Projects What did I get in to

So after months of searching the fence rows and Craigslist for the best deal on an old car or truck for my good friend, the answer sat next to a barn. A '62 f-100 short wide. Small back glass, and it came factory with the earlier bed. For only paying 1,000 dollars for a running and driving classic, we were satisfied. Now as two broke teenagers, we made it a goal to do everything we do to this truck for little to no cost. We lowered it as low as possible without notching the frame or buying a drop axle. We picked up some cheap Mexican blankets at a swap meet, painted the floor black, and a few other things. The thing that bugs him the most now is the 3 on the tree with the wimpy 223 straight 6. Yeah we are dumb immature teenagers. But we like burnouts and loud cars. We love drag racing and especially classics, not those new mustangs, or as I call them, queerstangs. Anyways, this is where things get interesting. His dad has a 1985 econoline with what we think is a 351 Windsor in it. His dad gives him the van that's been sitting for a year and a half and we get it back home (miraculously). Wire cutters, reciprocating saw, and a small tool set and she's ready to pull. That's what is planned tomorrow. That's my story so now...

Questions. I need your guys' help:

Will the automatic transmission in this van work in the truck? It has wires running into it.

Do you have any advice at all on putting this modern engine in an old truck? What will work? What won't work? What certain things need to be done to make it work?

Do they make motor mounts? What about tranny mount?

How do you identify the engine to be 100% sure?


Thanks guys

 

what fun!

First thing is to have a plan. But if you don't know enough to have a plan, at least you'll learn a lot!

If you can take some closer pictures of the engine, from a few different angles, we might be able to identify it. The intake manifold on the 351W is unique among Ford engines. It has the thermostat housing poking out the front, and it's at least 10" wide at the widest part.

The thing about wire cutters and sawzall makes me wonder if you are destroying any parts you may need later...

the wires on the transmission--if they're only a few wires near the shifter, then you should be ok. Don't cut wires just because you dont know what they do. Unplug them.

 

Wishing you the best on this project, you'll learn a lot, now it begins.

 

The seat cover looks good.......so thats something

 

85 should be a C4 or AOD I'm thinking, possibly a C6, so there shouldn't be any computer controlling the transmission. It could be a throttle body injection engine though, I think they started around 85. Easy enough to change if it is, just get a intake and carb to fit. It's possible that the motor mounts will bolt right up, but they may need a little cutting on the slot or the stands moved, I can't remember right now. I put a 351 Cleveland in a 72 F100 years ago, all I had to do was slot the 6cyl frame stands and then it bolted right in. Take lots of pics before you go to hacking, there may be some stock parts that will make the swap easier.

 

Hooray for some young guns with ambition!! Hope it all works out. BTW: I haven't followed up on the burnout/breakage on the '62...how'd that turn out? Tim

 

Lots of great hot rodders in southern Missouri especially in Springfield. Don't be afraid to ask for help.

 

What jim said.

As for motor mounts hit up transdapt or advance adapters. Do you google? they both should have a web site, I like transdapt best. Or you could try using the mounts that you already have too. I am going to guess that the stock exhaust will probably clear everything, but if it won't or you just want a set of headers transdapt will have a part number for headers for the truck, find it and then find headmon that is what they use.

Anyway like I said in the beginning what jim said.

 

'85 was the last year for carbureted motors at Ford (and that's what it looks like) so the trans should be a C6 seeing how it's a truck/van application. Wires going to the trans should be your neutral safety switch and back-up lights (do hook up the neutral switch at least). You can tell the 302 and 351W apart by their size; the 302 is about 22" across at the exhaust ports, the 351 is two inches wider.

 

If the water pump ports goes to the very top of the deck it's a 302...if there is a (roughly) 1" gap between the water pump ports and deck it's a 351

 

I know it is carbureted for sure. We will try to use the original mounts for the need to save money, but if some need purchased, then we will go for it. Thanks guys!! I'll post more pictures later!!

 

Just the spider gear!! Swapped the third member out and she drives fine now!

 

That's how you learn is to get your hands dirty and ask questions . Wishing you guys all the best . Remember to make it a safe driver .

 

Label all the wires and tubes/hoses and take pics before disconnect.

 

Sounds like fun. Absolutely do not get rid of the Econoline donor until your swap is complete. No matter how much stuff you take off that you think you might need, there will be more left on the van that you didn't pull. You'll be amazed by how many trips you make back to the Econoline for clips and connectors and brackets and pieces of the wiring harness that you cut off. Hang on to the donor until the truck project is done and you're certain the truck can't possibly use anything else from it.

By the time you're done, you'll have the brakes and power steering and probably part or all of the rear end under there. I have a 70 F100 short stepside that is a cool old truck, but it really wasn't a lot of fun to drive until I added power steering and modern brakes.

 

Not to be a wet blanket, but I remember my dad walking past me when I was in the middle of a mess saying (as he continued to walk away) "fail to plan, plan to fail". A little bit of pre-project thought can go a long way. Hope it makes a great truck.

 

Thanks guys. Also, would you consider it safe to lift the engine and tranny by the four corner exhaust manifold bolts? I can lift it by all 4 corners at once with the hoist I'm using

 

What size hoist are you using?

 

1-1/2 ton

 

Probably be fine. On a late model engine I prefer to use bolts in the fronts and backs of the heads if I can ir intake bolts but you should be fine with the manifold bolts. maybe find some longer bolts to be sure you got plenty of thread in there.

 

Except for the 221, 260, 289, and 302 has the thermo out the front too
The 351W manifold is closer to 11" wide and the 289/302 is just over 9" (just measured them)
Just a little clarification, hope it helps

 

Unfortunately the steering box from a van won't work on these old trucks, in fact the straight axle trucks are a pain in the ass to do a PS conversion on - 79-84 Toyota 4X4 box is the most popular swap. The van brakes won't work on the axle either

 

How'd we do it? Don't even ask! Lol

 

Research and ask questions. Otherwise, have fun and take pictures of stuff you tear apart. Those pics will come in handy, when you try to put stuff back together.

 

Yep, 351W/C6.....

 

Any words of thought? What do you think the HP put out will be once put in the truck? Is this a good tranny?

 

You are to early in the build too worry about the output unless you pan on tearing the engine down.

 

I am owner of the 62 f-100 what would u guys do about all the vacuum hoses/ wires and censors how do I no what ones to keep and cut

 

Well, whatever is going to the transmission from the engine you need to keep. On the motor itself, all you really 'need' is the oil pressure and temp senders and one vacuum hose from the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Everything else is emissions related and can go away, but some retuning will probably be needed. By '85, the 351w had been detuned pretty thoroughly (they used the same heads as the 302) so don't expect a powerhouse but it should make decent torque. If you're after power, better heads, cam, and carb/intake will wake it right up.

 

Vacuum hose to the tranny, one vacuum hose to distributor advance, plug the rest off. Hope you saved the ignition box and harness going from the engine to it, you'll need that, and have to hook up the box to your wiring. Also need hot cable going to starter from solenoid on fender. Oil pressure and water temp senders can be replaced with aftermarket gauges, electric or mechanical.