TURKEY CALL!! novembers 4-banger meeting

I make the threads close enough that they don't leak I use no sealant on the threads as I do not want the extra drag interfering with the "feel". If you can't feel the contact how are you going to adjust it? Maybe that is why some are concerned with causing a leak at the rear I have pulled the small cover off but I like my current method better. I can't stand the way that some people slop gasket sealer and or maker all over the place. I still use Permatex # 2 primarily.

 

Another 8 port, This is from the add. I can't seem to post it any smaller. You won't need your reading glasses.

 

ok, so heres my question for everyone, tore my engine down and fond this. I belive there is suppost to be a drain back tube off the rear main cap, but this has a tube that is pretty thick walled, like a restirctor or something. Am I right, am I wrong? This engine was HIGHLY modified so I really do not know if this is all added or factory.
Second, what is the point of this, and should I run it (if it is an add-on?)

Thanks all!

 

looks like real fine print to me I cant read it
Ken

 

Seems like PA and Sarpsborg have the same problem ... Our first day of frost turned up a few days ago ...
Will try to get this B-banger run asap
Klaz

 

PST properly applied will not reduce your ''Feel'' you can put it on the lock nut and it only takes little. If your set-up doesn't leak then don't use it

Hylomar is not something you "glop on" and unlike silicone it doesn't block oil passages and such.

My suggestions are just that "suggestions" take them or not

 

I had started another thread but it got buried so I'll ask on this one. I'm looking for ballpark spec figures for OH conversion on an A engine. Looking for a difference between the OHV and DOHC. I starting to work on my design, which began with a similarity to the HAL DOHC, but I'm thinking that time to come a casting - the OHV head will be easier to cast. But DOHC cooler and possibly better performing. Decision breaker will be if there a big HP difference between the two in favor of the DOHC.

Synapsis - I am taking my 29 A, and modifying it for more streetable use (I could drive sanely on a highway). I want to keep the four, increase its compression and HP, but not to a degree it degrades reliability greatly. I don't want go into all my plans for it right now, but I am also trying to keep the techniques relatively time period specific. And in case there is argument with my thought train - I am a Mechanical engineer, am aware of weak points, and am working on the design myself to address the somewhat unique criteria. Not looking for criticism, but am more than welcoming to constructive input.

 

spitfire
do you have access to a milling machine?

maybe you could make some prototypes by milling out and laping pieces together to create whatever head you want?
then if you can get something that you like and performs well...go from there to have it cast?
i think someone else made heads like this?

 

My comment was directed to those who seem to think that the new silicone type sealants will cure all sorts of mismatched or poorly assembled engine parts. I have, in the past, assembled engines with no sealants what so ever. Sometimes a light coating of a GP grease will do. I have tried the highly touted Hylomar to seal a solid copper head gasket with no luck. I went back to a composition gasket with wires and it held the best. This was with 10 to 1 compression.I have a 4 port engine that was glued together with some sort of orange silicone that literally dripped from every gasket. And I bought it cheap because it still leaked both water and oil. My remarks are and were about this sort of condition. These are my opinions and comments, take them or not, I do not lurk in the shadows and leap out to sharpshoot someone else's comments. I only share my experiences hoping to help others gain knowledge and not make the mistake's that I have made or read about.

 

http://burlingtoncrankshaft.com/
This link may be of interest to some interested in new crankshafts, a little pricey but it's only a hobby.

 

Hey, you A/B guys, weren't mid '30s Pontiac six cylinder rods a high performance upgrade for those engines? Someone's auctioning a reconditioned set. Ebay #280152415389.

 

TRUE BULLSEYE FROM A FNG

 

Guys,....I had heard from a friend that they were repoducing the Winfield CAST IRON heads along with the Aluminum heads,.....is this true? I've been trying to find out,..OR find a good usable original Winfield 7:1 head to use,..found two that were completely unrepairable!!

Anyone have a contact number for whomever is reproducing the Winfield heads?? Thanks

 

Aluminum for sure... sells by Reds-Headers. 6:1 and 7:1. Very friendly to do business with.

 

I just bought my aluminum Winfield from Red's. They now only have 6:1 and 6:8, or at least thats what the guy who I ordered from told me.

 

The Aluminum repop Winfield heads were or are made by Antique Automotive Industries or Specialty Ford Parts In Rosemead Ca. Haven't heard of any cast iron, They may have the patterns.

 

Just in case any of you didn't notice, Sawracer has some cool Banger T-shirts for sale in the classifieds (misc. section).
Got mine today and I'm now the best-dressed guy 'round these parts!

 

That may be the case but you do live in Birmingham after all.

 

Arf!

 

Not anymore.

 

hey bud,..you runnin an aluminum thomas head there on yer coupe?...looks good bud!!

 

thanks bill,...thanks guys,...yeah i didnt think so,....my buddy felt sure that they were being made again though so I thought i'd shoot it out there,....
thanks boys!!

 

also call H&H, they usually have some Winfields available.

 

William Nielson wrote-
"I have tried the highly touted Hylomar to seal a solid copper head gasket with no luck. I went back to a composition gasket"

I just can't see how a solid copper gasket is going to seal the head/block joint unless both surfaces are lapped together. As I see it, the value of any gasket is in the fact that it will compress a bit, and take up the small variations in the space between parts. No way is enough force created by the 7/16" diameter Ford head stud/nuts to compress the large surface area of the gasket. Yapp tried it with his repro F heads, now I see he is offering a composition gasket. Has anyone out there been successful with a solid copper gasket, using the surfaces created by modern auto rebuilding shop machines?


I have an engine that I lapped the block/ head joint, but machined the top of the block to take (rubber) O rings around the water passages, runs fine with no gasket, but don't know that I would want to go through the process again, as the lapping is a giant PITA

I have to think that solid copper will work only where there is a very small area of contact, relative to the clamping force (some diesels and motorcycles).

My opinion only- anyone with experience- pro or con?

Herb Kephart

 

I picked up a Cyclone aluminum banger flathead head recently; any idea of it's compression? were these heads common or popular to use?

 

I haven't heard this one before...Anyone try this?

 

I think that using 1936 Pontiac rods in 'bangers is mentioned in Dean Batchelor's book. That's all I know about it, though.

-Dave

 

The photos that I have seen published years ago, showed the Pontiac rods had a larger big end that a B, and mentioned that a split sleeve had to be welded or brazed into the rod, then babbitted. What was not mentioned was that the outside size of the big end must have been larger also. There isn't a whole lot of extra space in the B block in regard to the cam/rod and the rod/block clearance.

Also common was "plating" the rods, welding a piece on each side of the open part of the I beam, giving a square tube, with a center strut. Even knew an old timer who told me that he had taken two rods, cut one side of each even with the I beam at the wrist pin, and the big end. Lined the two up with a pin in each end and ran a weld bead the length of the beams,where they touched on each side. next was to cut the top and bottom of the weldment to the stock width, and rebabbitt. This gave a rod with a four bolt cap, bullet proof, but heavy. The French have an expression, which translates to "brutal, but it works".

Herb Kephart

 

Wico mag update, I have 2 Wico magnetos 1 has a spec # XV1509, the other has a spec# XVD2339, I received an email from Steve at Mainly Magnetos and he informed me that the XV1509 was the old Number and it had been changed to XVD2339 and they were both the same as to lag angle. They both have a lag angle of 9 degrees. For those who missed my earlier post, this means if you set the impulse timing at TDC you will have 9 degrees advance after the Impulse is released.
Old tach's. Back in the day Mallory and others made distributors for the Ford "A"'s and "B"'s with a mechanical drive for tach's. These were made into the late "80"'s or early "90"'s on special order. I 'm not positive but I don't think they had after market electronic Type tachs before 1945. If so it would be a Sun tach. A distributor with a tach drive is available from Mallory but is for engines such as the Triumph Tr4 or 6 and is an electronic type at $400+. I recently purchased an older small Delco with a tach drive that I plan on converting to electronic with a Pertronix kit and adapting it to an "A" engine so I can use a mechanical drive tach

 

Bill

I just got a Kodak moment on a vacuum tube powered tach made in the 30's........ that would look pretty strange too large for ''in car''

I have a 1941 Allen analizer with an electric tach but I don't think there were ''In car'' units