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Technical Unknown points conversion

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shawnsauto1, May 19, 2017.

  1. Does this look familiar to anyone? My stock 63 rambler died last fall and now it's running. Pretty sure I lost spark. Anyone know what I have here?[​IMG]


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    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Looks like an older Pertronix kit with that breaker plate.
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  3. Has to be over ten years minimum.
    With the random dying I thought I might want to have a replacement on hand.
    Maybe I should find the vendor on the HAMB?
    I'm sure there's no one in Canada selling these?


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  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pertronix?

    Paging @hotroddon
     

  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,989

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Electronic conversion at any rate.
     
  6. gimpyshotrods and upspirate like this.
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,089

    squirrel
    Member

    find a stock point distributor to get some parts from, and fix it back how it was designed to be....
     
    54vicky, bedwards and theHIGHLANDER like this.
  8. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,415

    Fordors
    Member

    Stock breaker plate will be in there, you should be able to remove the Petronix components and add points and condenser for your Rambler application. When you take the electronics out you will need to add a new wire from the coil to points. If your cap and rotor are on good shape run them.
     
    zbuickman and dr_gonzo like this.
  9. I do like points. Have them in the flathead. This was in the car when I got it ten years ago.


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  10. Cap and rotor are good. Will the coil still be ok? It's a 1.5 ohm aftermarket coil.


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  11. Wow. My local Napa store has the points and condenser in stock. Maybe I'll run those for the weekend.
    Hope the coil will work ok.


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  12. You will either need a 3 ohm coil or a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor

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  13. Thanks. But the pertronix uses a 1.5 without ballast? How much are replacements?


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  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The trigger looks like a 1181. They are about $80/USD.

    A ballast resistor is ~$6-$18/USD.

    A NAPA 1.5-ohm ballast resistor is: ECH ICR108.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2017
  15. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,415

    Fordors
    Member

    I forgot about the clamp for the condenser, you will need to round one up.
     
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  17. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,415

    Fordors
    Member

    You are good to go, it is not always supplied.
     
  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,089

    squirrel
    Member

    It's the tiny screw that holds the clamp on, that usually drives me crazy trying to find one
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  19. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I keep a few spares jammed inside the bottom of most distributors I work on.
     
  20. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,264

    theHIGHLANDER
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    Nobody mentioned the reluctor wheel. Fairly certain that something went in place of the cam that bumps the points. Yes? No? Tape?
     
  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No. The reluctor wheel on this model is bolted on under the rotor, on the same screws that hold the rotor down:
    [​IMG]
    You can see it as the black ring, under the brown rotor. See how the fasteners come up from below, and not down from the top?

    The point cam is still there, just going along for the ride.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  22. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,264

    theHIGHLANDER
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    Awesome gimpy, forgot about that. Makes his swap-over all the easier.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yup. I does not even need to come out, as far as I know. It can stay in until the next rotor change.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  24. Yep. It's all there except the little screw.

    Thanks again guys. Really appreciate the advise.


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  25. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,220

    sunbeam
    Member

    If you put a test light on the negative terminal of the coil it should blink when cranking
     
    hattrick150 likes this.

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