What Aftermarket Model A frame do I use??

Before I get started with my question, I appologize, I imagine this question has been asked many times on the board, but I don't have the time to search through the archive to find an answer.

My question is.....What is the best aftermarket chassis for a Model A? I want to install a 302 and a 4 speed in my 30 Roadster. I am going to use an 8" rear end and a dropped straight axle in front. Friends of mine have told me to use an aftermarket frame that is already built because they are cheaper than hiring someone to build one. I have been looking at Speedway, TCI and other companies across the internet. Which one is the best?? Those pretty pictures in catalogs and internet sites look great, but does anyone have some good experience or bad with the companies that provide frames?? I just need a frame with all of the brackets installed, I already have all of the drive train and suspension parts. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you - Brian

 

I really like T.C.I. stuff.

 

My 32 has a TCI. No problems there.

 

What is your budget and fabrication skill level? The speedway price is hard to beat but that is set up for a small block chevy with a auto. I have used a speedway frame on a 32 with 0 issues.

 

Aftermarket? Whats the matter with the one henry put under your model 'a'?

 

I would have to do so much strengthening and fabrication work for the V-8, I just assumed from a cost analysis point of view it would be cheaper for me to buy a frame already done, rather than hire out to someone else to do the work. I haven't priced a fabricator to do the work, but just guessing shop time would be somewhere around $40-$60 per hour and it seems that the costs would rack up quickly at that rate. It seems that a new frame would be cleaner and stronger in the end, just some thoughts I had.

Here are some websites I have found.

http://www.hotrodit.com/frame.html

http://brookvilleroadster.com/modela/modela-frames.htm

http://www.streetrodgarage.com/browseproducts/Model-A-Frame-1928-1931.html

http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/product.cfm?ProdCat=5

http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/2831F.htm

http://www.lastrefugehotrod.com/frames.html

http://www.classicstreetrodmfg.com/model_a.html
- I saw these guys at Portland Swap Meet. Their product looked very nice in person.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Model-A-Frame-Assembly,5533.html

 

Stay away from Last Refuge!

 

TCI - You won't be sorry

 

Is Bob Bleed still making his?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92175&highlight=aceholes

 

I'll throw out http://www.bolingbrothers.com got a frame from Derek it's a well built and he will set it up for whatever engine/transmission you plan to use

 

It isn't any cheaper to buy an aftermarket frame. All you really need to do is box the original and with a small block unless you buiolt the devil out of it and run monster meats on the back you can get away with partially boxing it. Boxing plates are cheap. You can't beat the look of an original frame.

Otherwise if you contact him and he is still on track vaphead here on the HAMB builds one helluva nice chassis. They are all custom built or built to order I guess and you can have him throw SBF mounts in there if that is what you want.

 

I'm having the same sticker shock I was having the other day looking a fiberglass bodies......I'll keep my mouth shut.

 

TCI They were the first to build an aftermarket/ repro A frame. They build some stout stuff.

Frank

 

My only problem is this with aftermarket frames ,Is the 7 degree caster at kingpin ,All the frames the front crossmember's are welded in.The car should be at ride height and crossmember should be welded in last .Thats the way I was taught .Also on a model A its cheaper to build your own ,,,,,

 

There is little doubt from any of us that have worked an old chassis into shape that a store-bought is less expensive.

 

There is good and not so good both ways.
The good of having a new frame built is that it is all new and set up the way you want it and it should be a done deal. The bad is that some states tend to give you a real hassle when it comes to title and registration time.
The good of having the original frame is that if you have the original title they should match and end of hassles there. Plus there is that cadre of guys who just flat like running the orginal frame even when they do a lot of mods on it. The bad is that the original frame may be cracked, damaged or have had some real suspect mods in the past that cause it to be more like scrap iron than a usable frame.

Goodguys is coming up in Puyallup the third weekend in July. Usually vendors show up there packing some fresh frames ready to go and often have show sale prices and if you can wait until Sunday and they haven't sold the display frame they sometimes talk real deals. That is builders who the other guys have already mentioned earlier in the thread and not Greazy Willy who works out of the tin shed at his grandpa's bean patch. Pack along a frame's worth of buying power and make a trip up and be ready to haul a frame back if things go right. The best thing there is you can go back and forth between vendors and frames and compare for yourself and not have to go by someone else's opinion.

 

You make a great point! Thank you! Puyallup is only three hours away, so I should go check it out. I would rather touch one and see one in person before making my decision on catalog or internet pictures.

There are great opinons about building your own frame, but I do not have a welder, the knowledge or the thousands of hours of quality experience that many others have; so buying a frame or having someone build one is my only option. If I were to have someone build a frame, what has others paid for? How many hours would a fabricator have to spend?

 

I'd box a stock frame for around 400 dollars depending on how clean it is when you brought it to me.

 

It's funny, you don't have time (your words) to search the HAMB for info but you found the time to check all these other vendors out?

Anyhow, keep in mind whatever aftermarket frame you get is going to need a fairly significant amount of work and fabrication to mount your body and all the peripherals to. Just a heads up to keep that in mind when you plan your budget.

 

I like brookville roadster's frames.

 

Shows are the way to go .Brookville and honest charlie have demo's at shows and there not that pricey .Many companies will offer roller packages .The only reason I said build one is ,a model A frame is just square tubing each side and out of a stock frame you need just the crossmembers ,

 

I've got two A's on Brookville Roadster frames.

 

I did a lot of research on the same subject about 7 years ago and came to the conclusion that the best one out there was Cornhuskers Rod and Custom in Nebraska. Do some checking and you'll find they have a great reputation for their frames. I gave them all the specs for my eng/trans (302/C4) set up and when I put it all together every thing was perfect. It's the best out there. If I'm not mistaken he's a HAMBer, but can't remember his user name. Check it out.

http://cornhuskerrodandcustom.net/Pages/Chassis/ModelAChassis.aspx

 

His name here on the HAMB is Kylon32

Go here

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/member.php?u=11470

He does build a KILLER frame

 

Derek makes nice stuff,check out his frames.

 

ya really a search on model A frames only brings up 491 threads, get to reading....

 

Whatever frame you use- be sure to install a proper crossmember setup to resist the
twist inherent in a ladder style frame especially with a stick shift. I had a total performance frame that would twist over an inch just depresing the stock chevy
clutch setup. Was ok with an auto.

 

Give Pete and Jakes a call.
I have one of their frames and they are great to deal with if you have any issues while building your car.
Very knowledgeable and happy to help in any way.

 

The old frame will take a bunch of work to make it usable for todays speeds and highways. It's just not worth it. I have not used Speedways but I am sure, if you cxan get it with the Ford mounts, would be fine. At my old company, (Butch's Rod Shop), we used many from TCI and many from Brookville Roadster and had NO ISSUES with either on. This includes Model A's, 32's & 34's. Both build a nice chassis or frame, whichever way you go. Hope I have helped!

 

I too would box and modify a stock frame. That being said, are you going fenders or fenderless. TCI would certainly be a good choice if you are running fenders. But, I believe they are a 4 bar rear which just does not look right on a fenderless car. On a fenderless car I would prefer a frame with at least a four inch kick in the rear with a ladder bar connection.ie Pete and Jakes or similar. In the front a 4" dropped axle with a flattened front crossmember and frame notched for spring clearance works good. Radius rods or split bones might be preferrable to my 4 bar front but I used what I had

Just my two cents.

Check out the pics in my album.