I recently traded for this '26 coupe. I am beginning to gather all the parts to rebuild the brakes on the front-end but I am unsure as what year these brakes are from. I have been told that by one person that they are 1940 Ford's and by another that they are 1946 Fords. Any help confirming which they are is greatly appreciated. Secondly, the performance of the brakes is horrible. After removing the drum today I noticed that the shoes that face the front of the vehicle on the front drums are completed glazed over and shiny. The shoes that face the rear of the vehicle seem untouched. I pushed on the brake pedal with the drum removed and noticed that only the shoes that face the front of the vehicle move outward. The shoes that face on the rear of the vehicle on the front drums had no visable movement. The one thing that stood out to me is that the front facing shoes appear to have some sort of extention welded on the tip that goes into the cylinder. Do the shoes look like they are on backwards? The welded extension looks like it was added after install to make it work. Thanks for any help you can give me.
And it looks like the drum is grinding away the backing plate. You got a mismatch of parts there. Can't help you, but I know that when you get that stuff working right the brakes will suprise you at how good they are on a lightweight car. Theres also a method for doing the initial adjustment that you need to learn about. When you get the right parts. The rear shoes might be hung up on the anchor pins. Take the back brakes apart, too. Maybe the same guy that did the fronts did them?
This is just for reference as I have their printed catalog beside me that gives an explanation on the early Ford hydraulic brakes. http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-ford-mercury-brakes-hydraulic-parts/camid/F30/cc/227/start/12/ The shape of the anchor end eye on the brake shoe gives you a pretty good indication of what year you have. From page 16 in the current printed Mac's catalog.
Well, you need new shoes anyways, because I think I see the lower part of the short shoe starting to delaminate? Meaning the bond is letting go. Maybe look at it real close. I have never seen an extension like that on any car make. If your backing plates do not have eccentric adjusters at the bottom anchors, then they are later 40s. 40 would have lower adjusters. So, if you don't have adjusters, and "if" the drums are worn oversize a LOT, maybe that is why they made the extenter? I dunno. Make sure you have 1-3/8" front bore, as that is what it should have, not the outdated 1-1/4 that was superceded by Ford on the earlier brakes like 40.
I didn't see what Gas Pumper mentioned at the first look but does look like the drum has been rubbing on the backing plate at least in that area. That could be due to mismatched parts or it could be due to a bent or misaligned backing plate. I'm also thinking that if you pop the wheel cylinders apart you are going to find that the piston on the big side is stuck in the bore.
Sure the front shoe is gonna move first 'cause of the larger bore on that side of cylinder. The other shoe will never move UNTIL the drum is replaced and the front shoe cannot travel any farther. Only then will the rear shoe move. DD
Those are the earlier style brakes '39-'41 with adjustable lower anchors. Bet somebody welded the extension on the shoe because the drums are way oversize. Good parts and proper adjustment will make them work like they are supposed to.
Looking at the front shoe the center of the lining is much thinner in the center compared to the ends. That tells me the drums are way over size. The lack of wear on the rear shoe may be due to the rear piston frozen up in it's bore. 39-41-2 brakes had adjusting cams at the bottom of the backing plate and used the shoes with the round hole. 46-48 only had the upper adjusters. You have several issues going on here. As said earlier on a under 2000 lb car those brakes work extremely well when properly set up.
12" when new. Can go to .060 or .090 over with discard at .090 or .120 depending on who you believe/trust. Shoes should be arced to fit drum, tough to find anyone that still does it though.
Those are just a few random cold welds. Those pieces will probably be very easy to remove, and then a flap disc on an angle grinder will make them fine to re-use in just a few minutes effort. You might find a local place that relines shoes for industrial stuff. My Dad ran an auto shop in the 50s. He relined using bulk lining on rolls, drilled the holes, etc. He also had very thin black colored flexible shim stock to go under the lining, to make up for oversize drums.
Check with wilson welding,they have a complete brake kit with backing plates.Its a bendix self energizing assy .I use them one the front of my 36 ford,39 axle.cost is worth it if you have to start from scratch.
The Jalopy Journal
