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Technical Windshield sealant

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 63401nailhead, Nov 2, 2021.

  1. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 269

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from Oregon

    So we replaced the windshield gasket in our 1965 f100 and it was the kind that you are supposedly not supposed to use any sealant or glue of any kind. So we installed it dry, no sealer of any type. Anyway, it leaks now in the lower passenger corner. It seems to be isolated to just that spot, so I’m hoping to be able to pull it away in the corner and shoot some sealer in there without having to pull the damn windshield again. So what is the best stuff to use for sealing up a windshield? Thanks!
     
  2. Mike Lawless
    Joined: Sep 20, 2021
    Posts: 670

    Mike Lawless

    I'm interested in this as well. That flange that the seal latches onto is not very flat, especially in the corners. Seems it would make sealing that with just the rubber dang near impossible.
     
  3. I've had good success using Permatex #19752 or # 65AR (same product, diff. number). It's a flowable silicone in a small tube. I used it on both the front and rear glass on my Galaxie. No more leaks.
     
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  4. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 4,947

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  5. There's no such thing as a 'dry' glass gasket. What the OEMs used before switching to glue-in windows was a small bead of rubberized clay-like sealer (if you found any gray 'stuff' when removing the old window, that was it) with the gasket but I haven't seen it in years. I'm not sure what the current answer would be, most silicones work poorly and the current urethane they use needs a power caulk gun to get it out of the tube, plus it bonds so well I'd hate to have to change any glass.

    I'd look at Yamabond, available at most any Yamaha dealer. Not silicone, it's a flowable urethane (but far thinner consistency than the usual window stuff) that bonds/seals well but is pretty easy to clean/get off unwanted surfaces. This is what they use to seal engine cases with no gaskets, works great.
     
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  6. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 766

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    I purchased new glass from a supplier in CA and his recommendation was to use CRL Windshield and Body Sealant (or a 3M similar product such as recommended by Steele rubber)
    He claimed the material stays softish and does not harden up, thus loosing its ability to keep water/moisture out. He did stress that with heat from the sun/environment the material will ooze out but paint thinner can wipe it away with no harm to glass/rubber or paint.
     

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  7. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 10,467

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I use black silicone on every gasket set. Cut a fine tip, stuff it in the gasket and start squeezing while you move the tip. Once you're happy, rub the gasket with your finger, Get about 20 new single edge razor blades, spray glass cleaner over the glass and the squeeze over, clean it off with the blades. Like Steve said, if you use urethane, the glass and gasket will become one.
     
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  8. You can get it off of glass, but it's a real PITA. I suspect the gasket would be toast...

    I've cut a couple of the glued-in windshields out, it's real exercise in patience.
     
  9. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 269

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from Oregon

  10. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 10,467

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lol yeah on late model stuff, the windshield is actually part of the restraint system, in some cars, the passenger side airbag uses the windshield to change its direction, imagine if it was set in a gasket or on butyl seal o_O I've cut windshields for Model A Ford's for customers, and watched them put em in the frame with windshield urethane after I told them to use silicone lol
     
  11. If they put the glass into a U-channel, they are not going to be happy campers if it ever needs to be removed... :mad:
     
  12. Same stuff I recently used on my 52 Chevy windshield installation. Yes it does clean up easily with paint thinner. Car is still in garage so haven't tested the water leaking yet, but have confidence it will be leak free. The CRL (or 3M) stuff is made for *exactly* what OP needs to fix.
     
  13. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,969

    BamaMav
    Member Emeritus
    from Berry, AL

  14. I've used the 3M stuff and other glass glazing compounds in the past. What I used on the last 2 windshields, the calking tube of cheap silicone from the parts store. With a replacement glass and rubber you're never going to get the same fit as factory, so some sealant is going to be needed. I used this on my '56 Panel a few years ago and it's still leak free, I used it on my '41 pickup and it's leak free. Also I cut the tip small like Lloyd said, but for really tight spots I used a dental syringe with the tip cut off a little....they come in a bag and are disposable.

    BTW, I put it around the glass AND around the pinch weld.

    [​IMG]
    270.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2021
  15. 63401nailhead
    Joined: Apr 4, 2008
    Posts: 269

    63401nailhead
    Member
    from Oregon

    Picked up a tube of the 3M 8509. So should I run a bead between the glass and the gasket, or the cab and the gasket? Should it be applied from the inside or the outside? And should I just apply around the spots that are leaking, or should I just go ahead and run a bead around the entire thing? Thanks!
     
  16. When I finally fixed mine the way I found the source of the leak was by taking a very fine tiny and pointy probe and ran it along the edge of the rubber and and the cab surface. I found a spot right in the center at the top of the windshield where the rubber was just barely touching and that's where the leak was. I read somewhere another way is to soap up the joint really well and set your Shop-Vac on blower mode and run it around the inside and look for bubbles but that did not work for me since the water came in at the top of the window and went all the way down to the lower corner before it dripped inside. When you find where it might be leaking put some masking tape along both sides because you will always get the caulk all over the place. Let it sit for a little while and wipe it down clean it the best you can and then pull off the masking tape.

    Start here and scroll waay down:
    https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/DAMN-Windshield-gasketSS-trim/
     
  17. 41fordor
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 91

    41fordor
    Member

    Ugggh, I hate that butyl stuff. I have a 61 Falcon with a white headliner and I think I'll have to seal the gasket from the outside after roping it in so I don't ruin the new headliner.
     
  18. I always seal from the outside, you don’t want that water to sit inside and rust the pinch weld. On my panel I said screw it and sealed the whole thing.
     
    41fordor and desotot like this.
  19. desotot
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,037

    desotot
    Member

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