So me and my other half are playing around with the idea of doing our own furniture upholstery, and with that being able to do car interiors. It would also be nice to mess around with some garments like wallets and the like. I know what to look for at a basic level, but was hoping someone could help me out in recommending the right machine. I'm past the "get a commercial, walking foot juki." I've got that. Where I'm at is which one? At what point do you need a long arm? Are there any parts in the interior that prevent being worked on without a long arm? Can you get a 2 needle unit that does overlock? (Overlock is the thing that sews the end of a fabric into a nice end stitch right?) Which machines will do piping? I guess I'm looking for the most versatile unit that we can use that will handle all the toughness that automotive brings into the fold. Or wondering if that puts you in a situation where you really need two machines, an upholstery machine, and a garment machine. Appreciate any insight here, I really didn't want to talk to a sewing machine salesmen because I feel like they're always going to lean away from auto stuff, even if they understand it, I don't think they'll have the same opinions many of the people on here will have. And I think your opinions are very valuable. If there's a lot of models here that fit, I'm really looking for one to pick up used and has good support for. That's what drew me to Juki, they seem to be the ticket. Thanks!
I've had a Juki for over 35 years and it's a good machine, just keep it well oiled and clean, I have never needed a long arm machine doing cars or furniture. overlock stiching is for clothing, not cars or furniture Juki has a welt foot that attaches to the machine and will do all the welting / piping you'll need, just make sure to buy a machine with a walking foot. Check the archives for a number of forums on sewing and machine's ................
My choice is pfaff , but there are others that work. The welting is sewn by all of them , you need welt feet. Double needle isn't needed. I had a singer double needle long arm that I sold because I didn't use it enough. I have used pfaff 145 for 50 years and there has been very little need of outside help to keep it going.
I started out 60 years ago using a Singer 16-188....Have had a Consew 225 for the past 50 years..Neither of them had a reverser. I dont think ay my stage in sewing,that I could get used to a reverser...I will add ,however.that I have custom made some presser feet to do a special job, such as covering windlace or the worst of all,is sunvisors...Any machine will need a tune up from time to time... I wish I still had the old Singer 16-188 but lost it in a shop fire back in 1970..
I started on a Singer 111W about 60 years ago. Couldn't afford one for myself so when I started doing it in my garage I bought a used Consew 226 which has a walking foot and reverser. It was plenty good for doing occasional jobs. It was not a long arm but I have done many full width bench seats in tuck and roll. Takes some time and gets tight but can be done. Parts are plentiful on the bay for all sorts of feet for different size welting. I sold mine for $400 and it was in excellent shape.
wow i just bought a singer 16-88 this month!! got a good deal too. i have always wanted a walking foot machine to do my interiors. this doesn't have a reverser either but, i think it isn't all that needed anyway. i looked up this model on line and it was made in 1917. it's in great shape and sews great. i do know there are leather sewing machines. i looked at a tacsew leather machine but went with the singer.
Flatheadgary...you do know that you should use a diamond point needle for sewing leather?? Thats about the only difference that I know of..
One word ................Adler I would rather sew with a 30 year old Alder than a new Juki or Brother. An overlocker is a totally different animal but not necessary. You can prevent fraying by cutting fabrics with a hot knife The Adler will do piping great [ any walking foot will] , you need to cut the outer foot so you can sew close to the edge. I had a left and right foot cut. [also good for sewing bulk ropes on awnings ] You won't need a long arm unless you want to make Marquees. Everything is adjustable on an adler eg: stitch length, foot pressure, upper and lower thread tension, feed dog heights and if you want to use a fine needle and thread the hooks can be adjusted across so the machine doesn't miss a stitch. Luckily I can repair sewing machines so this is easy for me.
I bought an old Consew 206 two years ago and after reading a few books I have the basics down. It has reverse and walking foot and I have found web sites that sell any spare part needed as well as different presser feet to sew piping. As far as twin needle I don't think I would ever need the application. You can make an incredibly strong seam by just laying two pieces face to face and run a seam about an inch in from the edge. Now turn it over and place a piece of material as backing under the seam and align the edge of the presser foot with the first seam and run the stitch parallel to the first seam. Now do the same thing and align the presser foot with the first seam and run the second seam parallel to the first seam. It will look exactly like a twin needle and with the backing sewn through all three pieces you have a seam strong enough to use along the edges of high stress places that won't tear.
I have a Juki Walking foot machine and am happy with it. One thing I did wish I has was a servo controlled motor. it would be nice to have a little more control with the speed as I am a beginner and don't often do much sewing.
Call Ron at Quality Industrial Sewing In Grand Island Nebraska (800-431-0032) He's been selling upholstery sewing machines to hot rodders for over 20 years. Used to work lots of NSRA and Goodguys shows. He's semi retired now but still selling machines. He won't try and sell you more than you need and he has service after the sale.
I just bought a Singer 111W155, can't wait to play with it. I did a little research before I got this one, and think will it work for Upholstery?
The 111W155 was made for high volume upholstery. Go on line a google search for an operators manual, they are free and very useful. Keep it oiled. If it has a clutch type motor you may want to put a smaller drive pulley on the motor to slow it down some. It will fly with the stock pulley on the motor. This machine does not have reverse so you will need to learn how to lock your stitches. A servo motor would be a good investment if you like the machine, if not wait until you find the machine you like then if it doesn't have a servo motor put one on. They are relatively inexpensive and you can fin them on evil bay.
I just bought a Juki LU-562 yesterday for $600. That's a decent price around here, good walking foot machines don't come up that much. I REALLY wanted an Adler, but I watched Craigslist for 6 months, never saw one around here. And shipping a sewing machine is $$$. I haven't done any of this stuff in about 35 years, so I am going to hit the local thrift stores and buy some old leather jackets, cut them up, and practice sewing some pleats.
I am a newbie when it come to upholstery, actually just finished my first complete interior. I took some classes at the local community college and all they had was Juki DNU 1541. So I found a used Juki DNU 1541S. The S is for the servo motor which I really like as a beginner. And I LOVE it!
I did a tech on doing things my cheep way,an it also clovers the right one,;http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-sew-at-home-upholsrety-hot-rod.604077/
I wanted a PFAFF 545 but I ended up with a nice CONSEW 206RB-4 for $300 with a ..... these kinda of machines are the standard of the industry, they are all COPIES of the SINGER 111 walking foot w reverse. When the patent was only good in the USA, everyone in Japan and Germany made a great copy of a great machine. Bullet proof design. I've fold a leather belt 3 times until it was just over 3/8" thick and the machine went right through that, no problem.
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