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Featured Hot Rods Who's running external clutch slaves

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by model A hooligan, Apr 28, 2018.

  1. Looking to put a clutch slave in the passenger side of the bell. I shortened my clutch fork and now it may be too short. I'd like some input on setups. This is a 3/4 slave from a Nissan,not sure if it would have enough push with the fork factory length so I shortened it. Can I mount it on the be by tapping it? A bracket would stick it out too far. Or should I lengthen the fork again? Never done this before
     

    Attached Files:

    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Mounting it like that will hit the block. Just double checked,any other pics of setups?
     
  3. Dennis D
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 431

    Dennis D
    Member

  4. My Speedway external slave is mounted to my bell housing and I use a stock truck clutch fork, but I have lots of room. Someone else here was struggling with this recently here.
     
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  5. My slave cylinder is almost touching the frame,it's real tight. Can't figure out if I need to mount it farther back with a longer rod or have it close to the fork with short rod.
    I suppose I need the trans in to really see. Right now I'm just working with the clutch in and bell
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  6. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 609

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Up to a point a longer rod is better. Bones
     
    porknbeaner likes this.
  7. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,670

    junk yard kid
    Member

    I made a bracket out of some angle iron so the slave is close to block, needed a brace as well.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. Here are pictures of few of the ones we made up. Build your mount strong; the slave cylinder exerts quite a bit of force during operation.
    Nothing wrong with a longer rod as long as it is rigid enough to resist bowing. I've made some push rods out of 5/8" DOM tube with sections of 3/8" bolt in each end.
    I guess I would get your throw out arm back to stock length; other wise it will take two legs to push the pedal down.
    Any pictures of bellhousing, trans, and throwout arm in the car?
    chev slave.jpg chry slave.jpg olds slave.jpg
     
    F&J likes this.
  9. Clutch fork back to stock length. You can see there's not much room for a slave rod
     
  10. Perhaps I should cut the arm and straighten it instead of swooping forward like it does?
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 3,327

    Marty Strode
    Member

    How about a pull slave on the back side ?
     
  12. 34toddster likes this.
  13. Nobody mentioned to buy anything.
    But you can not make that kit for $30.00 either
    I figured you get some good ideas and eventually find this picture there. Then find the picture quite useful.
    image.png
     
    banjeaux bob, pat59 and reagen like this.
  14. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 890

    justabeater37
    Member
    from Iowa

    I am running a 62 Chevy truck bell housing with a passenger side arm and slave setup from the factory. Its buried right now or I could get you a picture. Its in a model A chassis
     
    F&J likes this.

  15. Didn't say I could buy THAT stuff for 30. I said I had the parts to make something work for 30.

    Struggled till I realized to just cut the fork,straighten it,cut the end off and make it able to mount a small heim to it. Now that I've done that I get to re-do the slave bracket

    But yes,my bracket is similar in idea,I just have less room since I'm dealing with the starter on the passenger side. (While reason for the clutch on that side is I have no feet room on the driver side so I used up that spot for slope space.
     

  16. Cast bellhousing and I think it's larger than the car bellhousing I'm using. I'm already maxed out for room. I think I can get this to work with another day of fudgery. My concern is if this slave will actually work the clutch but the factory c10 slave isn't any longer so I'm hoping it works
     
  17. shortening the arm,
    you need less stroke (fluid volume) but will need more pressure to move it.

    One way to figure that all out is get the stock lengths, throws strokes and bores that are known to work together. Adjust from there with smaller bore master and larger bore slave. draw up the stock needed fork swing and measure the drawing at the modified fork length. You can sorta figure the changes needed on percentage basis starting with the modification to the fork arm percentage.
     
    nunattax likes this.

  18. Originally because I didn't like the idea,but now I'm thinking of making a mount off the trans crossmember and using the pull style
     
  19. I cut the fork before and had to lengthen it again. It's stock length and I straightened it now. But I think I'll go to a pull type because this push type needs to be mounted right on the starter. Can't even get to the starter bolts.

    My question is,does a pull type stand a chance of actuating the clutch better since it looks to be a bit bigger? And also since I have a 3/4 clutch master should I get the 7/8 slave or 3/4 to match the master?
     
  20. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 3,327

    Marty Strode
    Member

  21. mcsfabrication
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 588

    mcsfabrication
    Member

    Make sure the pull slave has enough travel. I used the purple one first, not enough travel, ended up using a Willwood, they're known to leak like Hell. But they are the only one I've found that has enough travel to work with my stock Chevy fork. I'm on my third one in two years. I'm in the process of making a bracket and will be using the Chevy truck push type on the next go-round. I foolishly tried the easy way first.
     
  22. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 3,327

    Marty Strode
    Member

    CNC makes some great products, they offer one.
     
  23. If you do use a pull cyl; be sure it is free of any side forces during operation, sure way to quickly kill it.
     
  24. That's the one I was going to get. The push one just isn't going to fit. And it has no snap ring to keep it from going to far.

    I've seen a lot of good reviews on 'the purple' one
     
  25. Think I'll make a mount off the crossmember and a heim at the fork.
     
  26. shortshift
    Joined: Nov 7, 2013
    Posts: 46

    shortshift
    Member

    Heres my pull slave on the AV8 with t5 trans. Had to shorten the throwout fork to match the pull length of the slave cyl. Works great and easy on the pedal P1010329.JPG
     
    bubba55 likes this.
  27. Should be attached to engine/tranny; too much lost motion if the butt end is hooked to the chassis.
     
  28. I have their clutch pedal unit. Looks to be pretty good so far
    i really don't want to cut this fork for the 5th time. I'd like to bolt the trans in and leave it in.

    I wonder how much I'd need to cut.
     

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