unless it's just a bad idea fer some reason. Never messed with a yblock or any other ford motor previous to this Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The best way to build a 272 is bore the cyl to 292 size the pistons are a lot cheaper. I have done this for several builds.
Other than that, it's same as a 292. Heads interchangeable and all that? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sorry I was just thinking about how I would build a 57 F100. Sounds like go for the .040 then you can still go to .060 later.
Here is fellow hamber hauling ass! it's even cooler in person. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv8u07OCFXE
Y blocks were a very much underrated engine. With a little work they could be made to run pretty well. As I recall, one of their big downfalls was oil to the rockers, something about the size of the oil passages or blocking of those. But since technology has advanced so much since they were first built I bet there are lots of tricks to make them more dependable and put out more hp. I knew a guy who had a sleeper 54 Ford coupe with a 292, trips, 312 blower cam, and deep gears. He was stomping 57 Chevies and other cars regularly back in the day. Don
Checked pistons this morning they are sterling and they are .060 over $60 + postage my Y block is gone.
Do some searching on here, lots of info. I modified my 272 oiling system to provide full pressure to the rockers, only after replacing the rockers and shafts (cannot do it with used parts) as you lose too much pressure. All heads interchange. Watch the port sizes on aftermarket intakes as compared to your heads. Use a later than '57 distributor to get mechanical and vacuum advance. If you do the rebuild yourself, watch out for the timing chain, it is setup different than others. Use hollow pushrods and high lift rocker arms. Change your valve springs to match your cam. Y a Y block......its different
Igor, hang out here, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=332 where most of the Y blockers hang out. The Y block is a great engine to run, but not understood by many. Feel free to email me directly for overhaul and modification advice.
The way most guys go is to bore the 272 to 292, but sunbeams price for a set of pistons is a good deal. I bored a 272 out to 292 because I already had a set of Jahns pistons for it. To get the best info on Yblocks ck out yblocksforever.com & John Mummerts ford-y-blocks.com. John has plenty of goodies for this engine & has a section for casting numbers for blocks & cyl heads to see what you have & a page of common mistakes made with Yblocks. Tim McMaster on here (McTim) also has plenty of tips.
Igor, I have a sweet tri-power setup and a set of old chrome valve covers..If I still have em in July I could bring to Syracuse to tease you with,lol...
There is no reason to not rebuild the 272. It is like the 265 of the small block chevy family in regard to hot rod parts. You won't find any parts sold specifically for the 272 but nearly everything from the Y block family will work with it. Camshafts, intakes, etc. What you will find is that the 292 is the most common engine to be buult because of its larger displacement and availability and the 312 being the most desirable, but the 272 is a fine engine for what it is a small displacement Y block.
Don't the truck Y blocks have a little heavier rod, which makes them more desirable to rebuild? The heads can be reworked to accept larger 2.02"/1.60" valves, and really wake up the little Y block. I'd jump on those pistons at $60 too, as NOS parts are hard to find!
Can you really take a .0125 out of a 272 without piston wall problems? Maybe collapsing the wall's and after that could you ever clean up the cylinders again or would it be scrap? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Can you run without the forward motor mount on the ford y block it seems not needed with the two side motor mounts Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
There's also info at www.webrodder.com The walls are thick, but with any engine if you go max overbore that it, no more overbore. Should do a sonic check for core shift.
If you use an air cleaner on your engine, and change the oil every 5000 or so with a new filter, and plumb in a PCV at overhaul time, you wont live long enough to require a rebuild. If you ruin one hole, sleeve it. Look around in the Y block forum part of the Ford Barn and the HAMB. There are pictures showing where to cut on ports, how to upgrade a factory four barrel intake, and how to improve the rocker oiling. The best factory rods are a C1TE (61 Truck) casting. Your stock rods will be fine for street use if rebuilt right. Dont try for 2.02 intakes with a small bore. I use 1.94 and 1.6 valves in my 320, and the new aluminum heads have smaller valves but flow like gangbusters. A .060 bore on a 272 can be a wonderful, fun to drive, economical engine for a pickup. With a modern five speed, you will get years of good use from it.
I had a 272 I built in Sacramento in 1969. Machine work all done by a Y-block guru pal, $60. Bought pistons for $120, Clay Smith cam, $55. Did my own heads, (ported, matched w/4-BBL intake from '56 292) Put it in my '54 Ford Coupe. Ran so well I HATED replacing it with my 427 side-oiler...for a few minutes, at least. I kept the 272, finally sold it to a customer with an F100. He still has it, loves it. I'd do the engine, keep the front mount. Makes for a very tight drivetrain.
never liked the front mounts -- took em ALL off mine -- howEVER -- they DO prevent engin LIFT when ya break the left mt on hard accelleration
LOVE "the" Y-BLOCK sound listen as I pull out after assistin this littl lady -- got an Ed Hanson dual exhaust w glasspacs bout 2 years old now -- the BEST!
Probably wouldn't hurt to check that the decks are equal distance from the crank center line & that they are square top to bottom & front to rear.
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