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Wilwood Dual Master Setup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pottsie454, Mar 17, 2012.

  1. pottsie454
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pottsie454
    Member

    So I finally got tired of that contraption I made for my brake and hydraulic clutch setup and I ordered a Wilwood assembly. Took several days to get the pedals mounted but its done and it looks great. But I am having problems with my front brakes not engaging. I have a 7/8s bore to the front and a 1 inch to the rear. This setup was what was recommended per Wilwood.

    I have 70s Camaro front calipers and rotors and late 70s Camaro 8.5 rear end with 7/8s bore drum brakes.

    Both front and rear circuits were power bleed with no air bubbles.

    I took it for a test drive and I had decent brakes, not great, but decent... but after a 5 - 10 miles of stop and go I pulled it in the garage and my drivers side rear was smoking! So I dont think I am getting front caliper engagement. I played with the bias bar, all the way to one side and then to the other with no change in brake feel.

    Does anyone think I need 1 inch bore to the front calipers and 7/8s to the rear?

    Picture of my setup. Looks suhweet. I will post a couple underdash pics tomorrow.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,112

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm curious, what sort of pedal feel do you have? I have the same setup & my brakes aren't that great. For example, I can't lock up the brakes (which might be a good thing on a light hot rod.) I have a hard feel to my pedal & I suspect that I miscalculated the M/C bore. I've got discs on the front & drums on the rear. I've got 1" all around, but suspect that I should have 7/8." Maybe we should switch M/C's.
     
  3. ddphillips
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 13

    ddphillips
    Member
    from Cincinnati

    The fronts definitely need more volume to operatet than the rears do. It sounds like there's not enough fluid going to the fronts to move the pads sufficiently to stop the car.
     
  4. pottsie454
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pottsie454
    Member

    Pedal is hard up top. I can lock up the rear brakes with very little pressure. I think I am going to do the swap just to see what happens unless someone chimes in and tells me I shouldnt.

    fleetside66, I will PM you with my findings. What size rear cylinders are you running?
     
  5. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,112

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    15/16" bore on the rear cylinders, not that I have any clue on how this relates to the whole setup..
     
  6. pottsie454
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pottsie454
    Member

    You use your caliper or wheel cylinder and pedal ratio to determine your master cylinder size. I have no idea what size master you need for 15/16s wheel cylinders but I was just wondering what you had compared to mine.
     
  7. pottsie454
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 399

    pottsie454
    Member

    I swap masters today. It seemed to help but I still dont have brakes like I think I should I am going to call up Wilwood tomorrow and get some advice.

    Also, on a side note after a longer then normal test drive I noticed that my driver side rear drum started smoking. It smelled like burnt brakes/ burning differential lube. I just got this rear end rebuilt so I am thinking its either the rear end braking in or when they re did the gears they got some lube on the brake shoes... Would anything else cause this? The shoes are adjusted correctly, not to tight or anything...
     

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