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Wishbone mounts: Does this scare anybody?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by h.i., Apr 3, 2013.

  1. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 415

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

  2. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

    Why didn't you press them in all the way to the shoulder, and weld on the back? it looks like they were welded on the front side. They should still be OK...my 2 pennies.
     
  3. Can you bolt the ball from the back side? I think they look good but I bet you are wondeing about the stresses? & that I,dont know.
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,467

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It all depends on the welding. If you used too much heat and undercut that shaft, it may be weak and break.
     

  5. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    iT LOOKs fine

    it looks good

    . . . . . . . it looks OG
     
  6. I would be concerned about stress.

    This type of setup is fine for a drag link but in this configuration you are asking a lot more than what the ball system is designed to withstand,,just my 2 cents worth.HRP
     
  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    It's not a concern, that's why he split them. It's a Bonaville car, it's not ment for stress nor articulation.
     
  8. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,436

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Fully agree with this. It would be hard to say if I would be scared without seeing a better picture of the weld. (edit here: just adding that I am no expert on what makes a safe weld)

    That said, if you're really planning to race at Bonneville it doesn't matter what me or most anyone else on the HAMB thinks. It's going to be up to the tech.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  9. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,300

    badshifter
    Member

    Should have pressed them in and welded the back side. Also, the transition from wishbone to tie rod end is not real pretty.

    And if you were serious about not worrying about stress because it's just a Bonneville car....
    I hope you are not on the build crew.
     
  10. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 415

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

    Not sure where the bonneville idea came from, this is not a race car. I was hoping to finish it and drive it out there this year but we shall see. They were too short to weld the back side. The extra space on the thin part of the shaft is clearance for the rubber seal and articulation of the joint.

    I was mostly concerned with shear load breaking it off or the weld cracking. I did not undercut the shaft while welding. I had thought about another bead over the top of the first one.

    I'll get some better pics up in a bit. Thanks for the input everyone.
     
  11. If this car is being built for Bonneville then the tech team will tell the tale,, not us.

    BTW,anytime someone ask for my opinion I will never say anything as ludicrous as "It's not a concern",,anything that could have a potential for failure is a concern,for both the driver of the car and people sharing the road way or the causal observer on the salt.HRP
     
  12. C. Montgomery
    Joined: Dec 18, 2003
    Posts: 1,010

    C. Montgomery
    Member

  13. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Leave it, it's fine. More heating & cooling cycles is bad. Makes the area brittle

    Don't worry about sheer streght. The OG Model A connection at the trans is weaker, a Model A bell Housing will crack off before those.
     
  14. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    NA, these are bolt-on.

    "his is more refined" Sounds like an opinion to me;)
     
  15. Six-Shooter
    Joined: Jul 12, 2010
    Posts: 341

    Six-Shooter
    Member
    from Ohio

    Hey, it's a roll of the dice every time we go for a ride!
     
  16. jonathan
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 390

    jonathan
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    The weld is really just holding the ball in the bracket. The front suspension (spring, axle, wheel/tires) is carrying the weight of the vehicle. This part really only sees force under braking or in a severe impact, in which case, there would be more to worry about.
     
  17. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    ????......Are thy pressed into a "blind" hole?
    I see your concern about the thin part of the shaft below the ball, but, it would be there just the same, yes, as in that's they way they are made?

    I'd like to see a pic of the back side.
     
  18. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 415

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

    I think they are designed to be welded from both ends in a model a steering arm. Yes, blind hole. Here is the backside before welding:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    Hmmm......Looks like they pass all the way through to me.........."Blind hole" only has one side / entrance, etc.......

    Is that not the other end of the ball stud showing there?

    Too late for much of an undercut or step there, but you could still run a bead around it, for peace of mind.
     
  20. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 415

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

    The pictures are deceiving. The balls are pressed in to a blind sleeve. The sleeve is welded in to the cast piece. I'm more worried about the weld cracking than the sheer, but I wanted some other opinions. I had heard some of the 32-24 bolt in type balls have broken off of steering arms and got concerned.
     
  21. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member

  22. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 415

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

    Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in on this with constructive feedback, I appreciate it. I may replace these with tie rod ends just for piece of mind. I plan to drive the shit out of this car and I like to sleep at night.
     
  23. Not the look you're going for but you could drill the insert out & use it for hiem ends
     
  24. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,187

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    If you want to keep the '28-34 tie rod ends, why not fix a threaded and tapered ball stud into a bracket under the frame (same end goal....maybe just a better and serviceable method too).
     

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