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Hot Rods Wilwood 260-1333 Pull Slave Cylinder

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by earlymopar, May 29, 2019.

  1. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,609

    earlymopar
    Member

    Just curious how many of you using this cylinder have had leakage issues. I've purchased (2) and neither have even made it into service. Both were or are new and leak at the "joint" where the cylinder is capped on the stationary or non-moving end of the cylinder. One is worse than the other but neither will fully bleed for obvious reasons. I see bubbles on both of them between the cylinder and cap.

    I'm going to look to see if Howe or others have a pull slave cylinder with similar travel....

    - EM
     
  2. I started buying the purple Speedway version. It's made by CNC. It's less money but the CNC made ones have a better piston seal in them IMHO. Whether it's blue or purple, I have had better results with them. None of these are designed for side pull. That has to be eliminated for any lifespan.
     
  3. I have used that one on two different cars successfully. My model A in my avatar has 15+ years and over 50k mi. with only one rebuild, no leaking or other problems. Just make sure you have a correct size master or adjust the linkage for the correct stroke/ratio.

    edit: One thing I did to compensate for any misalignment is use a Heim joint on both ends so it does not bind or hob the cylinder
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2019
  4. The Speedway push type I have is built for a little mis-alignment, so is the Wilwood clutch master.
     

  5. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,609

    earlymopar
    Member

    Yes, agreed. Between having very good alignment statically and the use of heim joints on each end, I have no misalignment issues. I've concluded that the "leakage" I have is actually air still in the slave cylinder (burbles @ the slave end cap when the slave pulls and extends). I've used conventional pedal bleeding, reverse-bleeding, vacuum bleeding, blocked the slave from travel and pedal-bled again and yes, created pedal pressure and released the fittings at both the slave and master. The master was and is bled and confirmed. I've tried 2 slaves and had the same result. I also (intentionally) increased the master to a 7/8" for more slave travel (not tied to this issue) but have the same burbling symptom. Next step is to remove the slave and immerse it in fluid (with the feed-line disconnected) and then cycle the piston to see if I can further bleed air out of it. I should add that I have NO locations where air is trapped or could be trapped in the feed line. Been doing this for decades and never seen anything like this. I'm also going to confirm my pedal push-rod adjustment once again to make sure I'm not accidentally placing the master cylinder piston in a location where it would inhibit correct fluid travel for bleeding.

    - EM
     
  6. Is there a chance you have a bad fitting or a crack in your soft line?
     
  7. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,265

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Hey Greg
    Did you by chance use any "thru frame" fittings? some are known to be air traps.
     
  8. Gotta be a bad connection (had one once.. tried to sell me a bag of catnip...) or an air trap as Denny suggests.

    My Wilwood master, bench bled quickly, put it all together and bled it at the slave in less time than it took to type this. By any chance does the hose run higher than the clutch master?
     

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