Ahwile ago there was a discussion about this topic but I can't seem to find it. What body filler does everyone recommend? Bear in mind that I am a complete novice at bodywork- Thanks
Go to the nearest professional auto paint distributor-store and get whatever brand they carry that is the easy-sanding, doesn't clog sandpaper type. Let your wallet judge what $quality$ you need. Most of them are at least similar, and many come out of the same mixing vat and just get different labels. It's basically polyester resin and clay although some have chopped fiberglass and some have "micro balloons" instead of the clay for lightness. I;m undecided about that becauseI think it's like putting an airbubble behind the paint to expand in the sunlight. A lot of people call it all "bondo" but few pros actually recommend actually using Bondo brand. But, I used it (Bondo) on my truck because it's presence in the field, and on the shelves at Pep Boys, is "traditional" and it hasn't given me any noticable problems and it was painted over ten years ago in Acrylic Lacquer. PS Evercoat is what's on my shelf now, too
I, too, am a novice, been doing filler work for almost year on my truck with a brand called Z-Grip which works out better for me than the Bondo brand itself. They have different levels of 'weight' (light weight, etc.) depending on the age of your body metal, and the depth of work you need to cover. The other thing, too, is sealants. Z-Grip comes with blue sealant, but I pay extra for red sealant, as it works much better. It's easier to get a better mix - to avoid airholes - with the red sealant, I think. Good luck, Dan!
You could get Bondo brand at the chain auto parts stores, even in some hardware stores like Ace, but your chances of getting good behind-the-counter guidance and advice are greater if you got to a auto body/paint store. It might cost a tad more than Napa or Car Quest, but you could profit in advice. That's been my experience, at least. What's your ride?
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/list_products_orderform_format.cfm?cat=33&group=Yes That other link kinda sucked. This one may be better. FONZI
I have been sanding plastic filler for a living for more than 30 years. I have found 3m GOLD to be one of the best for adhesion, sanding, shrinkage and color holdout. Whatever brand you end up with I think its wise to pay the extra 2 or 3 dollars more (per gallon)for the best that the company makes. I feel the time involved to do the work and the expected results are well worth the couple extra bucks ($5-$10 on the bigger jobs) to have the best product you can buy. Just my 2 cents worth Steve
how is the 3M bondo.our bumper to bumper carries all 3M body stuff.i thought the 3m sandpaper lasts preety good.well alot longer than the junk i was using before,and it actually comes off the pad. eric
Dynatron Ultimate , or Marson Platinum, these two are premium fillers that are made in house here at the BONDO Corp.,....Bondo is a corporation located here in Atlanta Georgia, we manufacture body fillers , automotive primers and clearcoats and many specialty products as well.We distribute under names like DYNATRON , MARSON , MARHYDE , and 3M FILLERS as well as the BONDO name.The BONDO name is aimed at the cosumers and the others are aimed at the professionals. Of course this is just my opinion and it may be biased due to the fact that I work for the Bondo Corp. and I am the Technical Administrator for the company.
"Paid for by Friends of Rage Gold"... Sorry Don, couldn't help it. Too much work at the TV station for me. I'm trying to remember if Evercoat is the brand that has Z-Grip, or if Z-Grip is itself a brand. Gonna skip out to the garage...
Z-grip is Evercoat........Try Ultragrip. Hey Don try Platinum if you like Rage gold then I know that you will like the Marson Platinum, sands and featheredges alot better than the Evercoat product does and has better adhesion as well it can also be applied over a sanded painted surface as well!
If it is something you want to keep for a long time use a good expensive filler. I like to use Glasurit or Standox. It works very very good. I've had a panel that I've completely folded over and it didn't crack the filler. Make sure that the area is clean and dry also remember that filler builds hear and when you put it on a cold panel it condesates and trap moisture. Thats your worst enemy is rust underneath. Spend the money and use good materials if you want a really nice paint job. Aaron
I see guys putting filler over paint and the mfg's say it's OK but I still don't do it. If you do, the adhesion is only as good as that of the existing paint to the metal. I flamed a car one timme over the existing paint job. When I pulled the tape a bunch of the existing paint lifted right to the primer. You never know the quality of work that the last guy did.
Dan, since you say you are a "complete novice" I thought I would throw out these tips for you which may seem too basic, but I've often seen begginers make these mistakes. Make sure to get the hardner to filler proportions right and to mix it thoroughly. If you are a little light on the hardner, it may never fully cure even if it seems like it has, and if you have a dark streak of hardner in your work, it will cause problems with bleaching or bubbling your paint later on. Also if you put too much hardner, it will make the filler more brittle and prone to cracking. Don't mix too much at once - you'll just waste it. Also, it is easiet to break the filler off the plastic spreaders right after it kicks instead of a day later. Or, you can keep the used spreaders in a can of laquer thinner and they'll come nice n clean. And finally, don't rely too much on mechanical sanders. The only way to really get it straight is with the longboard and a lot of patience. Have fun. By the way, I like Evercoat Z-grip - sands nice.
Get one of those long boards like in the DRD57 pic, among other sanding blocks. Sand the surface in long diagonal sweeping "Xs" if that makes sense. cross hatch the sanding across the contours and use the palm of your hand run across the surface to check for highs and lows. Sand the oil from your hands off the surface before painting, or better yet, wear gloves so you don't containate the surface before painting. I sweat a lot so I wear a bandana sweat band. If you drip sweat on the car the salts in sweat will contaminate and rust the metal. Wear a "real:mask that fits and filters out the dust. Those paper masks with only one rubberband are only good for keeping your edger from pitching dog doo in your mouth while gardening.
I vote for Z-grip too. While you're at the autobody supply store, pick up a good 2-part spot filler as well (I use Icing). You'll never ever use Nitro-stan red putty again. Cheers, Blair
Been there done that and have the headache to prove it, I still always reccomend to remove the paint to bare metal.But seriously you should try some our products after all we are the original .........Bondo
Real bodymen use no filler, dead bodymen use lead. I fall somewhere in between altho I still do a small amount of lead work. Got turned on to Marston Platinum early this year after being strictly a Rage Gold user. Im not selling the shit so I can, without bias, say Platinum really rocks. Ive never used anything that feathers so precise. You all know Im the HAMB Zero Rust whore so here is a hint. ZR is chemically compatible with body fillers using clay so if you go over a rusty surface with ZR and then skim the goo you have the best of combinations. No rust coming back thru the goo and no moisture getting thru the ZR. Ive used them over some deeply pitted metal that was only dust blasted to get off the worst while rust remained in the pits; it was too risky to blast to white metal.
286merc - do I understand correctly that filler can be used over zerorust? What is the address of that bodywork discussion board you mentioned earlier in another post - I can't find it?? Thanks-
Dan, correct. It is not something ZR mentions since the product is primarily industrial; they have no idea about the consumer market and new uses keep popping up. I decided to try it last summer when a customer who is a Chemistry Professor read the fine print on the can. Damn if it doesnt work pisser. You should use 2 very thin coats of ZR and wait until it has cured. By then it is very hard and wont be sanded off when sanding the mud. That forum is www.autobodystore.com. Run by Len Stuart who is one of my ZR customers.
I have used every single new product I ever heard of along the course of 30 plus years slinging mud and I am still now using the first one I used BONDO- plain and simple it will out last any thing I have ever used.Ive got a mud question- for the oltimers- once upon a time I used a couple of fillers that were called "white diamond and also Black diamond- who made them? also isnt Evercoat also a bondo trademark?
What is this Zerorust stuff? how is it applied? Its a real paint so you can brush or spray. Go to www.zerorust.com for lots of details.
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