Is there any secret to adjusting valve lash while the engine is running? Everything I've read says to adjust solid lifters with the engine warm and running, but when I get the wrench on the adjusting nut it's tough to hold onto. I feel like Wyle E. Coyote on the end of a big acme spring
NO, NO, NO, NO, NO dont adjust solids with the engine running. Now tell us what engine and maybe we can help, but STOP what your doing. Definately STOP reading.
144 in a falcon. i did it hot with the motor off. I read to do it running in the ford inlines tech section read it here
Absolutely, hot with the engine off. If someone here can tell me you actually adjust solids with the engine RUNNING, I will be the first to humbly apologize. I will have learned something and will totally admitt I was wrong.
I always adjusted my 170 (63 Merc) with it running. I took an old valve cover and cut out the center to keep the oil from leaking. Its a little tricky to hang on to the rocker but once you get the hang of it its goes quick. (ps: the trick was to lower the idle) My BB chevelle and SBC in my dirt modified were always done with the engine off and warm
I would never do it that way, but I'm a man of my word, I humbly apologize. { tail is inserted between legs }
Adjusting them hot with engine off is usually what I do. I've done it running before with solids and hot; but it's a bit messy, slightly more difficult, and not quite as accurate as when they're not moving... at least that's what I found for a 260 Ford V8 in my 63 Fairlane 500. Course it helps how fast your idle is, like Rick said. It's easily possible.
i'll give it a shot with the idle dropped. If i still feel like i'm on the end of a boomerang, i'll just shut the damn thing off ;P
Start engine and warm it up fully, then set idle speed to as slow as it will keep running. Remove rocker cover. I use a 3/8 drive flex handle and 12 point socket because that seems to stay on the moving rocker better than an end wrench. Often, when you insert the feeler gauge, the engine will kill. Be patient, start it back up and continue.
Most of those recommendations were probably intended for the Corvette solid lifter cams. The adjustment wrench was on the rocker pivot nut and not the end of the rocker arm. I still have my special clips that snapped on the rocker tip for adjusting the valves while keeping from spraying oil all over the engine compartment. Others have modified valve covers to stop the spray but allow access with the feeler gauge and wrench.
One way to adjust valves; with the motor fully warmed up, stop it and remove all the spark plugs. Turn the motor with a socket on the crankshaft bolt, always turn the motor clockwise. Set intake when same cylinders exhaust starts to open. Set exhaust when same cylnders intake just closes. Mark the finished ones with chaulk. Glue a new gasket to the cover, then spray the exposed side with WD40. It can then be used several times if not overtightened. This method may not work on engines with a wild cam, stockers are fine.
Man thats a new one. After checking that reference it seems to me the captions are swapped. After some thought I can see what Tommy is talking about with regard to the adjustment on the rocker pivot nut, but an engine like my old Y-block would be impossible. Seems like it would be alot easier just to get it hot and shut it off. My dos pesos.
You can also adjust those cold... Find out what the clearances are at a cold setting the day after you had that oil bath and write down on a piece of paper what those clearances are and stash it in your glove box!.... Next time you re-adjust your rockers, pull out that piece of paper and adjust the lifters to those settings.. You might not even get you hands dirty..
Yea I've always adjusted them with the engine running. Its not too difficult once you get the wrench on there.
That's the way I would do my 327 vette solid lifter motor back in the 60's. Running with the clips. I have done my 427 fe soild lifter warm and not running.
Adjusting valves when it was running was a standard on GM and Chryslers for years. It takes a bit of getting used to but if your set up to do it and not get oil all over it works great. Dale
The only thing that should be learned from this thread is this, if your a newbie, ask yourself, did I give anywhere near, even remotely near enough information to ask this next question and post a thread. Did you just ask this forum , " uh what engine is in my car????????????, uh what is the wheelbase of my car??????????? uh what spark plugs go in my engine?????????????. I'll admit I was a dumbass for just assuming this guy had a SBC or something similiar. Never assume, it just makes a ass out of you and me
Its always real easy to figure out the young guys on here. I know LOTS of old timers that adjust them hot and running. Its not my method of choice, but its perfectly valid. Its alot easier on engines like SBC and SBF that are adjusted off the stud than engines that are adjusted off the rocker. I do them with the engine hot but off, and I use two feeler gauges and a go-no-go method. Cold is wrong, its only to get the engine running, they should always be re-set hot.
I've only been setting valves 40 years so I'm kinda new, but I've always set them warm but not running. When the intake fully opens and starts to close, set the exhaust. When the exhaust is almost fully open, set the intake. Works on Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Harley, Massey Ferguson etc. Can't figure out why you would set solids running. Hyd. is a different subject. Before I knew about lifter preload I would set them running (and make a freekin mess). I now set hyd. lifters watching the valves open/close then zero lash plus .030"-.050" preload. Bolt the valve covers on and forget it.
Back in the day, when all we had was a six in chevy's, they recommended setting them hot & running. I still have the special wrench that has a hand wheel and a square to put on the sockett, making it a little easier. Also still have a set of feeler gauges that the valve stems/rockers beat the hell out of from setting them running. And yes they recommended setting the "duntov" hot & running too. We found out tho' that the rockers liked to piss oil over everything when setting them running, so we set them hot but not running.
My mind can see a possible advantage in setting engines with a pivot ball while running, but I can't wrap my mind around an advantage when setting a rocker shaft engine while running... other than possibly saving a few minutes..... Someone tell me WHY setting solid lifter valves while the engine is running provides an advantage over static adjustment. (That is a genuine question, not a smart ass question, I want to learn!!!)
Well, the story is (I'm not saying I do or dont accept this, and I'm not going to get into a debate over it, its just what I have been told) that as soon as the engine is shut off, the valves that are closed will dissipate enough heat through the valve seats that it will affect the accuracy of the setting. I set them hot with the engine off for two reasons, 1) most of the engines I have run over the years had shaft mounted rockers and its just too difficult, so I got into the habit of doing it with the engine off early on & 2) hot and running is just too damn messy.
Yeah mine was a 327-340 hp. I'll be honest and tell you I don't know the theory. I was young and did what the experienced racers told me and showed me what to do. I do know that it was common knowledge that HP solid lifter Corvettes were done this way. So much so that there were several tool makers that made different design clips to stop the spray when adjusting them while running. It must have been in a manual somewhere. I don't think they made tools just for grins. It was a short lived practice because the L-79 hydraulic cam came out in 65 and soon over took the solid lifter cams. Prior to that hydraulics were not considered performance cams.
P&G valve gapper would go "either way." http://www.box.net/shared/qvzpcuka13#/shared/qvzpcuka13/1/18557736/195319916/1 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281971 Ed puts P&G to the test, using engine off adjustment. http://www.dragracingonline.com/technical/camsession/ii_4.html adjustable hydraulics usually need to be done running. Common for small blocks is Back off until it clicks slightly (lifter fully extended) then crank in one turn (mid travel) for stock engines, or some fraction of a turn to make a hot engine more tolerant of valve float. A high school buddy severely over revved his brand new 383 Formula S Barracuda showing off to a car full of friends. It ran real rough and he shut it off while we were discussing how he'd blown the engine and what to do next. When he tried to start it a little later it ran fine, since the over-extended hydrualic lifters had then bled down and allowed the valves to seat again.
thats how my dad taught me and thats how the US Army taught him back in '38. i've used his tools and methods for most of my 57 years .......3% rule applys.......[pic not actual valve tools]
X2 Adjusting solids running is the same as running the engine with no valve clearance. If you're lucky you'll only bend a push rod and not a valve.
Ah, I get it now. I REALLY didnt think this needed explanation, but now I get what these guys are babbling about. When you set them hot and running, you use a feeler gauge, you dont zero lash them like a hydraulic...
I guess until you have done this, or seen it done, its a little difficult to get your head around. Even at a slow idle, the valve is cycling so rapidly, you dont really "feel" the time that the valve is open in the sense of the feeler gauge being "grabbed", if you know what I am saying. I did it a couple times on my sbf 35 years ago, but it was such a goddam mess with oil all over the headers, I gave up on it pretty quick. It was just more grief than it was worth IMO. The 327 I am presently building for my Chevy II has roller rockers and the oil to the top end is restricted, maybe when I get it running, I will do it and video the results, if the oil mess isnt too bad. Oh, and if you are calculating your piston/valve clearance by adding the lash in you are heading for a serious calamity...
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