I done a couple searches and couldn't find a video or how to press apart the flathead water pumps for rebuild. Could someone tag me or post information on how to please. I'm thinking about trying it.
The pumps available from suppliers are far more superior with update seals and bearings. I would not suggest rebuilding s stock one. But here you go. Stock rebuild. http://myplace.frontier.com/~wgmumaw/Water Pump Rebuild/Rebuild 37-48 water pumps.htm
This is for 38-48 pumps: I did it 30 years ago with sockets and hunks of large pipe, a big vise, and some shaft slightly smaller than the pump shaft. Push the old shaft through the pulley from the frontside, supporting the housing of the pump on its flat surface, up kinda close around the impeller. If you put any pressure or clamps on the rim of the pulley it will break. Just let the shaft and impeller fall out of the pump on the floor, they are both replaced with new parts from the kit. Push the bushing from the outside toward the back with a shaft or socket that has an OD just slightly smaller than the bushing. Thoroughly clean the housing, including oil weep hole. Then push the new bushing into the housing from front to back. Check to see if the new shaft fits tight into the bushing. If too tight you will need to have it reamed at a machine shop. I've got lucky and didn't. Assemble with plenty of oil, adding the washers as instructed, and press the pulley onto the shaft by pushing on the boss, not the outer rim. Push til the shaft is flush in the pulley, not til the pulley bottoms onto the housing.
Read through all these links and you will be a happy camper. https://www.google.com/search?q=for...hUKEwjU1eu9saDoAhUBa60KHTEuC48Q1QIoAnoECAsQAw I had George "Skip" Haney in FL rebuild mine 2 years ago and they are well worth the money. He installs a curved impeller to improve water flow. Also supplies gaskets. Well worth the $200. Read all this. He's included. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-water-pump-questions-speedway.133826/
hmmm...strange. It's an old web page, but it's there. I took the naughty liberty of copying and pasting the text and uploading the images here, so you can see what's going on. If the owner of the web page has a problem with this, let me know and I'll delete i. Rebuilding 1937 to 1948 Ford V8 water pumps There are a number of options available for flathead owners when it comes to waterpumps; new pumps are available from various suppliers, as well as rebuilts. Also "high flow" and ball bearing conversions from a couple of different vendors. And there are new pumps with ball bearings, and even aluminum pumps from Australia. But some of us still are rebuilding their own pumps usings kits available from the flathead parts suppliers. This web article is my experience in rebuilding my pumps. Exploded view of water pumps; passenger and truck Rebuild kit Disassembly The pulley and impeller are a press fit to the shaft and must be pressed off. The pulley is removed first by supporting the pump housing with clearance below for the impeller and pressing on the shaft at the pulley end. A hydaulic press is best for this but it can be done with a heavy hammer and a drift pin. After the pump is apart the seal surface needs to be inspected for pitting. The seal surface can be restored by making a tool using the old shaft and a thick washer attached to it with sandpaper or emery cloth glued to it. The washer could be a shaft collar or a pressed on part. The old impeller might be used by cutting off the tabs used to hold the carbon seal and using the flat surface that the rubber seal fits against. I found that if I glued a coarse piece of sand paper on first it would hold the finer pieces on by friction. The final finishing should be done with 320 or 400 grit. Also check the housing for any warping on the surface that mates with the engine block. Weep hole on outside of pump Seal surface. Note the three holes around the inner circumference of the surface. These connect to the weep hole on the outside of the pump. Seal surface dressing tool Assembly After the seal surface has been restored the old bushing is removed by pressing (or driving) it out. Then the pump body needs to be thoroughly cleaned. The cavity that holds oil that is fed in from the engine and the water passages are probably encrusted with caked oil and rust and some scrapers made from bent heavy wire or similar will help to dislodge it. Once the body is clean the new bushing can be pressed in. Oil feed to bushing cavity Pressing the new bushing in. Assembly Now the bushing must be reamed to size. When the bushing is manufactured the outside diameter is made for a press fit into its nominal O.D. size which is 11/16" or .6875". The bushings in my kit measured .690" on their O.D. and .501" on the inside diameter. When the bushing is pressed into the housing the I.D. closed up to about.499 which is too tight for the shafts which measured about .4995" give or take a couple of tenths (.4993 to.4997). I reamed them with a 1/2 inch reamer that cuts a hole slightly larger than .500, more like .5002 or .5003. This gave me a nice free fit with aproximately .001" clearance. Be sure you use a reamer that is nice and sharp; a dull reamer will "smear" the I.D. of the sintered bushing and close up the tiny gaps which will prevent the oil from flowing out of the porous walls to lubricate the shaft. Now the pulley is pressed onto the new shaft and the thrust washer is installed on the shaft with a little grease. The shaft is oiled and slid into the bushing. The carbon seal, and the rubber bellows are placed on the shaft at the back of the pump and then the impeller is pressed on. Care must be taken here to line up the tabs on the carbon seal to the fingers on the impeller. After the impeller is started on the shaft you can line them up and push the housing against the seal and impeller to keep everything in place while the impeller is pushed the rest of the way on to the shaft. Use a washer about the size of the hub on the impeller so the force is on the hub and not on the outer rim of the impeller to ensure that the cast impeller will not be broken as its being pressed onto the shaft. There should be about 1/16" inch of spring travel left after the impeller is pressed on. Check this free play while pressing the impeller on so you don't go too far and have to start over. Impeller with seal and bellows Pully on shaft with thrust washer Impeller installed Seal differences If you look at the exploded parts drawing above it shows two versions of seals. The version on the top looks like what I received and probably the only one available now. One of my old pumps had the other version in it so I cleaned it up and took these photos. The major difference appears to be that on the impeller end it seals to the shaft where the newer versions seal to the surface of the impeller. The impeller used on this other version also has holes around the hub. The newer replacement impellers are solid. I can't think of any reason for the holes. The metal parts on the older seal were all brass, and the spring was non-magnetic, maybe silicon bronze. The spring in the new seal was magnetic, hopefully the plating on it will retard the rust formation. The carbon seal looked the same on both versions but on the old version was held to the impeller with a retaining ring. An older seal design as shown in exploded drawing above Seal parts on shaft Seal assembled Back of impeller Some options When shopping for kits it looked to me that all the vendors are selling the same parts; at least it appears that way from the ones who have pictures to view. And one vendor I found (Mac's) offers some of the kit parts ala cart. So if you have impellers that are good you can buy the seal # 68-8524 and the bushings # 78-8520 and supply your own shafts. There are suppliers of precision shafting (W.M. Berg and Stock Drive Products are among these). They have cold rolled steel shafting with OD's of .4995 and .4997 and tolerances of +.0000 -.0004 or -.0005. These would probably work out well with the .500 reamers which seem to cut a little oversize. .500 drill rod may be easier to find but the tolerance is usually + or - .001 so you may have to match up a reamer to fit the particular stock. There is stainless steel shafting available too with even closer tolerances but the makers of the sintered or "Oilite" bushings say you must order bushings with special lubricants in them to avoid seizures when using stainless or hard chromed shafts.
Thanks for repairing my link Squirrel. It was a strange link. I was able to access it but hadn’t been back on line to see if others were having issues.
And I just noticed the backside of the two I'm using is different. Is this a issue or should I dig through the pile and try to find a exact match?
Somebody must have added a heater hose at that plug. If you have another donor without it I’d probably use the other. I wouldn’t worry about the backside being slightly different.
I found a driver side one with ford on it. Would any of ya'll have a passenger side one you wanted to get ride of?
There's quite a few of those style water pumps on Ebay. Might be cheaper in the long run to buy a new pair of pumps. Take a look. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...nkw=1940+ford+flathead+water+pump&_sacat=6000
Rebuild Kits are 30.00 each and ten minutes labor you have new pumps and I learned something new so I like the idea of doing it myself. But thank you for letting me know about all them on Ebay.
I've got plenty of these pumps around and can't remember seeing any with the Ford cast in them. I bet a lot of the Ford pumps don't have the name on them. Or maybe they were supplied by an outside vendor?
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