What to do with this broken 283 V8

With the exception of the 400, ALL Gen 1 SBC engines use a 5.7 inch long rod (C/C length), the 400 rod comes in at 5.565 inches C/C, and is large journal to boot (400 mains are larger than "large journal" however). Small journal 55-67, except for the 350, and even then, some say there were small journal 350's (there are probably Papa Snurf Ferries too). EVERYTHING small block went large journal in 68. Since there's a notch taken out at the bottom of the cylinder, I don't think "I" would use that block, just because you can get a replacement cheap. Yes, you can clean up the break, and the rings don't go that low, and the pistons have FULL skirts, not slipper style skirts. Since you have to find a rod, might as well step up to better rods, the 2nd design 327 small journal rod or aftermarket I-beams for pressed pins, like your rods/pistons already have. Pretty good area of scale rust in the one cylinder, and it may be pitted there, how are the rest? Those pistons could possibly be very early TRW , after they took over for Thompson (guess what the "T" in TRW stands for?), but I'm pretty sure the "T" on top stands for Thompson. They still used the same part numbers, even to this day, but now being called Federal Mogul. Here's an idea, since your block has sat for so long, it has't been eaten away inside the water jackets. If the block will go .125 over to standard 302 size, I have a new small journal, 301/302 rotating assembly with new pistons, rings, bearings, turned/drilled crank I'd let go for cheap, plus shipping. It was an assembly taken out of a rebuilt short block the guy made back into a 327 (it was a 327 small journal block). I have't been able to find a standard bore 327 block, and a well worn 283 that will still go .125 is iffy. Kind of sorry I bought it now. To bad you're so far away however. Thompson pistons morphed into Thompson-Ramo-Wooldrige (TRW), TRW split/sold out to Northrup Grumman and Speed Pro/Federal Mogul. Piston parts numbers have always remained the same though the companies acquisitions/splits/mergers. Your pistons are fine, but heavier than a more modern slipper style skirt piston that would have the exact same part number. That's why you want a better rod, slinging all that extra weight around on an unbalanced rotating assembly. Easy to see why one broke. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

By the time your done their would be much left of the broke engine. The strongest running small block I ever built had a 327 block bored .030 and 283 crank. Popup pistons and full floating piston pins. Still have the pistons. It dropped a valve at high RPM and lost a piston and cyl wall. bought another piston so I have a full set. maybe build another like it someday.

 

I don't agree that it will cost you as much to rebuild as to buy a crate motor. It is certainly the easy way out but I've never taken that route. If you need 2 rods I have 2 you can have just pay shipping or come to the Rhinebeck swap meet in May.

I also have 2 late model 350 motors that need rebuilding you can have one if you want to go the 350 route.

Pat

 

I know for me I can build an engine much cheaper than buy a new crate engine. I heard the same kind of thing from folks wh o state you can go out and eat as cheap as you can cook at home.

 

loving the discussion! thanks guys!
two things;
first, my uncle, Midnight Joe, as he was known was the type of mechanic that would have already had this motor running using.........well....maybe a part from this, a piece from that, a welded chunk of this, or some part that someone else declared no good and it would have run well AND beat a lot of guys on the track with bigger wallets. he is no longer with us, but working on this type of project, i can feel him looking over my shoulder and a the smell of his cigar.................
second; this motor is not for a customer, i don't have to worry about pulling it out and warranty it. i am doing this to just have an extra [traditional] motor around in case a project pops up that needs a mill. [ @Ryan ]
i see lots of good stuff in this engine and think if the one bore cleans up and there are no cracks into the water jacket it will be a fine motor for a hot rod that is run a few thousand miles a year.

 

I had 2 of those 283s in the shop that had been declared 'DOA' by the customers that 'gifted' them to me!
One had a cracked piston skirt, (diagnosed it in the car) the other had a pronounced rod knock.
(customer had it to 4 different shops: one said the automatic transmission was going out; another condemned the cam; the third said he had broken a lifter (?) and the engine had to come out. Fourth told him some wild story about a crankshaft main bearing about to let go, "when they do they come up right thru the floor!"
He came to my shop, I said "Con rod bearing, most likely spun on the crank..."
Low mile engine, but the guy opted for a crate engine. I installed it, and when I tore the 283 down I showed him the bearing, rod, and crank. (Crank kit was $149, plus one rod.)
The guy asked how I knew what the problem was. "Mileage," I told him.
"A whore can spot a venereal disease by a drip...hell, I was exposed to the sound!"

 

All this discussion makes me want to tear down the 283 I have stored under my work bench. Picked it up cheap to install in my 33 but it had issues so I had to opt for a 350. Would still like to get the 283 going and replace the 350. 283's and 327's are cool!

 

good idea, post some pictures if you do!

 

Yes I got to thinking about a old zombie 283 I have and went and got it today. Started a thread titled rusty crusty 283 build? The engine in this thread is much better than mine. I need a knock around engine for my mud bog jeep.

 

old wolf's thread; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rusty-crusty-283-build.1010335/#post-11408154

 

I have one too, as well as this stuff to go on it...


Its a ways down the list of priorities, but the game plan is to make it all look like a '57 270hp 283, make a set of headers that look like vintage hedmans, and a period solid cam (probably an Isky E-3) and stick it all in a full-fendered T on A rails with a 4.11 geared '57 chevy 10 bolt I snagged at Munroe for $75.

 

I'm tell'n Ryan you been hold'n out on him.

 

Ive got a couple sets of those stagger bolt corvette covers and a two four intake with the incorrect WCFB carbs also.

 

Hell I have built whole small block chevys for what a pair of real 270hp carbs cost nowadays! I am only using the float bowl from the low choke mount carb in front, then you dont have to trim off and fill the two choke mount ears that are on the high choke mount float bowl when you are building the front carb. makes it harder to spot...

 

i had scrounged up a couple of the early wcfb. one at hershey last year the other from a friend. i was keeping my eye out for an intake and one popped up on the bay in the next town, just last week.

 

^^Can I ask what you paid? pm if you want. WCFB cores have gone from a typical $25 to over $100 lately.

 

For my money, a 265 or early 283 with all the period corvette stuff on it has more "period cred" than another flathead with the typical re-pop edelbrock or offy stuff hung all over it. Its a HELL of a lot more rare thats for sure, I hardly EVER see them in hot rods at car shows. And I'd rather drive the 300-350hp free-revving 7000 rpm solid lifter sb too.

 

$55 for the frozen one at hershey, $60 for the "clean" core from my buddy. $150 for the intake, glass beaded, new studs but with a broken middle mounting hole.

 

SWEET! Thats about what I paid for mine ($175 for the intake) but that was a couple years ago.

 

I have assembled enough parts for 3, 3 inch stroke motors. In fact, I have so much of the stuff I've been giving some of it away (ya'll know who you are!).The WCFB carburetor costs have absolutely SKYROCKETED; I have 3 dual quad setups. One factory has the correct carbs, one factory cloned carbs, and one Weiand intake with AFB's. I wanted to build an "old school" motor, like the one I should have had in high school (66-69), and just kept collecting parts. I actually started out wanting a built 265, but I could't find a good 265 to work with; all of them were rusted up POS that guys apparently thought were made of platinum. My rotating assemblies are all completely forged 283's, except for one 301/302. I'm hopefully going for a 283 block today that has the same casting number for both 283 and 327 applications, and is supposed to have thicker cylinder walls. I really need a 4 inch bore for these standard bore 302 pistons, and have't been able to find a good, standard bore, small journal, 327 block. Then I see a couple/few of you HAMBERS working with stuff I would't look at even once, let alone twice; my hat's off to you (but I don't wear a hat). I want to see the progression of taking a rusted up, "field motor", and turning it into a running bullet. So, keep it up, keep posting, and I'll keep dreaming. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

the intake. i just need to weld the edge back on. a washer would probably work but i will weld it.

 

Nice score!^^

 

i took the rest of the pistons out and the cam. cylinders, except the chipped one look great and if it is not cracked it is a shame it was stored like it was. you can see the pitting in the one cylinder but i believe it is below the rings. the piston after the rod broke dropped below it's normal travel. somebody spent some money on this rebuild at one time.
does anyone know what the cam is? gm # 3732798.
lifters have no wear on them and popped out of their bores easily and all of the rings, except on two of the pistons are clean and move freely. all of the wrist pins are tight but with a little wd i was able to get a couple loose. would it be totally nuts to reuse the rings? i bet they don't have many miles on them. i am also going to plasti-gage all the bearings. they look good.

 

pics.

 

Show me a pic of a lifter side on. Is there a line around the circumference of the lifter about 1/8" up from the bottom?

 

Early 300hp, same as the #929. Give me a minute and i will round up specs.

 

#929 is 195/203@050, .390/.410 112 LSA, 90% sure the 798 is the same.

 

I scraped off as much crud as possible, sprayed it with engine degreaser, and rinsed it off. Then I went back in with compressed air and WD-40 for all the hard to reach places, and oil for the cam, lifter, and cylinder bores. It is ready for the machine shop next week. My son is bouncing off the walls to get this engine built, but he said he understands taking our time and being patient.

 

These factory intakes are known for burning through the heat riser crossover, and with the tin cover on, it's not always visible. I've seen one that had a hole I could start to put my hand in! The four twisted in rivets, that hold the tin cover in place, communicate with the intake runners, and frequently leak. I've removed my rivets, tapped the holes, and used small bolts with split locks, Loc tighted in. The aluminum is either very porous, or the heat riser valve must stick, thereby pushing all that hot exhaust over/through the heat riser crossover, and then burning the crossover out. That pressurizes the engine with exhaust gasses, or sucks valley oil into the intake runners, and can start an internal engine fire. And, just like yours, many of these factory dual quad intakes have broken bolt bosses. I like the "dog bone" figuration for the carb throats; mine have the 4 separate holes for each carb. Both my factory intakes are EARLY 56 style, they have even smaller runners than the later year 56; one of mine someone before me "port matched" the intake, and that pretty much ruined it for the restorers. I just bought a pair of reproduction air filters; they cost about 1/5 of originals, and are still expensive. I also just bought the final piece I've needed, the dual quad oil fill tube; they don't have a spot welded on carb return spring bracket on them, just a bare, plain tube. One of these days, I'm going to figure out how much $$$ I have invested in the one complete setup, one of these days......when my wife is't around.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery

 

GM actually issued a dealer service bulletin telling dealers to open the early 265 intakes to the "figure 8" septum, it was supposed to improve part throttle driveability. Its rare to find one that hasnt been opened up. And yes, the re-pop air cleaners are expensive. But you just GOTTA have them!