Technical Venting backing plates

I found a set of backing plates this afternoon, the Ford 40-48 style. Traded a guy a torque tube for them and should have them in hand in a week or 2. There was somebody that offered a venting service for them but I can not find it now. Does anyone know who it was? Guy is also going to look and see if ge has a front set as well (pretty sure he thinks he does) and would like to get all 4 done in 1 shot. Now, what do I need to know about these? Because I'm pretty sure they're unlike the 60s era setups I'm used to.

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What kind of venting? Simply drilling holes in them or something more exotic? I have 2 sets of 47 front backing plates. One with holes and one without. Won't need either set if you are interested.

 

Little more exotic than that. These were a mesh screen insert.

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Get a set of Buick finned AL drums for the 60's if you want improved fade resistance. Holes let water in during wet conditions. Scary when brake shoes are wet.

 

Haze City Spec. sells a trendy screen kit.

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I am running fins. Although mine are cast iron.

Rich that's who it was. Hot Rod did a write up on them a couple years ago.

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I remember that article with screens in the backing plates. Do a HAMB search. It should pop up.

 

Boling Brothers used to have them and I just checked their site and did not seem them. But check with them anyway.

 

Here's the kit you need and a how to.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...t-rod-restoration.847790/page-8#post-11332774

 

That shouldn't be very difficult to do yourself.

 

True; but these screens are all about looks.

Personally, I like the old time cast aluminum scoops; plus scoops can still look good without compromising the backing plate with holes that will let water in.

 

I think the Haze City guy retired and all his stuff is now sold through Walden's.

 

Alchemy I was looking and it appears his website no longer exists so I'm kinda thinking the same thing.

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It's not Rocket Science, I used M-T Products '40 Lincoln backing plates, cut a few holes, pressed/embossed stainless steel screen to fit the opening and silicone bronzed welded to inside of backing plate. Just for fun I rotated the backing plate putting the wheel cylinder on the bottom, don't like seeing the ugly brake hose hanging in the breeze. I ran the brake line along the back of the I-Beam basically out of sight.

 

Actually Rich B brought up an option I hadn't thoight about. And after a google image search I think I want to run unpolished scoops to match all the ither unpolished aluminum on the car. Does anybody happen to have a of juice backing plates cut for these and off the car? I'd like to see how they mount from the inside?

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Did you swap the backing plates side for side when you flipped them to keep the leading shoe as the leading shoe?


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Here' my old coupe

 

I found these. And I think they're what I want. And the picture I'm really looking for is a backing plate with these installed from the inside (shoe side)

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Yes and I swapped the wheel cylinders so the fittings came out to the rear and the bleeder valve was on top so the brakes could be bleed in the normal fashion...

 

OTB's scoops remind me of the bilge scoops on a boat; while the scoops the ratrod0 posted above say HOTROD.

 

There's going to be a bunch if other finned aluminum on the car (valve cover, side covers, timing cover, dash insert, all 4 brake drums) so I think they will fit in well.

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Next stupid question, does anyone know if 47 anchor pins are the same as pre 43? Or for that matter have the picture of how it all goes together with the ford part numbers on it?

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I agree. Years ago I was working on an old VW bug in the rain and the brakes wouldn't work. I was told by a VW enthusiast that the hubcaps were needed to cover the two holes in the front side of the drum to keep the water out. Since then I've been leery of drilling my backing plates even though I like the look it gives. Do you guys with drilled backing plates have problems in the rain?

 

Just for the record, Haze City is still going strong check out instagram. I bought a set of screens off him about 4 months ago.

 

I have the ones pictured. do not know where they came from any more. there was a how to in Street Rodder Magazine a few years ago on how to install them.

 

I guess I am a puss, I don't drive mine in the rain, because of no fenders. open wheeled cars are terrible in the rain, and I do not have a hood either. I would be spending all week to get it cleaned again. If it looks like rain, I take the '51 Merc. nice dry, comfortable, and warm.

 

You might be thinking about Brian Bass @ BassCustom in Dallas. He specializes in converting '40-'48 Ford backing plates to the later style braking while appearing to be "stock" flathead brakes. He might do venting, too. He is a really nice guy and does quality work. He built that beautiful, blue '34 5-W that Ass Monkey owns.

 

Holy shit ! I feel so sorry for you having to drive that old '51 in lieu of the highboy when it rains. LOL

 

It's been years (decades?) since l've worked on early Ford brakes, but as I recall, the wheel cylinder acts on both shoes, which are pivoted individually at their bottoms. The leading shoe (the one that a segment of the drum rotates toward after passing the wheel cylinder, NOT necessarily the one towards the front of the car) is still the leading shoe, after the backing plate has been rotated 180 degrees. This wouldn't matter generally, but i believe the leading ("self-energised") and trailing shoes in Ford's design have two distinct differences, specifically the lining area (length), and the wheel cylinder (stepped) area. These differences should be consider before any right to left side swapping is done.
With regard to bleed location, I think the bleed screw is on the side, so swapping upside-down cylinders from side to side doesn't improve bleedability. I could be wrong, if the cylinders have an internal passage from the cylinder top to the bleed screw.

 

Who makes the scoops on 'Ratrodo's car?