I am in the process of getting my 34 ready to paint and just seen a clip on water based paint. Has any one used it? I know the clip I seen was trying to sale their product so any info good or bad.
takes a while to get used to. whole different spraying technique. it has to be forced air dried to get the moisture out of the paint. kind of a pain in the ass if your doing it manually. newer spray booths are equipped with the air dryers built in. it will be much less time consuming if you use basecoat/clearcoat.hope this helps.
It's badass paint! It doesn't have to be forced air to dry! They only do that to speed up flash time!
What brand of paint are you looking at? Ive used 3 different brands of water borne paint, Glasurit, Standox, and DuPont and the technique used to spray the Standox and the Glasurit is TOTALLY different. After you get used to it it's no different than using solvent based paint, you just have to make sure the base is dry before the clears goes on. I used Standox Standoblue on my car.
only been using water for about a year. we use ppg, and the instructor used a manual air drier to take out the moister. seems very time consuming. newer spray booth have the driers built in. it seems like it would take forever for it to dry without some kind of assistance. do you just let it air dry with the heat from the booth? other than the drying issue i have learned to really like it. i have a good handle on it, but could always learn something new.
Ford Chev and Dodge have been Forced to use it for 10 or 12 years, They seem to be having good results, color and shine are good +. Most body shops have switched over. It takes some getting used to but it adheres and lasts as good as the old stuff. Not only that but you might be surprised to find out who and how many show cars are painted with water... ...nothing to be scared of anymore as long as your body shop is/has switched over and re-adjusted to the new techniques.... .
I used Sikkens Autowave on a car...The paint is tough as nails when dry, flows well and smooth finish. Dry time varies I found unless possibly you are using the forced air dryers. Looked great with the clear applied. Could take as long as 45 minutes before applying a recoat of the paint in my neck of the weeds. I see Napa has the forced air dryers which looks like a stand holding two hair blowers for $400...I am sure someone using this type of paint have some bette methods but dry time is the most critical
My PPG rep recommended forced air dry or overnight air dry, but this was quite a while back. I'm still stuck in the solvent based apps. I suppose one of these days...
What is the technique to spraying this? What do you do that's different from traditional? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Am I correct in understanding that still only the basecoat is water based. Whereas the clearcoat is still solvent based?? or has the clear coat gone to water base as well?
At this point yes only the base is required to be water bourne in Canada and in fact a lot of paint companies are developing new compliant solvent base coats as well. As to the point of drying a great deal of the time required and how much faster it will dry with forced air flow over it is going to be dependant on the humidity and temperayture you are spraying in. The higher the humidity the slower it will dry and the more you will need to force air dry as the water vapour will be slower to absorb into already saturated air. In dryer climates it will dry much faster even with out the airflow due to the surrounding air having a greater ability to absorb the water vapours. Heat obviously increases drying time and cold slows it as well.
I know you still need a respirator, but is the smell any less with water based paint. I'm thinking of spraying in backyard shop without neighbor complaints.
Gentlemen, please forgive my ignorance. Every time I have heard mention of water borne automotive paint in the past I have completely ignored it. It just seemed to be counter intuitive to spray something that contains water onto sheetmetal and I didn't want any part of it, but I guess it's time I learned something about it. From the posts in this thread it seems like there are folks getting good results out of it and if certain manufacturers have been using it for years then it must also be durable. Where is a good place to learn about the basics of water borne paint? Can it be sprayed with a regular gun? It seems like you should be able to. Does it use a hardener? It's time for me to learn more, I guess. I'm having scary visions of shooting latex on my car. I need to get edumacated and quit burying my head in the sand. Type real slow so I can understand.
We haven't sprayed it yet but it will be the law in MD by next summer, many other states are switching or already have. High humidity here, which can be a killer. I was talking to my rep last week and he mentioned a shop doing an all-over with it. Guy sprayed the base at 10am and it wasn't dry enough to clear until 3pm. One thing to be real careful with, and I've seen very little press on it: the stuff is dangerous to breath, probably moreso than solvent. It is very readily absorbed into your body, being water based, and still has potent chemicals in it. Your eyes absolutely must be covered when spraying it, says my rep. Advantages: great coverage and color match. Personally, if I didn't have to spray water, I wouldn't. Just my opinion.
You can still buy good solvent based paint in Canada, it is sold as Industrial Paint. A good single stage polyurethane is Glasurit 22. There are other brands available.
As an individual user yes as a body shop legally you cannot. Industrial manufacturers are not bound to the same VOC laws that the automotive industry is in Canada so they can still buy solvent based paints.
Any automotive paint store that deals with industrial accounts usually still stock solvent based paints regardless of the manufacturer, whether or not they will sell to the public can be a crap shoot. Industrial suppliers should have them as well but again they may not sell to joe public off the street.
Was the complete car shoot with Auto Air Colors or just the flames? I want to try the Auto Air paint but I would be using a turbine 3 state system in order to keep the over spray to a minimum. The turbine systems heat the air going to the gun. I could never figure out if Auto Air or their other brand of paint called Wicked could be used for the complete car of not. How did you dry the paint before clearing it? Thanks Jimbo
I'm painting my truck with auto air colors.....in my garage. I have no forced air dryers, per the destructions it's merely to speed up the flash times. I have not had any problems, get done painting and walk away for 24 or so hours then clear. I've had no problems. Sprays totally different tho as others have said. You lay it on thin and....well for lack of a better term dry.... Good stuff if you ask me, I love it!
the entire car. when you're doing a complete, its best to do it in a warm spraying environment. by the time you get to the opposite end of where you started its almost dry... but just to make sure, i used a couple of hair dryers. it takes moving air to evaporate the water, not just heat. i've used AAC exclusively since 2006. if you can follow directions it is fool proof. there are no 'windows' to worry about, no mixing, solvent or compatibility issues. aside all that it is super economical. a little goes a long way.
To add to alterpilot's comment....not just warm but in Florida we have humidity.....lots of it. When I'm spraying (and I have my bootleg paint booth set up) I park a big ol dehumidifier in there and make it as dry in the booth as I can.....
Salty: Thanks for the tips. I was going to wait another month or two so that the humidity drops and the day's are in the 70's somewhere before painting my truck. I have a friend who uses a Turbine 3 state system and he swears it is very easy to use and the over spray is kept to a minimum. He also told me to wear a paint outfit and a good respirator. Thanks Jim
salty, yep. being from los angeles we dont deal with florida style humidity so i take it for granted. but you're right, it's important to consider.
alteredpilot: I have a few other questions since you are using the Auto Air Colors. I want to use the metallic russett color and I was wondering are you using the waterborne line of paint and also what primer are you using and is it also a Auto Air product. What clear are you using and how many coats are you applying? Thanks Jim
i'm using regular auto air colors (water BASED). i've yet to shoot auto-borne (water BORNE) which is said to laydown a little smoother without the perceived 'texture' that you tend to get with regular AAC. i use regular automotive primer. 5-star or PCL. use whatever you like. i use AAC sealer over the primer as a ground coat. i use Virtus High Solids clear system. usually 4 coats for a single color job (2 coats, wetsand, 2 more coats, cut and buff)
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