Went to the Engine Rebuilder’s Today

Sold this car, thread no longer relevant.

 

Looks nice! I love old engines.

 

Looking at both your threads, and your project seems to be coming along very nicely.

Your head looks pretty much like the Edmunds and Fentons of the period with not much relief over the piston. When you assemble especially since you are using a non stock grind on the cam, maks sure you check valve clearence as with that much meat off the head and deck you may be gettig near the interference zone. Also I have read in a couple places that you should bull nose the casting where the valve pocket meets the area over the piston. Just enough to smooth over any sharp edge.

You also mentioned a concern about using the later pistons resulting in a .125 over bore. Shouldn't be a concern as the only difference in the earlier and later block designs was the addition of the full cylinder cooling jacket on the drivers side. the internal casting were not changed when this chage was made in 35.

Looking at your engine pics I can't determine if you have a water distribution tube in place. this is a tapered steel or brass tapered tube that slided into the coolant chamber on the valve side of the upper block. These were features of later engines (not sure if your was supposed to have one) but their design is to direct coolant up toward the valve seats area. If there is a tube, make sure it is clear of rust and crud.
As it is important for valve and seat life, and for proper cooling in general.

You might want to check out this site for some good general information

http://www.ply33.com/

 

I stand corrected, the dist tube was introduced in 35 with the updated casting, which was also marginally wider. the head gasket is also unique to the pre 35 engines.

You might want to give the forum on the P15-D24 site a visit, granted it not speciffic to your vintage but all flathead 6 ethusiasts are welcomed. Lots of good info there aslo. Keep plugging.